Convertible Top Boot - Snap Installation

[mnussbau]

I bought a new top boot for my ’74 convertible and decided to take step by step photos of the installation process. I bought a vinyl boot from CIP1, it’s made by TMI. Canvas would likely have been nicer but budget was a concern and the vinyl and construction do seem to be of excellent quality. The two retaining straps including plastic D-rings are sewn in to the boot.

Here’s the new boot fresh out of the box. Click the pics to enlarge.

The boot came with a snap fastener kit and 6-8 squares of spare vinyl. Each snap consists of a male portion called a screw stud, and a two-part female portion. The male portion screws into the body of the car. The female portion goes on the boot. The female portion consists of an outer piece called the button and an inner piece called a socket. The vinyl boot goes in between the inner and outer female pieces. The fastener kit comes with a base and flaring tool, which are used to join the two female halves.

The first thing I did was test fit the new boot on the car. The old boot was the original 35 year old canvas and had shrunken badly. The new boot is a bit larger, and will presumably fit over a fresh top. The outer surface of my top was replaced by the previous owner about 5 years ago, while the center foam layer and headliner are original.

Here’s a view from the back. Not trying to restart any controversy about whether the boot should be pulled all the way down or tucked underneath, but it’s large enough to pull it down and I think it looks better this way.

Some more views before installing the snaps. The tabs on the new boot sit about 2” lower on the body than the old boot. Again, I attribute this to my older top that folds lower than a new one would.

Here’s a comparison of old to new.

The snap package has instructions on the box. You need to punch a 5/32” hole into the boot where each snap will go. Lacking a punch of that size, I located a snap button by eye and pushed down hard. This created a mark on the vinyl that located where the hole would go.

Then I used the largest nail I could find and nailed it through the center of the mark into a board.

Using the base that came with the kit, I enlarged the hole using the button as the “punch”. I fit the base over the button and hit it through with a hammer. This did the job and opened the hole to the required size.

Make sure the button goes completely through the vinyl.

Now lay a socket over the button.

This view shows the end of the flaring tool. This will force the top edges of the button tube to roll over the socket, holding the two pieces together.

The barrel of the flaring tool slides up and down.

Place the flaring tool over the button/socket assembly so the small tapered end is centered inside the button. Place the base underneath the button on a hard surface, and make sure everything is straight. Hammer the flaring tool straight down until the socket and button are solid and tight.

Success!

Repeat 3 more times and you’re done. Here’s the result. I reused the male screw studs that were on the car, they were in good shape and snap right onto the new female portion perfectly.

Here’s how the boot straps are installed. Right side.

Left side.

The total amount of time to install all four snaps was only about 15-20 minutes including photos. It was easier than expected and I’m happy with how it all turned out.
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Mike
Sold my sedan
Parts...

[Cusser]

I recently replaced a broken snap on my boot cover with one from an extremely similar repair kit from Ace Hardware, easy. I just replaced the female part, the male part on the VW fir it, guess these are all standardized.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Cusser]

[BenneGu]

Thank you, excellent guide! Been looking for something like this for hours and hours.

A question. You mention 4 snaps. I only see 2 of them (on the cover), attaching to eash side of the car into the body. As shown on your pictures. Where are the remaing 2 located?

I have seen some comments about snaps to the hinge covers. Anyone happen to have photos of that arrangement? I lack those covers but I guess I can get hold of them if they are really needed for using the boot cover.


Just about to buy a canvas cover for my -73 SB. Soooo expensive in Europe, 50-75 % higher than US. Lucky you...freight and customs will eat up the saving to no point to order overseas. Which is what they figured out

Appreciate it!
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1973 1303 Convertible, 1974 1303S Limo/Sedan, 1971 Motobecane motorbike

[Epilog79]

The extra snaps go on the white hinge covers. There is one on each side of the rear seat. These hinge covers are usually cracked and broken. When I replaced my top 20 years ago, I had the hinge covers replaced as well. I chose not to screw in the snap for fear that is might break in the future. I only use the exterior snaps for the top cover and I have never had it try and fly away.

[BenneGu]

Hello again,

So I bought a fabric boot / cover and 2 new hinge covers (never had them before).

Getting ready to install the snaps. I Seems like som folks think the snaps are not needed on the hinge covers, while others do. Anyone else who can share some additional experience of this? Do the risk for cracked (and pretty expensive) covers increase a lot? Mine are made from fibre glass so I recon they are pretty strong! Was the original also fibre glass?

BTW, I have not been able to figure out how the soft top is connected to the body behind the boot. It fits so tightly against the body plate, it almost seems glued. Can it be loosened in a simple way? Need to do some paint job and would like to loosen/lift the top a little. Better to ask rather than ruing something expensive...

Thanks!

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1973 1303 Convertible, 1974 1303S Limo/Sedan, 1971 Motobecane motorbike

[Nessy]

[BenneGu]

Thank you Nessy!

That's very useful to know.

Snaps on covers: I also think the fibre glass version looks very sturdy, so I'll be installing the snaps there unless some other member add new info to the case. I'll also add some extra support behind the covers, so they are well supported against the chassis. And use large diameter washers for the screws holding them in place.

Soft top tightening mechanism, rear side: I'll try to locate the wire/nut tightening mechanism. Should anyone have a photo of it, and any tips&tricks to work on it, it would be great!
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1973 1303 Convertible, 1974 1303S Limo/Sedan, 1971 Motobecane motorbike

[d2305]

I can't open mine as the seals are rotted.

[BenneGu]

A follow-up:

Hinge covers installed, with some support material behind them to avoid cracks around the mounting screws. I have a special non OEM backrest, so had to attach it differently from original. In combo with the new cover think it is a great improvement in function (no oil stains on clothes) and looks. Even had my son to 3D print some plastic covers for the non-used cover holes.

Soft top tightening mechanism: Found the wire attachment with adjusting screws. I removed back rest and then it is easy to find (may be behind the inner fabric of the top). Easy to loosen and then the top can be removed easily. Great, simple design VW old school. Love it!

Thanks for all feedback.

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1973 1303 Convertible, 1974 1303S Limo/Sedan, 1971 Motobecane motorbike

[Nessy]

[BenneGu]

You might be right! Will give it a try thanks!
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1973 1303 Convertible, 1974 1303S Limo/Sedan, 1971 Motobecane motorbike

[BenneGu]

Attached is a picture of the wire and adjustment nut, securing the soft top against the body. Simple but effective design. Is hidden behind the hinge cover and inner roof liner. Again thanks for the tip.

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1973 1303 Convertible, 1974 1303S Limo/Sedan, 1971 Motobecane motorbike

[jeremyfd]

Brilliant. Just what I needed!

[ghiamanjc]

I've just purchased a boot for my Karmann Ghia.... I have about 10 snaps to affix. Should I start from one end and work around to the other side or start from the centre (ie middle of trunk) and put one snap on one side then the other?
I'm thinking the 2nd option as I can hide any errors on both ends. By doing the 1st method - If I make even a 3mm mistake with each snap, it will add up to a noticeable problem at the other end. Thx

[BenneGu]

[BenneGu]

[quote="Nessy"]