LandSpeed Buggy

[rayjay]

[timcurtis67]

You can't restrict the flow out or you will end up with oil getting pushed into the Intake side. That will result in oil into the pistons and getting burn't. Fouling plugs as well.

Normally the restriction is in that little adapter block. There should be around a .060" hole hole through it to slow down the oil.

Yes that is on plain bearing turbos.
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67 Desert Fox Spoiler

[oprn]

[slalombuggy]

I'm still trying to achieve about a 50/50 split with a little bias towards one end. The hardest thing to achieve is getting the most weight I can between the axles. Had I been smart I would have gone mid engine, but a little late for that now. Almost as critical is the relationship between the center of pressure on the body and the center of mass of the car. CoM must lead the CoP or the car will want to swap ends.

brad

[oprn]

[rayjay]

I remember from reading about old road racing motorcycles that a real concern was 'center of pressure' and where it was located in relation to the wheels and the fore and aft cg. Iirc the COP was supposed to be behind the CG for the same reason the fletching on an arrow is at the back. Some of the old motorcycles with dustbin fairings had the COP forward and were uncontrollable in certain wind conditions. They banned them and required the front wheel to be full visible from the side view.

ETA, these old bikes had unreal top speeds for the amount of HP they made. It took them many years of HP gains to eventually equal the top speeds of the 1950s.

[slalombuggy]

yeah this has been bugging me all morning . I got it wrong in my previous post. Ya, those dust bin fairings were a disaster, lots of guys got hurt using those before they banned them. I gotta go back and change my post

[oprn]

Bullets are an example of having the C of G behind the C of P, without the spin that rifling puts on them they will just tumble end for end. The gyroscopic effect from spinning longitudinally stabilizes them.

There you go slalombuggy! Just get someone to give it a good spin as you launch!!

[rayjay]

You are fine with the rear engine. it's not like you have an iron block out back. The ease of maintenance on a rear engine car is nice. Just try to keep as much as you can between the axles from now on.

I used to autoX and Solo 1 big engine [ 1300cc 124 pushrod !!! ] Fiat 850s and working on them was a joy. A properly set up rear engined car can handle very well [ as can be attested by numerous Spridget and Spitfire drivers that my lowly 850 spider embarrased ]. Understeer is unavoidable but manageable with proper set up and driving style [ all of this you probably know already ]. I did once provide some minor assistance to a local Atlanta guy that put a 900 ninja motor in an 850 spider and set a record at Bonneville in the early 90s.

I'm still thinking about the cooling fan. As a lark, measure the crank pulley and the fan/alt pulley and do the math and tell me what rpm the fan is pulling at your redline. It's probably twice crank speed or more. The stock VW ratio is for adequate cooling at 50 mph with a reserve for a long climb.

[oprn]

Directional stability becomes much more critical as speed increases. The center of pressure will have virtually no bearing on auto cross cars but will be a large factor on speed runs.

I watched a fellow ice race a stripped out Fiat X19 once with a Yamaha 1100 in the passenger's seat. That thing was virtually untouchable by the Datsun 280 and 300ZXs he was running against! Rooster tails of ice chips coming out of the corners 10 feet high and 40 feet back!

[slalombuggy]

The intercooler was delivered on Friday as well as tubing straightener for doing bulk tubing and some AN fittings.

I managed to shorten the charge tube an inch and a half to get a bit lower. Finished welding everything up and now it can go out for powdercoating. Time to pull the engine to change the cam, bearings, rod bolts, resize the barrels and set up the rocker geometry for the new cam and rockers.

[slalombuggy]

I've spent the last 4 weeks either getting ready for or recovering from surgery in the leg that was busted up pretty bad 5 years ago so I've been doing a lot of couch surfing, reading as much as I can on turbos and buying a shit ton of fittings, hoses and parts for the car. I've been trying to get a bit more mobile and doing a few things that I can do mostly seated so I finish welding the intake pipes last week so now I can get everything powder coated.

