Bus mid mount

[joe cool]

Were your wheels hopping off-road or was this under normal on-road driving conditions? Just curious, I have seen it happen off-road.

[Braukuche]

Running a 10mm bolt and nut through the shitty new front mounts is a cheap and easy fix.
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Go Reds! Smash state!

Retirement is here!
1956 Ghia
1959 SO-23 Westfalia
1960 double cab
1960 Baja Bug
1963 stretched double cab
1962 Golde sunroof Ghia
1963 356 B coupe
1963 Notchback
1967 21 window less rusty now

[Erik G]

[chrisflstf]

There is an easy test to see if your nose cone is moving. Accelerate smartly in 2nd gear and let go of the gas. If the gear shift moves back or forth, the nose cone is moving.

[turkis-deluxe]

[sled]

they fit just fine, but you guys do not understand how the loads are different with a redux box trans than a 'straight axle'.

I never said it didn't FIT, I said it wasn't designed for a redux box setup. which its not.


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drive your split.

[Daddybus]

Reduction boxes multiply the torque of the motor so the small vw motor can move a heavy load like a bus with max payload. According to our buddy Isaac Newton, for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. The torque from the motor is multiplied by the reduction boxes and then transfered to the tire and then to the road and then the road pushes back on the tire. If the grip of the tire is less than the reaction force from the road, then you get wheel spin. If the grip of the tire exceeds the reaction force from the road, then the bus will move forward provided the reaction force from the road doesn't find an easier way out of the drive train. This is where the nose cone and broken transmission cases come in (or apart as the case may be). As the reaction force travels back through the drive train it eventually reaches the nose cone, which is why bus nose cone mounts are a stronger design than type 1 mounts. A mid-mount like the Wolfgang mount (which I run on my Type 1 IRS- equipped '67 bus) absorbs some of the force that would otherwise be passed to the nose cone.
Now if you really want to break your nose cone mount or transmission case, all you have to do is roll back in your bus, put it in 1st gear, rev the little vw motor, then drop the clutch. You'll have the increased force of the weight of the bus rolling back verses the force of the reving motor multiplied by the reduction boxes. When the tires grip, the reaction force will find the easiest way out via the weakest link in the drive train...a broken nose cone if you're lucky or a broken transcase at the diff if you're not.

[Malokin Martin]

I roll a 1962 double cab with stock reduction boxes and a larger than stock displacement motor

My story went like:

1.) Front trans mount broke > Everything out - new repro front mount

1,000 miles

2.) Front trans mount broke > Everything out - new repro front mount

2,000 miles

3.) Front trans mount broke > Everything out - new repro front mount

2,000 miles

4.) Front trans mount broke > Everything out - new repro front mount AND wolfgang mid mount

Now 20,000 miles and no more worries. Your mileage may vary, but it definitely worked for me and my reduction boxes.

On the flip side I’m super good at removing engine/trans now.

[jason]

Straight axle will squish the rubber into the frame horn. Reductions will stretch it . It really depends on the internals of the rubber pieces. If just rubber it will pull apart pretty quick. If there is some type of metal with rubber in middle, your good to go.

I doubt you need it unless your doing burn outs or really heavy footed. I have a 2 liter in my bus with a stock front mount.

[sled]

the design could be improved if the top stud coming out of the rubber was longer, allowing some rubber on TOP of the chassis, with a large washer and nut. Then it would distribute the forces more evenly, and also dampen vibrations. As it is now, under load its metal to metal contact negating the rubber properties.


as with many things in this hobby, people install products but don't really look at how they work. "Its for sale, it must be perfect."
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drive your split.

[chrisflstf]

The reason I like the Berg mount is it doesnt matter if the force or load is going up or down. Doesnt matter. The rubber mounts will stop the movement. The force will always be in compression on the rubber mount

[Erik G]

[jason]

I have a few of the Berg mounts. They work the same as the wolfgang. It is only rubber. I wouldnt use it with reductions. Rubber pulls apart easier than when compressing.

[calsurfnative]

I bought one... thanks for all the input,does the threads on top of the rubber go thru the frame? and do i have to drill holes?

[pyrOman]

[calsurfnative]

Yes no drilling im just wondering that there is no holes that are for the top of the rubber that the studs are going thru the frame?

[Brendel20]

I recently installed this mount in a 58 bus. I put a later large nut trans in and used the wagenswest lollipop mount and noticed some minor movement at the nosecone. I will say that my mount area did have some hacking from a PO so that was probably the culprit vs the lollipop mount. I also noticed some inconsistencies in shifting smoothness after installing the lollipop and my setup.

Decided to try this mount despite the naysayers about it not helping with Rgbs.

You do not have to drill any holes. The hole are already there from the factory for some reason. Took me about an hour to install. After torquing the mid mount in I instantly noticed that it squared up my nose mount.

Shifting is smoother, everything feels more solid, no noticeable extra noise.

Helped my situation. Hope this helps others

[blitzkrieg59]

Has anyone modified a Wolfgang mount with longer bolts and a bit of rubber on the top side?
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SST X, XI, XII
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'65 Riviera Camper