76 Convertible Rebuild Thread

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So I've had June Bug now for about 2 months--long enough to get to know her and figure out what needs attention. I've found crazy things like a mattress topper being used as a convertible top pad, $5 shift rod bushings that aren't there and take 4 hours to re-install, numerous missing engine tin pieces and weird Frankenstein monsters of old FI parts mixed with random carb tins, fuel gauges that needed low- and high-side calibration, and numerous odd issues with cheap Chinese distributors and carburetors not working well with each other. I appreciate all the feedback from this forum helping me understand these things, and especially Bill Fowler and Tim@volkzbitz for support and excellent quality rebuilt parts.

I also realized that I'm a relentless perfectionist, and that I'm going to have to sink some serious cash into this bug to make it feel "right".

As the weather finally gets cold in Durham, NC, I decided it was time to park June Bug and tackle a full engine tear down. While I'm at it, I'm going to address some cosmetic issues on the interior that will make it feel like mine.

My goals:

-engine removal and teardown, for sure rebuilding the top end and inspecting the bottom end to see what it needs. I have no engine history, no sense of mileage. All I know is the compression is on the low end (~100 psi on each cylinder), it's starting to puff smoke when I start it, and half the engine tins are missing or wrong. While I'm in there I'll bring the tins up to stock and install the thermostat and flaps.I suspect I'll end up doing a full bottom end rebuild, align boring the case--which I hope is not cracked.

-replace all exhaust and heat exchangers with good quality German or reproduction parts (currently cheap, rusty aftermarket parts that don't fit well) and get the heat working again

-inspect and likely replace clutch. The cable has been adjusted almost all the way up, and I still have more than 1" of pedal play before it engages. It shifts fairly well, but everything shudders when I'm starting from a dead stop. Hoping nothing in there is warped, but I may have oil leaks at the main seal.

-install a new Procar Elite interior kit, gray vinyl

-install new gray canvas convertible top (Sew Fine) and matching salt and pepper loop carpet.

-address numerous annoying issues that are the result of poor maintenance and jury-rigged "fixes"

-add 5.5" smoothie chrome rims and some wider performance tires all around.

I'll be posting progress and questions here!
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1976 Convertible Super Beetle, "June Bug".
FI-->34PICT3 carb conversion-->now dual 40 IDFs
Self-rebuilt 1904 (after totally botching a 1641 rebuild, cussing a lot, and throwing lots of cash in the fire)

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Day 1.

Yesterday I tore into the EC, removing everything but the long block.

I realize that this process would have been easier with the engine out, but I was working alone. My helper comes over tomorrow to drop the block out. I also don't have jack stands tall enough to accommodate dropping the engine with the fan shroud attached, so this will make that process much easier.

Major finds at this stage:

1-2 cylinder tin is cracked where it mounts to the head. Will need to replace that.

Missing tins: right sled, thermostat, flaps
Damaged rear engine tin.

Rear apron has been welded in from another car (very poorly in my un-expert opinion).

Given this, the damage to the rear tin, a serious dent in the left heat exchanger shroud, and a mildly compressed left bumper shock, I think it's safe to say this car got hit on the left rear at some point. My left and right tins have never engaged the EC rubber seal well--I'm hoping the EC is not misshapen from the collision. The gap at the front edge of my FI tin on both sides could be explained by mushrooming deformation at the front of the EC.

Intake manifolds were barely torqued down--no more than a few foot pounds--and there was no gasket sealer on the metal gaskets. I wonder if this explains my persistent rough idle (vacuum leak)?

My heat riser is an odd version, part number 043 129 701 B, with a larger than normal vacuum port under the carb. Google has few hits on this part and they are mostly in Dutch, but apparently that vacuum port is for a brake booster. But the riser pipes are completely open! Nice surprise.

Here is a real puzzler: this is a 76 car, and the engine case is a Brazilian AS21 replacement that I suspect was added sometime in the 90's or 2000's. But the oil cooler is the upright version that Bentley says was only used in the 1970 engines. And my fan shroud has no oil cooler bump out. Should I replace the shroud and cooler with the newer side-mounted version to improve cooling?

Finally, what is this red grommet under one of my case bolts? Looks like it doesn't belong there.

This is going to be fun!
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1976 Convertible Super Beetle, "June Bug".
FI-->34PICT3 carb conversion-->now dual 40 IDFs
Self-rebuilt 1904 (after totally botching a 1641 rebuild, cussing a lot, and throwing lots of cash in the fire)

[Cusser]

Well, one never know what will be found when purchasing an old VW. I didn't have this "experience" as my two VWs were just a couple of years old when I got them as 2nd owner in the 1970s.

