Espar B4 Gas Auxiliary Heater Install for Syncro Weekender

[BCgee]

I mounted the B4 under the bench seat drivers side. A 125ah aux battery is under the passenger side and I’ve kept my stock rear heater as it works well and it’s cold, ahem, six months of the year in Montana.

The power supply was fairly straightforward. The B4 requires a 5 amp and 20 amp fuse (5 amp for the controller and 20 amp for the heater). My power harness had 4 wires of which the B4 uses two.

Espar includes a fuse block with their kit. The Espar power wire is also quite long. I was able to run the Espar power wires directly to my house battery fuse block (Blue Sea Systems 6 position fuse holder) and use my own fuse block.

Either way works. It was easier and cleaner in my installation to keep all the van fuses in a single location, and cut a few steps from the install.

The fuel supply, fuel pump, and fuel pump power supply may be the most complicated aspect of the passenger seat installation simply because I’m a desk jockey by day and rarely cut holes in my van nor splice fuel lines.

That said once you’ve marked your mount, drilled your holes, and tightened fasteners, you need to Tee into the unpressurized side of your fuel line. Eg, the side between your fuel pump and gas tank. My Syncro line is readily available with the rear wheels on ramps but there isn’t much length for the Tee. I ended up building my Tee and splice in the heated garage, then laying in snow for the install.

Also, perhaps a basic reminder: run your gas tank down to empty and prepare some way to catch the last dregs of your tank...it’ll come right out onto your hands as soon as you release the gas tank latch

My parts list for the fuel Tee splice was brass fittings and NAPA hoses and clamps:
- 1/2 x 5/16 x 1/2 barbed Tee
- 5/16 x 5/32 barbed reducer
- 12mm, 5/16, 5/32 fuel hose, lots of small good clamps

I also fabricated a rock/ mud shield because of the fuel pump’s exposed location. During winter driving and gravel road summer driving there’s a LOT of debris flying at the rear frame crossbeam. My shield is a salvaged heat shield from a Chevy pickup solenoid with a bit of rubber up top. On a half dozen muddy camping missions it’s worked great so far.

My exhaust is less than the recommended max 6’ and less than the max turn angles; just one U turn and bolted at a downward, rear facing angle. Being on the drivers side I have the added bonus of not having exhaust fumes upon opening the sliding door. From everything I’ve read, installing the muffler immediately is the right way to do this installation. The noise of the heater outside the van is a low whoosh with the muffler.

Wiring the controller is one of the sources of frustration with installing the heater. Espar’s documentation is…lacking. Those used to reading technical wiring diagrams may have an easier time with the thermostat installation. I used the EasyStart Select controller which can double as the thermostat.

There are at least six different Espar controllers with slightly different wiring (part of the frustration since there isn’t one straightforward answer to hooking up your controller). The other frustration is that the B4 wiring harness contained ten wires, of which you’ll need three for the Easy Start Select. The EasyStart Select is nearly plug and play into the High Altitude Kit for running the heater above 4,600′ with a catch. It also only requires three wires for installation. It works fine, but doesn’t include diagnostic functions.

The harness for the Easy Start plugs right into the High Altitude controller harness but you’d have to locate the altitude sensor within about 18″ of the Easy Start, so it’s plug and play function may not work if you need to put your altitude sensor elsewhere. I installed it in a custom wood tray I fabricated as part of the NAHT install, accessible from the bench seat or when laying in bed.

A quick word on the High Altitude Sensor. Newer Espar heaters have a high altitude accessory. The High Altitude Kit (HAK) is basically a barometric pressure sensor that leans out delivery of the fuel at altitudes above 4,600′. The HAK may not be necessary for you if you are only driving through the mountains. However, the heater combustion chamber may soot up and stop working for prolonged use at altitude due to incomplete combustion. I paid up front for an HAK from Heatso and don’t think twice now.

The altitude sensor needs to be installed in an open location where it can sense changes in barometric pressure and change fuel delivery to compensate for reduced oxygen. Don’t bury it inside a wall or cabinet. The HAK is straightforward to install with the Easy Start Select controller using the diagrams attached above.

The last part of the installation is to insert fuses and power up the heater. You may need to run a few cycles with the heater for it to pump fuel from the tank all the way to the heater. During my initial startup I turned the heater on, then slid under the van to watch the fuel line. Click, click, click, click goes the fuel pump. Within a few seconds I began to see a mix of fuel and air bubbles moving through the fuel line.

The B4 heater has been in for a few weeks now, and I still grin every time I turn it on. Really looking forward to expanding the trip season with the family. The vent is so hot on even medium setting that I can dry ski boot liners, gloves, what have you in pretty short time!

