Restoring My New (to me) 1967 Bug

[67ctbug]

I’ve got a question. On a ‘67, are there bolts holding the body to the chassis under the rear seat? I’ve got two under the gas tank, two at the rear shock towers, but where I think there should be some in the car there is nothing. If I jack the car up there is space for them, but the holes were filled over at the factory with sealer.
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'67 Beetle L41
'74 Westfalia
'69 Plymouth "Adam-12"
'63 Ragtop
'73 914
'72 Dodge Wrecker
Go Cubs!
World Series Champions 2016

[Jos.Hall]

Should be 4-13mm

[Jos.Hall]

Should be.....

2 under the gas tank
18 under the body
4 under the rear seat
2 on the rear shock mount.

[67ctbug]

[Jos.Hall]

yep

[Jos.Hall]

It's probably too late to help ya but I just made this up because I couldn't find one quickly.

[67ctbug]

[EA812]

I think there are two more under the back seat going into the top of the torsion tube. I bolted the seat belts to them.

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Project 66 Daily Driver http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=538786&highlight=
Herbie build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=336044

[67ctbug]

[EA812]

Maybe the cross members have been replaced? Possibly the holes were never there leaving that step up to the person replacing them.
_________________
Project 66 Daily Driver http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=538786&highlight=
Herbie build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=336044

[67ctbug]

[REDKAFER]

The two that are covered over by the factory were only used on the convertible model for purposes of stiffness. While redoing my 67, i unplugged these holes and used them. I notice no difference, however its possible that the additional mounting points are detrimental during temperature changes so if I were to do it over again I would leave them sealed instead of letting my OCD get the best of me.

[EA812]

[viiking]

Aren't the rear outboard seat belt bolt holes in the vertical plane between the B and C pillars low down almost at the heater channel? That's where my seat belts attach.
_________________
1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[REDKAFER]

In 1967 USA (read:deluxe) market type 1's, rear outboard seat belt holes are under the bottom-most radius of the fiberboard paneling - i.e. they mount to the wall of the car rather than "under" the seat. Outside of that specific market though, when it comes to cars sold in other countries or at other trim levels YMMV.

[EA812]

[67ctbug]

Yeah I'm just gonna leave them covered. I plan on priming the car Thursday. I need a little help with this though, how do I adjust the front door gap? It gets really tight toward the top and I wanna fix this if I can. Unless this is because the loose hinge.

_________________
'67 Beetle L41
'74 Westfalia
'69 Plymouth "Adam-12"
'63 Ragtop
'73 914
'72 Dodge Wrecker
Go Cubs!
World Series Champions 2016

[REDKAFER]

There are several adjustments you can make regarding the door alignment. Mainly however, there are three points of contact.

The first two are the obvious hinges. Loosening these screws takes a #4 phillips and lots of muscle. They just loosen a bit, dont remove these completely. Once loose, they allow for aligning how flush the door is with its surrounding panels and a little vertical adjustment.

The third point of contact is the striker. This is the bit by your left elbow when sitting in the drivers seat with the door open. THIS is the thing you're looking for. It should have a black rubber ramp on it which aligns the door as its closed - sometimes these are lost with time.

Loosening the #2 phillips screws here allows a very small amount of up/down and side/side adjustment. A VERY SMALL AMOUNT IS ALL YOU NEED! If you move this striker down, it will open up the body gap at your top hinge a bit. Because your body hinge needs to open up about 1/8 inch, you only need to move the striker down about 1/16 inch.

I'm guessing based on the photo. Trial and error works wonders in this case, or get silly and do the trigonometry.

Bug on.

[67ctbug]

[REDKAFER]

okay, so lets try the contrapositive: loosen both hinges and move them both straight up. Check to see how much clearance you have between the top of the door and the rain gutter first. Use shims on the door sill to help keep it steady when you tighten it all back down.