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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31374
Location: Hot Arizona
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 Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2019 3:15 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| bobbyblack wrote: |
I've had a early 70's manual type 1 trans sitting in a Bus for a couple dozen years. It may have been locked up when it got stuck in there, but it is definitely not able to have any parts rotated at all as of now.
Would this be best taken to a metal recycler, or is the case worth opening up and looking at more closely? |
Keep it as a future core should you need a rebuilt transmission?
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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drgerry
Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 110
Location: Jonesboro, GA
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| Posted: Thu Oct 10, 2019 5:59 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I have one . . . .
My ignition switch went bad. . . .
pulled the steering wheel
pulled the turn sign/wiper/switch box off
replaced the switch
Now I can't get the steering wheel back on! Dang! I've searched but can't find any schematic showing how to do it.
the plastic spacer (anti rattle thingy) seems to be the problem. I can't remember if it goes on before the steering wheel or after.
Before: it won't allow the steering wheel to go on far enough
After: it hits the bearings and won't go any further. Then the column wobbles.
Can someone help a guy who forgot to remember to pay attention to how things are put together . . . |
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vamram 
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7304
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2019 3:55 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I have one about using water to "burn" carbon off of the cylinders or valves. I've read that w/the engine running you can slowly pour water down the carb throat. Carbon will be busted or burned off producing white smoke as you rev the engine.
Is this true?
What if you try this and no white smoke comes out of the tailpipes? Does this mean your valves/heads are "clean?"
Is it an old wive's tale?
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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tzepesh
Samba Member
Joined: May 28, 2003
Posts: 733
Location: Romania
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2019 4:24 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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drgerry, the anti-rattle bushing goes on the steering shaft, then the switches housing is installed. Its lip shall be behind the bearing, you shall not be able to take out that bushing with the housing or the bearing on.
_________________
'74 1303S, L98B Viperngrun (extra glitter), German Look
'64 1200, Sea Blue, under restoration |
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dubsteez79
Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2017
Posts: 194
Location: star nc
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2019 5:29 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| vamram wrote: |
I have one about using water to "burn" carbon off of the cylinders or valves. I've read that w/the engine running you can slowly pour water down the carb throat. Carbon will be busted or burned off producing white smoke as you rev the engine.
Is this true?
What if you try this and no white smoke comes out of the tailpipes? Does this mean your valves/heads are "clean?"
Is it an old wive's tale? |
They did it on an episode of roadkill and didnt screw anything up. I dont know if it actually helped though. In theory it makes some sense. Take that with a grain of salt but you can watch it yourself(green pontiac wagon roadtrip episode).
_________________
It drinks the coffee.
Then Engineers the things.
Then drinks the beer to forget the things. |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31374
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2019 6:17 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| vamram wrote: |
I have one about using water to "burn" carbon off of the cylinders or valves. I've read that w/the engine running you can slowly pour water down the carb throat. Carbon will be busted or burned off producing white smoke as you rev the engine.
Is this true?
What if you try this and no white smoke comes out of the tailpipes? Does this mean your valves/heads are "clean?"
Is it an old wive's tale? |
Just remember that if liquid water or liquid anything gets into the combustion chambers it is not compressible and could do damage.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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dubsteez79
Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2017
Posts: 194
Location: star nc
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2019 11:50 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| vamram wrote: |
I have one about using water to "burn" carbon off of the cylinders or valves. I've read that w/the engine running you can slowly pour water down the carb throat. Carbon will be busted or burned off producing white smoke as you rev the engine.
Is this true?
What if you try this and no white smoke comes out of the tailpipes? Does this mean your valves/heads are "clean?"
Is it an old wive's tale? |
Just remember that if liquid water or liquid anything gets into the combustion chambers it is not compressible and could do damage. |
Yes definitely dont pour it in haphazardly if you do it. It more than likely atomizes pretty decent as its pulled through the intake tract and, if there isnt too much water to cool down the valves and combustion chamber locally, it probably phase changes to a vapor(compressible) before the combustion begins.
All that being said, I could be wrong and there are a lot of "probably's" in my statement because I have not run any experiments to prove the theory.
_________________
It drinks the coffee.
Then Engineers the things.
Then drinks the beer to forget the things. |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34009
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2019 4:12 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| I've heard of dribbling (NOT pouring) ATF in the carb for the same "cure." |
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drgerry
Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 110
Location: Jonesboro, GA
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2019 5:39 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| liquid water . . . . . . interesting concept . . . . . |
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VW_Jimbo
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2016
Posts: 9966
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2019 10:38 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Yes, dribbling water in with the engine revs up around 2500. Then start dribbling till the engine almost dies, but try to keep it running by increasing throttle position. Works like a charm, but if done incorrectly (lack of knowledge or skill) can lead to bent valves or hydraulic bending of the connecting rods.
I have used this technique hundreds, if not thousands of times to cure a poorly running engine. Or to clean up the combustion chambers in a soon to be rebuilt engine.
_________________
Jimbo
There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!
| TDCTDI wrote: |
| Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look. |
| 67rustavenger wrote: |
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!  |
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vamram
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7304
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 4:23 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Charging System - dumb question. I had my battery and alternator tested at Advanced Auto today. Are these numbers "good"? They are per the little machine they use to test.
- Battery 12.8v at the posts car off
- Shows 601 CCA, rated 500
- Starter Cranking v: 11.70v
- Alternator (car running) 14.07v no load
- Alternator (car running) 13.57v "loaded" - bright lights on
Problem: The horn barely works, and I do occasionally get dim alternator light when running multiple electrical items - lights, wipers, try the horn and it barely works or not at all. I thought I had this beat a while back.
