’70 Baja Build Thread – The Long Road to La Paz

[Scott SD]

Hello everyone. This is the start of my build thread for a ’70 Baja. I should have started this awhile ago, but better late than never. Brief intro, my name is Scott and I live in east county San Diego. I’ve been addicted to VWs since July of ’86 when I was 10 years old and read a VW Trends mag. I bought the ’70 as a shell, had it caged, and then it sat outside for 10 years while life happened (wife, house, kids, etc). Up until this point I have only worked on cal-lookers, so wrenching on a baja is unexplored territory for me. But so far, I like it. Everything is so accessible. Much easier than trying to torque down IDAs on my ’67.

My objective with this car is to prerun the 1000 to La Paz with my son when he is old enough. I plan to build it to be as rock solid reliable as possible….based on the budget. It will not be a full on prerunner with 12” of travel, more of a capable baja with the ability to play in the desert and drive it to work occasionally.

My hope is that this build thread will push me to get into the garage and make progress. Lately I’ve been more “off-road” motivated because I started helping a friend with his 5/1600 car. I’ve helped prep the car and pitted once, and will keep helping at the races when possible. My first “test” ride in his car was awesome. It scared me and made me wanting more.

With my ’70 the first step is to get it legal. When I bought it, I just got a bill of sale and the original pink slip from the 80s. I brought it to the DMV and they said the paperwork was in order, but to get a title and plates I will need to bring it in for a roadworthiness inspection. I want to do the minimum just to get it titled and plated.

My next post will be on the engine and trans. Here are a few pics of how the car sits today.

[dirtkeeper]

looks like a good start. never seen those rims before are they vw?

[Scott SD]

They are Mahle 4 lug gas burners. Factory wheel for 914s I think. When they are paint detailed, they are one of the best looking 4 lug wheels for a street car IMO. I put them on the front to start cycling the front suspension.

[Scott SD]

Drivetrain
I built most of the drivetrain with parts I had. Like most VW guys, I have a few extra VW parts. The trans is a “temporary” box. Nothing more permanent than a temporary solution?? I rebuilt a late IRS box with only a few internal improvements. Stock gearing, 4.12G R&P, and Thing output flanges. I will see how it drives before I figure out a permanent solution.

The engine is mild, but a well built 1641. Stock internals, stock weight flywheel, 8 doweled, all balanced, Brothers unported 40X35.5 heads, W110, CB straight cuts, swivel feet, 8.3:1, Weber 40 IDF. On start-up it I did the cam break in procedure even though the cam was used. I’ve never tuned a single Weber before so it was kind of a struggle. It needed a 0.65 idle jet, a small hole drilled in each of the butterflies, and to adjust the accelerator pump. It is good enough for now. I like the sound of the Flowmaster HP muffler. In the next few days I will pull the rockers off until the car is ready for the road. Future plans are to install a manifold heat system, a muffler support bracket, ceramic coat the exhaust, a better air filter system, and maybe an ignition upgrade.

Next post is on rear suspension where I need to leverage some knowledge from you guys.

[Scott SD]

Rear Suspension
Currently working on the rear suspension and have a few questions. I am planning to use all stock stuff for now, boxed arms, torsions, double spring plates and retainers. When the car is off the jack stands some day I will reindex the torsions to have a level ride height with the Thing front beam. The car already has a King Kong adjuster, which I think it for more fine adjustments. My thought is to get everything installed so I can cycle the suspension to check the CVs, and then install the shock mounts.

Questions I have are:
1. Any reason not to use stock retainers and spring plates?
2. With the double spring plates is it only necessary to notch the inner plate?
3. How much should I notch?
4. If I notch the plates too much will it cause adverse handling or is it only to protect the CVs?

Thanks for the help. Your opinions are very much appreciated.

I spent some time today organizing parts, blasting, and painting.

[Mike E.]

[Scott SD]

Thanks! I want my kids to be involved and learn mechanics. My son watched some of the engine assembly, start-up, and got to hit the starter button a few times.

Plan is to use Type 4 CVs, but I am still searching for a set. I have Thing output flanges and Empi stub axles.

[mkparker]

This guy is very good to deal with. I've used his 944 CVs on to lifted Class 11 Style Bugs.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1593386
_________________
Michael


Pit Boy 6163 Spec Trophy Truck

[Scott SD]

[Scott SD]

CV Joints

Gentlemen, I would very much appreciate some input on CV joints. I had a greasy weekend in the garage. Last week I found a 944 guy in San Diego and bought 4 complete early axles for $80. I was hoping to strip them down and to get 4 good CVs and 2 usable CVs for an extra axle to carry in the baja. After a lot of frustration to get the circlips off and 1 complete roll of paper towel….I got everything disassembled, cleaned, and inspected. I verified that all are Type 4/944 CVs. 6 CVs still had the original grease while 2 were rebuilt at some point. This is my first time trying to inspect and rebuild CVs, so I’m not really sure what is acceptable wear.

