I just bought a Westy Single Cab! (1.6TD JX)

[old_man]

[old_man]

[old_man]

[old_man]

Really quick video sitting in my driveway after coming home from work. I didn't realize my cell would pick up the ambient noise of me moving about in the cockpit so much. I'll try to get a better one at some other point.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ZraqtYwIr-7cu7o887ITOM-L6weVWcYa


0-2s clutch is up
2-4s clutch is on the floor
4-11s clutch is up
11-12s clutch is on the floor
12-21s clutch is up
21-22s clutch is on the floor
22s on on wards clutch stays up, at 28s I start to rev the engine a little.

Thoughts?

[T3messie]

Can not hear anything abnormal except a missing muffler?
In my doka I went through 3 gearboxes with "losräderrasseln" until I changed the clutch, then there was silence. .

But Snow! Go for a spin.

[old_man]

[T3messie]

I replaced with a good used one I had and do not remember about the flyweel for sure, but probably not.

I suppose there were some loose springs on the noisy clutch.

[old_man]

Sitting in the parking lot at work.

[old_man]

[T3messie]

Just jealous. No snow here this winter so far. I never tried to add more weight to the back of my doka. Where do you put it, all at the back of the flatbed? How do you secure it?

[old_man]

[old_man]

So today I decided to tackle the timing belt before going to work. I took a lot of pictures and then about halfway through I stopped. Here goes.

Here are some of the specialty tools I used. There is a belt tension tool, a dial gauge, a dial gauge holder, a extension rod for the dial gauge, a cam timing tool/plate, and a metal cylinder to lock the pump.

I left the truck outside because I didn't want all the snow to melt in the garage and flood it. My work garage doesn't have slope or good drainage. This is what I was dealing with.

The first step for me was to insert the dial gauge and holder to see if it fit. It would be a shame to go through everything and then realize the tool you need didn't fit. I had to remove a coolant line and an oil line(turbo)

I got the first pullet off. I didn't realize it at the time but those holes aren't equally spaced out. I could fit an impact in there so it was easy to get off. I pulled the muffler for room.

I also pulled that coolant holding tank. What a PITA that is. Barely enough room between the bumper and body to get a tool in.

More evidence of a PO who had a thing for using random hardware.

This is with the covers off. I had to pull the water pump pulley as well. Note the orientation of the tensioner, I certainly didn't at the time.

Off comes the valve cover. Air filter can removed for ease of access.

Ensure that the entire gasket is off. I almost got caught by this. It's hidden where I can't easily see it.

TDC

TDC confirmed with valves. Both #1 pointed up.

Not a good picture by there is a side shot of where that cam plate slides into.

Before taking the belt off I wanted to see where it was to know what kind of adjustment I would need and to double check that my technique for measure was working. I'm still at the point that I can put everything back together, I haven't 'untimed' it yet.

At TDC dial guage zeroed with 5mm of preload.

Cranked backwards until the needle stops. Shows about -0.9mm. I then zeroed it there with 4mm of preload.

This is it rotated it back to TDC. Shows 0.9mm of lift. This is the factory setting. My research indicates 1.0mm is generally accepted as the best for the JX (1.6TD). This is what I set.

All the belts and tensioner off.

Plate in.

New belt on.

This was the procedure I used. I loosened the cam bolt and gear (without the timing plate in). I then inserted the plate it and the pin into the pump. The belt and tensioner came off. New belt and tensioner came in.

I think I made a mistake getting the tensioner on. You can either tension it by rotating it clockwise or by rotating it counter clockwise. The previous tensioner was the latter and that is what I should have done but I didn't. I have since rectified this. Unfortunately, no pictures.

To time the sucker I put the pin in the pump and then ignored it. The pump comes later (just like a distributor). I then made sure that the crank is at TDC (it will wander for some reason). I made sure the cam plate is still in. I then put my tension gauge on and adjusted the tensioner. Last is to torque down the cam bolt. Boom. Done.