New clean trans-to-body strap. Could the problem be just bad grounds at different places - headlight and parking light connections?
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31374
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 5:05 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| vamram wrote: |
Charging System - dumb question. I had my battery and alternator tested at Advanced Auto today. Are these numbers "good"? They are per the little machine they use to test.
- Battery 12.8v at the posts car off
- Shows 601 CCA, rated 500
- Starter Cranking v: 11.70v
- Alternator (car running) 14.07v no load
- Alternator (car running) 13.57v "loaded" - bright lights on
Problem: The horn barely works, and I do occasionally get dim alternator light when running multiple electrical items - lights, wipers, try the horn and it barely works or not at all. I thought I had this beat a while back.
New clean trans-to-body strap. Could the problem be just bad grounds at different places - headlight and parking light connections? |
Your numbers look good. Troubleshoot the horn itself by jumping a new ground wire, and if that doesn't BEEP, jump positive side with a positve wire from battery (recommend wire with in-line fuse). If horn itslef BEEPS loud, then issue is in the ground crcuit through the steering column/bad connection.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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vamram
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7304
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Wed Oct 23, 2019 5:38 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| vamram wrote: |
Charging System - dumb question. I had my battery and alternator tested at Advanced Auto today. Are these numbers "good"? They are per the little machine they use to test.
- Battery 12.8v at the posts car off
- Shows 601 CCA, rated 500
- Starter Cranking v: 11.70v
- Alternator (car running) 14.07v no load
- Alternator (car running) 13.57v "loaded" - bright lights on
Problem: The horn barely works, and I do occasionally get dim alternator light when running multiple electrical items - lights, wipers, try the horn and it barely works or not at all. I thought I had this beat a while back.
New clean trans-to-body strap. Could the problem be just bad grounds at different places - headlight and parking light connections? |
Your numbers look good. Troubleshoot the horn itself by jumping a new ground wire, and if that doesn't BEEP, jump positive side with a positve wire from battery (recommend wire with in-line fuse). If horn itslef BEEPS loud, then issue is in the ground crcuit through the steering column/bad connection. |
Thanks Cusser. I will try that. Btw, this is a '74 Super. The wires from the horn are not in the steering column like in a standard, except for the ground wire at the horn button. Not if that changes the troubleshooting steps.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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vamram
Samba Member
Joined: March 08, 2012
Posts: 7304
Location: NOVA
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| Posted: Thu Oct 24, 2019 4:51 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Cusser wrote: |
| Troubleshoot the horn itself by jumping a new ground wire, and if that doesn't BEEP, jump positive side with a positve wire from battery (recommend wire with in-line fuse). If horn itslef BEEPS loud, then issue is in the ground crcuit through the steering column/bad connection. |
Cusser, this '74 is full of surprises even after 3 years. You were right I ran a separate ground wire where the one from the horn was spliced in the trunk. Key on, touch the wire to a screw in the body and *BEEEP!!!* Super loud.
I unwound the mess the PO left at the driver side lite and discovered that the harness here had been butchered and spliced by wrapping the wire ends together then wrapping them in electrical tape.
I knew this car had been in a front end collision. I guess the harness at this point had been damaged in the accident, cut and butchered back together. There's lots of bondo including in the spare tire well right were the driver-side ground wires are attached/screwed into the body (lower right of the picture). So there's a bad ground or no ground connection there. I ran jumper wire from that spot to an actual metal area in the trunk. I'll tackle these wires again this weekend to do them all right, for now I re-did them w/butt connectors.
So not perfect, but I have a horn now.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!
'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!! |
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Mickey bitsko
Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2019
Posts: 511
Location: New Mexifornia
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| Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2019 5:33 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Happy Thanksgiving,
I know the easy answer but gonna ask anyway. Without removing the gas tank,
How much of a pita is changing out ALL tie rods and steering damper on my 70' type 1? Been PB blasting all the ends for a couple weeks so should come apart fairly easily. |
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Cusser
Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31374
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2019 9:34 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| Mickey bitsko wrote: |
Happy Thanksgiving,
I know the easy answer but gonna ask anyway. Without removing the gas tank,
How much of a pita is changing out ALL tie rods and steering damper on my 70' type 1? Been PB blasting all the ends for a couple weeks so should come apart fairly easily. |
The job is not that tough if you have the correct type of tie rod puller. I have seen different types, and I don't like the pickle fork type myself.
I own this type
I might like this type
Anyway, pulling the gas tank is not that bad; I find re-installing the filler hoses the biggest pains.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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DurocShark
Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2004
Posts: 6624
Location: Crappy town in a crappy state. But the beach is nearby, so I have that going for me.
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Mickey bitsko
Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2019
Posts: 511
Location: New Mexifornia
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| Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2019 10:02 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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| I have, from jbugs complete tie rod ends, thought it would be easier to unscrew ends and replace rather than press out and replace. |
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DurocShark
Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2004
Posts: 6624
Location: Crappy town in a crappy state. But the beach is nearby, so I have that going for me.
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| Posted: Thu Nov 28, 2019 10:04 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Those tools are to remove the ends from the spindle. They can be in there REALLY tight.
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No boom today. Boom tomorrow. There's always a boom tomorrow. |
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DurocShark
Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2004
Posts: 6624
Location: Crappy town in a crappy state. But the beach is nearby, so I have that going for me.
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