Outer rings - 3 are good, 2 OK for the extra axle, and 3 are junk.
Stars - 4 good, 4 junk
Cages - Some of the cages look like new, while others have some kind of staining

Questions:
1) What is considered acceptable wear on the outer ring and star? No galling or pitting?

2) How do the cages wear? Some cages required a screwdriver to pop out the ball, while others were loose. I measured the balls with dial calipers and they are the same (good excuse to buy a micrometer).

This week I will get 2 more CVs from the 944 guy. I know some believe that CVs should be scientifically disassembled, reassembling every ball in the same position. This definitely won’t happen. I will have to mix and match. When I have enough parts to make 2 good complete axles I am planning to do a low pressure media blast and polish the ball surfaces on the outer ring & star.

Please let me know what you guys think. Am I on the right track? Thanks in advance.

[dustymojave]

That galling looks pretty bad. I would discard those parts.

But I'm not sure I should be helping the competition. My son (25 years old now and started out like yours)

With the AGS 5/16

And driving a 5-Open he had built in the 2012 Mint 400

...will be racing in the AGS 5/1600 again in this year's Baja 1000. They've taken 2nd place the last 2 years.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[Scott SD]

Thanks Mr. Dusty. But….I am not the competition. I just help a friend with his 5/16 car. He is racing CODE and thinking about SCORE next year because the 1000 should go to La Paz.

Thanks to share the pics of your son. You must be a proud dad. If you go down to the 1000, let me know. I normally bring my kids to the start and spectate, but might go to Ojos this year. I have told my son that he can have my baja when he turns 16. I will just have to build another one.

Update on the CVs. I went back to the 944 guy and he gave me 4 more complete CVs. Between the 12 944 CVs, I have 4 that are in good condition and 4 decent extras. After I finish cleaning them I plan to lightly polish the bearing surfaces. Grinding bits are easy to find for a 930 CV, but not for Type 4/944. Luckily my dad is a machinist and volunteered to dress some grinding bits to the 0.687” 944 size.

[Scott SD]

Finally getting back to working on my baja. I want to remove the torsion bars in order to cycle the rear suspension. Retainers and spring plates came off with no issue, but both torsion bars are stuck in the center adjuster arms. I tried a few different approaches and then applied leverage with a 2X4, but they won’t move. Next idea is to heat up the center adjuster, but I do not want to damage the adjuster or the arms.

Anyone have a good idea to get the torsion bars out?

[Scott SD]

Weekend update. Got 1 torsion bar out. Total pain. I removed the engine and trans in order to heat up the adjuster arms and not cook the seal in the trans nose cone. I used and slide hammer mated to a bearing puller. Finally came out.

I installed the spring plate (3/8” notched) and boxed trailing arm with new Class 10.9 hardware and SACO poly bushings. I used synthetic Green Grease on the spring plate bushings, trailing arm bushings, and the wheel bearings.

The rear brakes were finished up a few months ago. They are stock, late brakes with the larger shoes. I blasted and painted all of the parts, installed new shoes and a 22mm cylinder. Going to use ’67 drums. Next step is to stud the drums and test for interference.

[Scott SD]

Update on the CVs. I lightly polished the stars and outer cages. I have enough for (2) axles and a spare axle that I plan to keep in the car. What I noticed during assembly was that the Thing drive flanges use an 8mm bolt and the Empi stub axles use a 3/8” bolt. Another order into SACO for 3/8” bolts. Next I had to drill out (3) CVs and the Boot Flanges to accept the 3/8” bolt. I finally assembled one axle for trial assembly and measured the axle angle. On the stop is 19 degrees. I think I need to take the spring plate off and increase the notch from 3/8” to ½”. Max on the T4/944 CVs is 22 degrees, so I think it should be safe. I also checked back & forth movement on the axles. At the bottom of travel it has 5/8” of movement and when level it has ½” of movement.

Also got the brake drums cleaned up and studded. With the boxed arms, 944 CVs, and studded drums, it is starting to look stout. I can’t wait to get some BTRs mounted to the drums.

[tobiism]

Looking good so far!!!!
_________________
"There has never been a genius without a hint of madness."
-Albert Einstein

[manxvair]

What is the bit you used to polish the CV grooves?

[Scott SD]

@tobiism - Thanks for the compliment!

@manxvair - Link below. I bought 3/4" grinding wheels and my dad dressed them to the proper size (0.687").

https://www.artcotools.com/mounted-mx-wheels.html

[frankydee]

I am following this to see what you are going to do for shock mounts. I want to box my trailing arms but need to keep the stock upper shock mount for now. I have notched the spring plates and hand to moved the bottom shock mount hole up 1" for now. Whats a mother to do?

[Scott SD]