Yesterday I bent up some new lines for the fire bottle. When I was originally doing it the line to the engine was going to run up top but it needed to go to the bottom of the engine to meet tech so the "T" was 6" off the frame in mid air and the lines were the same way. So I cut line from the bottle down and flared it so the "T" is on the frame. I then bent a new line that goes straight up that will spray the fuel pum, regulator and majority of the lines and bent a new one to fit around the engine going to the bottom rear to spray an oil fire under the engine.

Today I started bending the fuel lines starting with the crossover line between fuel rails. I want to keep the front of the engine as tidy as possible so I looked the 3/8" line from the front of the rails around the back of the shroud so that there is only a bit of the line showing.

And CIP1.com also had a big sale on alternator kits so I upgraded my 55 amp alternator to the 75amp model. Between the ECU, laptop data logger, coil pack, fuel pump and intercooler water pump plus any dash and car accessories I figured I would be pushing close to 45amps when everything is at full roar and higher on start up and I don't like running things close to limits so I bought a big shiney alternator that should be pretty dull after one trip to Bonneville. I also started running intercooler hoses and will be picking up a tank this weekend.

Tomorrow is supposed to be nice again so I can mock up the fuel pump and lines from the pump to the engine and from the engine to the regulator

brad

[slalombuggy]

New FI fuel pump and high volume inlet and filter

Fuel line from regulator to tank and fuel rail on right throttle body.

From pump to left side fuel rail.

This ends all the fabrication on the engine. Now I can pull must of it apart to sent for powder coating. I'll take the engine with the exhaust mounted and heat up a few of the bends to relieve pressure on them and then sent that out for coating as well. Next step is opening up the case for inspection and maintenance and put a fitting in the sump for the turbo drain. I'm also considering a drain from the valve cover on cylinders 3/4 to the sump.

brad

[60ragtop]

I got the white marbles covered for you next year, buddy
_________________
Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986

[slalombuggy]

[slalombuggy]

With fabrication finished for the most part, I sent al the parts I could out for powder coating. Everything is done in semi gloss black

I painted the fuel lines with an industrial paint.

The linkage is powder coated. I added .010 brass shim stock between the arms and cross bar to take any slack out of them even before the set screws are tightened.

I also painted the throttle bodies since I was not going to take them completely apart to powder coat them. The fuel rails polished up fairly decently and I spent some time and filed down the block for the fuel pressure sensor and made it look a little nicer. Instead of the supplied barbed fittings and hose, all the fuel lines are 3/8" steel s=with AN fittings and the line to the fuel pressure regulator and ECU will be nylon tubing with press lock fittings.

I've also mounted a 3 gallon tank for water and purchased a pump for the intercooler system. The tank is an old fuel cell that has seen better days. I'll cap off the #8AN fittings and install #12 threaded fittings that don't require welding. I removed the broken filler and will make a simple cap that will be easier to fill with water and ice. I'll also tap into this tank to get water to spray into the fan near the end of the run

brad

[HotStreetVw]

Awesome build. The black powder is going to look real good assembled.

What influenced your cam selection? That’s a serious stick even toned down with the 1.3s. Were you able to buy the space saver manifolds matched to the ultra wedgeports or did you need to modify?
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4inBhore
50 Split - 2724cc NA. Haltech injected
62 Notchback - 2542cc Turbo WIP

[slalombuggy]

I talked with Pat at CB about the cam. He thought it would be alright given the application and that once I'm moving the engine stays at fairly high rpm, above where it starts to work. Still considering other options.

The manifolds are heavily welded around the bottom to match port them, was all done at CB as part of the order. Once the sides are on there isnt room for the injectors on the outside.

I think it will look pretty good blacked out.

brad

[HotStreetVw]

Installing it straight up? ~70atdc IVC. Is the fan going to survive the RPMs?
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4inBhore
50 Split - 2724cc NA. Haltech injected
62 Notchback - 2542cc Turbo WIP

[slalombuggy]

The fan has survived 5 trips so far. I set the belt so loose I can almost pinch it together so it slips easily. I might set cam back a bit to move the rpm range down.

brad