Next was to do a complete 720 of the crank clockwise to make sure that nothing is really messed. I then re-checked tension and timing. Tension needed to be adjusted. I had to put the pin and plate back in, loosen the cam bolt, put the tension gauge on and re-tensioned it. Rertorque cam bolt and another 720 for recheck. All is good.

Now we can do the injection pump. Pin and cam plate removed. Go to TDC, insert dial gauge with a some preload (2mm min). Then rotate the crank counter clockwise until the gauge stops moving.

Interesting side note here. Depending on how cheap of a dial gauge adapter you get it may bind slightly and not follow the pin into the pump when it retracts. You may have to put a little bit of pressure on the top of the dial gauge to make sure it's seated. Hard to explain, I wish I had taken a picture.

Once you have gone backwards and the dial gauge stops zero it. Then rotate crack clockwise until you see TDC on the flywheel. If you over shoot the flywheel I recommend you go backwards a fair bit and then go forward again. I was having issues if I just went backwards and stopped. Almost like there is some back lash in the system. You always want to stop on the clockwise rotation. Take a look at your dial gauge. That is your setting.

If you are not happy with your setting insert your pin and loosen the 4 bolts/nuts. Rotate the pump (with the pin still in there) until you have the setting you desire. Tighten those 4 bolts/nut and remove the pin. Recheck pump timing. Rinse, lather, repeat until you are happy. At that point you are done.

Put it all back together. Done.


Found on the cover.

Took a test drive on my into work. Overall I am quite happy. I, once again, re-adjusted the throttle cable. The truck has a lot more power and is smoother. I can comfortable go 110km/hr up hills. I could not before. There might be a bit more smoke under full load but it's hard to tell. Not sure how to fix that, vwdiesel.net seems to be down. I shall see how it starts in the morning when I leave work and the truck has cold soaked all night. I'm not convince my glow plugs are all working.


My replacement mirrors from Japan came in. Turns out they are actually from Brazil. I'm going to have to google these a bit more.

A better shot of where my weight rests.

[?Waldo?]

Glad to hear it is running well.

A couple details... You are actually supposed to rotate the tensioner clockwise, the PO had it wrong. It gives better wrap on the cam sprocket that way.

I feel a little concern about your described procedure and when you tensioned the belt. The pump lock should not be in and the cam sprocket should still be able to rotate on the cam when tensioning the belt. If pump pin is in and/or cam sprocket cannot rotate you then the tensioning reading is skewed. Also, just prior to tensioning the belt, you should rotate CCW a few degrees and then back CW to TDC without going past. That places all belt slack in the tensioner area. Then tension the belt, then set the cam sprocket. VW also specs placing equal feeler gauges on either side of the cam lock plate to take up any movement there.

You could turn the max fuel screw down slightly if you are concerned about the full pedal smoke. You might have to turn your idle up a little afterwards.

My favorite way to test the individual glow plugs is to cycle them a couple times on a cold engine and then use my multimeter with temperature probe to measure the temp of the head right next to the glow plugs. It is easy to tell which ones are good and which are not. When ever I have the injectors out I always turn the key to ON and look down into the injector holes to confirm that all four are glowing well.

[Zeitgeist 13]

Minor pedantic detail, but you have your cam lock in there backwards. Those tangs are supposed to rest on the horizontal surface where the VC gasket sits.

Also, what's that pin with the black plastic knob?
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[?Waldo?]

I think the pin with the black knob might be for a late AAZ or ALH with the hub/sprocket setup.

[Zeitgeist 13]

Ah, that makes sense. I've seen that tool before with other t-belt tool kits, but never in this context. Just wondering I'd been missing out on something all these years.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[old_man]

[T3messie]

I never had the coolant or oil line in the way. Maybe my adapter is shorter?
But well done, it is a very satisfying job.

Did you check the valve clearance while you where inside the head?

[old_man]

[old_man]

Couldn't start the truck at work this morning. Cold soaked to -13C. It felt like it firing on only 2 cylinders.

I had just ordered new glow plugs to. Relay as well.