Code 16725 CPS(g40) implausible signal. 2004 jetta 2.0

[mattlockwood]

Replaced the timing belt and water pump on this car. Ran a little rough afterwards with an occasion crankshaft posn sensor error code. Rechecked my timing and I think I was one tooth off.

To recheck the timing, I made sure that the crankshaft (this is a automatic) line up so that the flywheel Mark was in the bottom of the window, while the camshaft arrow lined up with the mark on the head (off hand I think it’s the head, the “OT” mark)

Started it up and now have camshaft sensor code 16725, along with misfire codes for the ignition coil.

I’ve tested the cam position wiring , terminals 1 and 3 show 5 volts, but connecting terminal 2 to ground , I get 0 volts, even when I turn the motor over.

Here’s the tricky part- after fixing the timing, when I went to reconnect the neg batt cable, I thought I “heard something” from the throttle body area, like it was energizing... click click clickety click....It may have also come from the ECU area?

Fried ecu maybe? Just seems strange that after fixing the timing, I get new codes
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1970 Bay Window Bus.
110 hp 6 cyl Aircooled automatic

[TDCTDI]

Your timing is still off.

There should be an arrow on the lower timing cover roughly around the 12:30 mark, there will also be a notch on the pulley/harmonic balancer that should be lined up with that arrow. The cam gear has a notch that should also be lined up with it's corresponding arrow on the valve cover when the timing belt is tight on the NON-TENSIONED side.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[mattlockwood]

Thanks for your reply:

So- when I checked the timing, I made sure that fig5.1 and 3.6c were occurring simultaneously. I gnats assed this, checking and rechecking.

I had the harmonic balancer removed because I had to loosen/move the belt to readjust by 1 tooth. So I didn’t check for 3.6a.


So, my question is, if 3.6c and 5.1 are aligned simultaneously , 3.6a HAS to be true as well, right? How can it be otherwise?

Lots of algebra here, hope it makes sense.

_________________
1970 Bay Window Bus.
110 hp 6 cyl Aircooled automatic

[TDCTDI]

[mattlockwood]

Man, that stinks! Wrestling with the engine mount bolts (and having to get new ones now, yet again) isn’t fun.

I assume you mean do this with the belt off. Then ensure it’s taut on the non tension side, and THEN tighten the tensioner?
_________________
1970 Bay Window Bus.
110 hp 6 cyl Aircooled automatic

[TDCTDI]

You don't have to buy new bolts.

Yes, make sure that the non-tension side is taut & the timing mark is correct. If it's not, the cam will move counter-clockwise as you tension the belt.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.


GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!


An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.


Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it.

[mattlockwood]

Thanks for all your help:)
_________________
1970 Bay Window Bus.
110 hp 6 cyl Aircooled automatic

[Tvättbjörn]

If the bolts were tighten as per repair manual you better buy new bolts. I have seen plenty of cars with broken bolts! Which can result in a damaged motor mount and even a broken engine block where it bolts onto. . Also replace the upper two bolts for the same reason. There is a reason why they should be replaced. Almost every bolt on VW has to replaced after removing it. Same game since the 90's, Torgue to .. and turn several degree
- they stretch thats why the bolts are being replaced.

However, those timing marks rarely line up 100%. Best way is to mark the old belt while it is installed and transfer marks onto new belts. Your belt is off by one tooth.

[Butcher]

[volksworld]

you dont have to remove any mount bolts to move the belt a tooth...and i always changed them as per the manual until i kept trying to buy the bolts at the dealer and had to order them...because they didnt stock them...because they didnt replace them either...(and this was back when they were pretty new)...i just tighten them normally without the extra stretch turn