Yes, you have the pre-1971 non-doghouse oil cooler. I would absolutely change over to doghouse stuff, and find a good used German doghouse fan shroud if possible.

Your 1976 will need the 1975-on cylinder shrouds due to the different body shape used, so you'd likely need to fix yours or hunt down used ones.

I use metal intake manifold to head gaskets, but use NO sealant there.

Good news is that you got the exhaust off without breaking any cylinder head studs, good job. I like the smaller-wrench-size brass nuts for those myself, same thread size.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

That intake manifold is for a Type2 (bus) from what I can find. Makes sense as as far as I know, only the type2 ever had a brake booster. Never on a Type1.

If you can find it (shouldn't be too hard) I would definitely upgrade to the doghouse style fan shroud and oil cooler. Try to get the later 70s one (also will come with the venturi "Velocity" ring for the fan intake for even better cooling.
Always some in the classifieds. Get Old german shrouds, with intake flaps/linkages if possible.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php...ton=Search

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php...ton=Search

Pic of one with the venturi ring

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1973 Standard Beetle
1600DP AK case
Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor

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[Starbucket]

The problem with wider tires on a Super is the alignment, struts (you will want to add a strut tower brace), and steering linkage need to be in better than stock shape or you will get the Dreaded Super Shimmies when you hit 50 MPH. Stock width tires work best on a stock super. The top is fairly easy EXCEPT putting in the rear window as the top gives when your helper is putting pressure on it while you pull the cord unlike a sedan which is easy.

[Q-Dog]

An intake manifold like that was also used on autostickshift cars to provide vacuum for the clutch servo.
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

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Yesterday I drained the transmission fluid. Hypoid oil looked like it was in good shape--not cloudy. But since the 17 mm hex head bolt was full of the original undercoating, I suspect that the fluid had never been drained. Is it possible that this is a 43 year old transmission that has never been rebuilt? It shifts fine, though the 1st and 2nd gear synchronizers are very picky about speed. Can put it into 2nd unless I'm going less than 5 mph.

The magnet on the underside of the bolt had about 1/8" of iron filings on it. See below before and after cleaning:

Will this work for replacement oil?

There is an odd port capped off on the back of my case, lower right (below oil pump housing). Size and shape of an exhaust port but it goes into the oil sump area of the case. This isn't pictured in images of most dual relief type 1 cases. What is this for?

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1976 Convertible Super Beetle, "June Bug".
FI-->34PICT3 carb conversion-->now dual 40 IDFs
Self-rebuilt 1904 (after totally botching a 1641 rebuild, cussing a lot, and throwing lots of cash in the fire)

[Cusser]

[sjbartnik]

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Engine is out and block completely disassembled and cleaned!

No major surprises. Removing the gland nut required a solid two minutes of pounding with an air impact wrench, but off it came. Didn't even really need to lock the flywheel.

Top end had visible rust in the cylinder heads, and heavily on the jug fins, on #2 and #4. Any reason why this should be there only on those? Rain coming in through the hood vent? I'm surprised the rust made it into the cylinders themselves, and that likely accelerated ring wear.

Some good news in the AS21 Brazilian universal case:

Crankshaft journals are quite smooth and will likely only need a polish.
Piston rods were all within tolerance for clearance to the crank -- 0.015" was the biggest gap at rod #1. The other three are 0.010-0.012.

No obvious cracks in the usual places. My #3 area under the flywheel does not have the built up case material, but looked free of cracks there and in the corresponding internal areas.

A couple of my case savers seem to have backed out a bit, or were never installed flush with the case surface. They are about 1 mm above flush. Is this an issue?

Not surprisingly, the bearing seats in the case have been pounded to the point that the bearing stamps are clearly visible in the case material. I'll take the case, crank, and camshaft to my machine shop tomorrow for inspection and likely align bore.
_________________
1976 Convertible Super Beetle, "June Bug".
FI-->34PICT3 carb conversion-->now dual 40 IDFs
Self-rebuilt 1904 (after totally botching a 1641 rebuild, cussing a lot, and throwing lots of cash in the fire)

[Starbucket]

0.015" = STRETCHED ROD AND THE OTHERS ARE BAD TOO
OR DO YOU MEAN 0.0015" WHICH IS OK? oops cap lock was on lol

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[Starbucket]

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[Cusser]

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