On the whole the B4 heater is a game changer for my van and family. It makes the van a legitimately comfortable winter sports and hobby commuter with the added benefit of making trips far more comfortable during the other 6 months of “cold” in Montana. I very much appreciate dealing with only one primary fuel source: two, three gallon rotopax on the rear ladder provide plenty of security on trips.

Good luck on your install🤘
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1987 SVX Syncro Hightop

[BCgee]

[BCgee]

[dobryan]

I am a little confused about the placement of the altitude sensor. How can it make any difference where it is placed?
_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[TopBud]

Thanks. I just need to start saving.
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86 bostig SYNCRO
66 convertible Karmann Ghia

[CessnaJon]

Nice install! Do you have pics of your heat outlet duct? I installed my B1LC in the same location but haven’t yet cut the hole for the vent outlet.
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1973 Westy (shared birthday)
1990 Westy Multivan
2015 Passat TDI 6sp
2015 Sportwagon TDI 6sp
LR-JET, Gulfstream 159

[vwwestyman]

I agree with the wiring! I cannot figure out why they didn't design it such that the various controllers could all use the same plug, just possibly ignoring the unnecessary ones. Would make things much easier.

Where did you mount your controller?

If it is in the back, and you want the ability to turn it on while driving, I used a wire tapped into the yellow wire to do so. I ran it up to my currently unused defroster switch. Now I just turn that stiwch on, and it commands the heater to come on. It even maintains whatever temp the Easy Start is set on, even though the Easy Start button says "Heater off". You can even adjust the set temp with the thermostat on back, when the heater is on via the front switch.

It's nice to be able to turn it on while driving, and also quicker to pop open the passenger door if I want to preheat the Bus, rather than to open the slider and crawl back to the cabinet.

Mine is a diesel Espar, so I guess you might want to verify the wire color is the same on your gas version, but I'd bet it is.
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[BCgee]

[BCgee]

[vwwestyman]

[BCgee]

[TopBud]

does that rear seat fold up for you to access the heater or do you have to go through the front panel?
Thanks
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86 bostig SYNCRO
66 convertible Karmann Ghia

[BCgee]

[kguarnotta]

hey bcgee I've been reading about these installs for a while - and like how you did it.

I've got my kit, and hope to start installing soon (got to get it in before it gets too cold here in NH).

A previous owner ran some fake wood flooring (which I really don't like) under the rear bench seat. I also bought one of those mounting plates with my heater. I'm trying to figure out the best way to secure this to the floor. Should I cut a large section of the wood flooring out, so the heater can be mounted directly to the sheet metal floor? or should mounting it on the installed flooring work? I'm trying to figure out how to know if the mounting studs are long enough to go through the fake wood flooring and the sheet metal? Any suggestions on figuring out this first step? I'm quite nervous about cutting the holes.

I hope these questions make sense...
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-Kevin
Lincoln, MA

'86 Triple Knob Syncro w/EJ22
'78 Westy
'69 Single Cab
'65 Kombi - EZ-Camper

[kguarnotta]

Another question - I've seen some install pics where folks just cut out one large hole, and some where 7 individual holes are cut.

I've got a mounting plate with mine - with all the holes precut. So it seems as though it should be easier to just cut one large hole. Then mount the plate I purchased, and somehow seal this to the metal on the floor.

Is there a reason not to do this?
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-Kevin
Lincoln, MA

'86 Triple Knob Syncro w/EJ22
'78 Westy
'69 Single Cab
'65 Kombi - EZ-Camper

[vanis13]

[BCgee]

[Scottgb2]

I need some community input. I have an 84 Westy with an Espar D2 heater w/smart controller installed under the bench seat by the previous owner. A few months ago while performing my monthly "run", the heater stopped working and the control panel gives me an error message. I went to the Espar website and printed out the Installation, Operation and Maintenance instructions hoping I could identify the problem and make the fix. Unfortunately, the manual instructs you to have the unit serviced in the event of an error message. I live in the Northern Virginia area and have had no luck finding a repair shop. I've even tried contacting the authorized dealer/service facilities listed on the Espar website, none will work on it.

So...I'm hoping someone out there with a D2 might be able to give me some insight into the possible problem(s) and fix(es). Is there a carbon build-up issue that requires routine cleaning? I checked the fuel and exhaust lines and both are in good shape. I'm hesitant to blindly jump into disassembly without any idea what to look for.

Any and all advise much appreciated!

[vanis13]

[Scottgb2]

Thanks for the prompt response Vanis13. There is no code shown on the controller, just "err", so I don't have any clue as to the problem.

I will take your suggestion to contact Espar tech support, that seems like a smart place to start.

I think you might be on target with the atomizer/glow plug replacement since the unit was working fine and then just quit.

I'll update the thread as I get more info and hopefully contribute something useful.

Cheers!