Omni epoxy primer any good?

[Matthew Tolbert]

I’ve searched and found mixed reviews on the Omni line of epoxy primers. Most of the threads are a few years old so I’m looking for more recent experiences if possible. I am wanting to start stripping my car to bare metal and apply some sort of epoxy primer as a base to protect the metal while I’m doing any repairs. Is the more expensive DP line worth getting at twice the price?

I also want to mimic the factories method of dark grey, then light grey/white (it’s hard to tell which color it is) then color. The paint store I went to opened a can of the Omni grey and it was a little lighter than the factory dark grey primer. I thought about getting a can of black also to mix in to darken it up a bit. Has anyone tried this before? Do you have a “mix ratio” you think is a close match? I’ve read the tech sheets and it says it CAN NOT be tinted but can be mixed. Also If you have any tips or tricks you can share that might help would be great.
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Matthew Tolbert
1958 ragtop
1961 doublecab
1965 Notchback S

[56reddy]

Omni epoxy primer is garbage. I’ve found that Southern Polyurethane incorporated (SPI) makes a great epoxy primer for $200 for two sprayable gallons. I base every paint job on this epoxy. You can get it online shipped to you. Also they are located in GA.
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New Vintage Specialist.
1974 ghia convertible
1981 Vanagon Westfalia
Making VW’s Fun Again.(MVFA)

[Matthew Tolbert]

Thanks for the information. Just curious what you feel is wrong with it? I’ll look into SPI
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Matthew Tolbert
1958 ragtop
1961 doublecab
1965 Notchback S

[56reddy]

Omni epoxy is very watery and doesn’t cover near as well as the SPI epoxy. If you decide to go with SPI get the tech book and it explains how to use the SPI system.
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New Vintage Specialist.
1974 ghia convertible
1981 Vanagon Westfalia
Making VW’s Fun Again.(MVFA)

[Matthew Tolbert]

Good info. You have any insight to my other questions regarding trying to match the factories process?
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Matthew Tolbert
1958 ragtop
1961 doublecab
1965 Notchback S

[Igpoe]

Use a complete system is my recommendation.
If you like ppg paint then use their primers and sealers underneath so that if problems arise the factory reps can understand and help with a solution. If you
Mix products from suppliers, poor results will follow.

[Kiper]

I have used several different ones. Unfortunately in Southern California we have strict laws on what we can and cannot use. I use to use PPG's "DP" series epoxy for all of my bare metal cars. Now I just use a quality DTM or " Direct to Metal primer for all the bodywork. The one I use the most of is made by Vintage. It is a polyester hybrid that works great on bare metal and body filler.
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I am Matt K.

[Flat4BRM]

Omni primer user here...

56reddy, not sure what problems you've ran into that makes you think Omni is "too watery", but I've personally shot gallons of the stuff with no issues. Guess it's all a personal preference. I also used to shoot PPG's "DP" line (DP40 Gray-Green was my favorite, but the DP401LF stuff WAS TERRIBLE) before it was discontinued, and the Omni stuff seems to do the job decently. It can be shot as a sealer (2:1:2 base/ hardener/ reducer) or a filler primer (2:1:1) which is a nice detail, if you're not looking to buy separate materials. I'm sure others have had bad experiences with Omni... but I'd figure I'd support it here

Regardless of what you shoot, I agree that you should stick with one system / manufacturer for all your substrates & final paint. Less chances of having a substandard paint job....
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- Most car projects are like stray dogs..you want to keep them all and never let any of them go.

- Built, not bought.

- Street is neat...support your local street rodders!

1966 L41 113 | 1965 L456 151 | 1963 L380 113 | 1954 L227 113 | 1949 L51 11A

[Evil_Fiz]

I have also heard many good things about SPI. I had a conversation with their tech support personnel and they were extremely helpful.

Two separate options have been expressed in this thread. One is the use of SPI (or third party EPOXY/DTM primer) under every paint job and the other is to go with a complete product system. Option two is self explanatory but option one prompts me to ask the following questions:

@56reddy:
- What product line do you use to complement the SPI base?
- Can you share your process for the less experienced among us?

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Emil
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“…It's not just about what's interesting. It's also about what's helpful, and it's helpful even if it helps just one other guy working on a Ghia.”
kiwighia68

See my build on TheSamba at:
The K_R_A_K_E_N_N : a 70 Ghia Convertible reinterpreted

[56reddy]

[gbfan10]

Painted my truck with all omni products, Epoxy primer, omni base and omni clear. this was 7 years ago, and it still looks great.
I've also used SPI with good results as well.

[swelchy]

I shoot omni on a regular basis... no complaints or issues here and it is a ppg product...
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1969 Westy 1915cc 044 heads 94 bore 69 stroke scatCWcrank scat lifters C25 cam straight cam gears 1:25 ratio rockers CB weber idf 40's vintage speed sport exhaust.