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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:07 am Post subject: |
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Thursday update:
A samba member has sold us his better used 40 DRLA's so that issue has been resolved. Now, here's my next question. I'm running a stock engine driven fuel pump and I think I'm going to have to install a fuel pressure regulator to reduce the pressure down to around 2 1/2 psi if I'm not mistaken. I'd also like to install a fixed fuel pressure gauge just because I think it would be useful as well as look bitchin. If anyone has done this already to their type 1 engine would they please post some pics so I can get an idea of where to mount this stuff and the best way to plumb it? Your advice and help are greatly appreciated. _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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Marv [UK] Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2009 Posts: 2225 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:12 am Post subject: |
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aeromech wrote: |
Thursday update:
A samba member has sold us his better used 40 DRLA's so that issue has been resolved. Now, here's my next question. I'm running a stock engine driven fuel pump and I think I'm going to have to install a fuel pressure regulator to reduce the pressure down to around 2 1/2 psi if I'm not mistaken. I'd also like to install a fixed fuel pressure gauge just because I think it would be useful as well as look bitchin. If anyone has done this already to their type 1 engine would they please post some pics so I can get an idea of where to mount this stuff and the best way to plumb it? Your advice and help are greatly appreciated. |
There should be no need for a regulator if you have a decent pump (speak to yellowbeard, he's the resident pump guru) and as for a fuel pressure regulator, it's just another place for fuel to leak from IMHO.
If you must have one, get an inline adaptor for the gauge to screw into and mount it somewhere on shroud near the coil to avoid too many kinks in the fuel line. A couple of 'P' clips and some tek screws will do the job.
From the tech manual for Dells, fuel pressure can be up to 3 1/2 PSI, but it's best to aim for 3. Gaskets under the pump (but on top of the bakelite pedestal) is the VW way of doing it. If you need more than 3, you need a different pump! |
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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:22 am Post subject: |
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Here's the engine it's all going on.
I guess shimming the pump would be the most straight forward way to reduce the pressure. _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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74 Thing Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2004 Posts: 7393
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 11:08 am Post subject: |
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Exactly, just tee in a pressure gauge and then shim to get your desired fuel pressure (around 3lbs) then remove the gauge. Make sure the floats are set correctly before installing the carbs and make sure that the manifolds sit flat on the head and do not interfere with the cylinder tin or fan shroud. You may have to file or sand part of the manifold so it fits properly as well as modify the cylinder tin opening.
Also verify jetting-according to the CB book stock jetting on dual 40 DRLAs are 34 vents, 180 air, 140 mains, 60 idle, 35 accl pump jets.
Then just synch them up and check for vac leaks then adjust the mixture screws, synch up again and them make sure the linkage does not effect the synch and that both carbs open at the same time. |
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Yellowbeard Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2006 Posts: 2288 Location: At large again...
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Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 2:20 pm Post subject: |
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Marv [UK] wrote: |
From the tech manual for Dells, fuel pressure can be up to 3 1/2 PSI, but it's best to aim for 3. Gaskets under the pump (but on top of the bakelite pedestal) is the VW way of doing it. If you need more than 3, you need a different pump! |
Depends on which gaskets you're using. Most of the gaskets available today are pretty flimsy compared to what they used to be. And manufacturing variations in bakelite spacers and pushrods make the final number of shims required a total crapshoot.
For your application, any number between 2.75 and 3.5 psi should work fine. Don't get hung up on how many (or how few) shims it takes to get there. _________________
Lohe wrote: |
Thanks. Thread went from me not being able to understand what Ipis was saying because English is obviously not his first language to me not being able to understand it because English is my first language |
Fuel pumps galore:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=845378 |
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daos Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2017 Posts: 309 Location: Stockholm, SWE
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Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2019 12:21 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 bus with 2007cc engine. Best Carbs? |
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i'm starting a 2007 build, this thread has been really useful. i'm now leaning toward dell 40s... or 36s... or 40s... |
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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2019 1:34 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 bus with 2007cc engine. Best Carbs? |
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Here’s my suggestion. Buy the Weber kit with the good CB linkage from air cooled.net and pay the extra $80 for cleaning and jetting _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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daos Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2017 Posts: 309 Location: Stockholm, SWE
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Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2019 1:49 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 bus with 2007cc engine. Best Carbs? |
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shipping to eu + swedish toll on top of the kit would probably kill me but that's one way to go for sure. |
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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Tue Oct 15, 2019 4:38 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 bus with 2007cc engine. Best Carbs? |
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Ah, I didn't know that you were a foreigner. You probably have better access to Dellortos over there. They are great carburetors. It's just that Webers are still in production _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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daos Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2017 Posts: 309 Location: Stockholm, SWE
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Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2019 12:57 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 bus with 2007cc engine. Best Carbs? |
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i'm a NOS fan. plenty of dells here, pretty good value too.
also found the cb kit over here at a couple of places. a mere 1000 USD... |
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Bryan67 Samba Member
Joined: January 01, 2003 Posts: 2942 Location: Fresno, Ca.
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Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2019 4:18 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 bus with 2007cc engine. Best Carbs? |
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aeromech wrote: |
Here’s my suggestion. Buy the Weber kit with the good CB linkage from air cooled.net and pay the extra $80 for cleaning and jetting |
Or just buy a kit straight from CB Performance that already has the linkage, and has been properly jetted and had the floats set. _________________ If you`re going to do something, do it right. |
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