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Zero Compression
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halfassleatherworks
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 10:31 am    Post subject: Re: Zero Compression Reply with quote

what does the head look like
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Mberglo
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 10:39 am    Post subject: Re: Zero Compression Reply with quote

slalombuggy wrote:
I was right, the rings were stuck Shocked Laughing

Talk to Roy at MOFOCO for a kit and some good cooling heads.


Thanks!
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Mberglo
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 11:26 am    Post subject: Re: Zero Compression Reply with quote

halfassleatherworks wrote:
what does the head look like


like a piece of scrap.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Mberglo
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 1:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Zero Compression Reply with quote

All of the damage likely occurred when I first started it, before we refreshed the engine. The new spark plug is undamaged, and I didn't empty any debris when I removed the head. Marvel Mystery Oil would have been a good idea on retrospect.
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turbotype1
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 2:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Zero Compression Reply with quote

Mberglo wrote:
All of the damage likely occurred when I first started it, before we refreshed the engine. The new spark plug is undamaged, and I didn't empty any debris when I removed the head. Marvel Mystery Oil would have been a good idea on retrospect.


That damage was done years ago.... Thats why it was parked for 8 years...
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This new fad of get it the lowest, or run it with the worst looks, (patina) isn't cool, it's for the hey everyone look at me crowd, i'm driving a beat down ratty, unsafe, VW, how cool am I ???...your not....




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volksworld
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 5:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Zero Compression Reply with quote

X2...NONE of that just occurred...the previous owner fried it, ran it into the ground, and parked it cause he couldnt afford to fix it...which described most of the buses back in the day
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SBD
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 9:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Zero Compression Reply with quote

Popcorn
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mark tucker wrote:
I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2020 6:54 am    Post subject: Re: Zero Compression Reply with quote

Mberglo wrote:
My daughter has a hippy soul and she dreams of seeing the US through the windshield of a bus. We found this very original Westfalia, and I knew she'd love it. My plan is to make it absolutely new underneath so I can send her and her boyfriend on their adventure with confidence. He's helping me, so he'll know what to do on the side of the road. Aside from the engine, we installed new CV shafts, new shocks, new brakes, and am about to do front ball joints and steering components. We installed new shifter bushings and adjusted clutch cable. We'll install a set of General Grabbers once it's roadworthy. The kids can do the cosmetic stuff like interior.

Thanks again for the input.


If you’re attempting to make the vehicle as reliable as possible to travel the US, don’t simply fix what needs fixing like simply replacing a piston/cyl set. Send the trans out to be completely gone through, and completely rebuild the engine. That way, you are 100% sure moving forward that things are in proper operating order to start. Not doing so is relying on someone elses experience, or severe lack of, or 49 year old parts that may be perfectly fine/fail 10 miles down the road. It’s hard enough to find a knowledgeable shop to work on 50 year old Aircooled VW’s local to you, but they usually don’t break down beside one hundreds of miles away from home. With the amount of heat that took to melt the piston in your pic, the case is most likely warped, and the 10mm headstuds are starting to pull out of the magnesium. You may end up with not having anything reusable out of the engine.

It’s great you have the experience to build show/race cars, but did any of them have engines that simply “got running”, or were they completely rebuilt?

And yes, you can buy a performance Ford, or Chevy engine for what you can build a VW engine for. VW’s are MUCH less common. You can buy a set of modern V8 connecting rods cheaper than a set of 4 VW ones because Summit Racing sold 1000 sets compaired to 1 VW set last month.

turbotype1 wrote:
That damage was done years ago.... Thats why it was parked for 8 years...


We’re not trying to “judge” you. We just simply have more experience of dumb ass previous owners lack of maintenance. Simply putting bandaids on things on an Aircooled VW is significantly setting your daughter up for failure in the future. You need to take the same approach to the engine/trans that you already have to the suspension/brakes/tires.
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rugblaster
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2020 8:50 am    Post subject: Re: Zero Compression Reply with quote

The damage is fairly typical of what was seen back in my dealership days. I too bought a '69 camper back in the eighties from a fellow from Utah who was traveling through Texas in the midday heat, and I'm talking about 100 degrees plus. This poor guy had his motor gone through by someone in Utah before his trip. The weather in Utah is quite different than down here in northern Mexico. He melted a hole in the number 3 piston of a new motor and he was done with Volkswagens.

It was always a combination of too much ambient heat, too much compression, too lean of a mixture, too much timing, pushing the bus too fast and not enough oil cooling.

The engine I built for my bus, and the intention was to use my experience to eliminate as many heat causing variables as possible, has no more than 7.5 to 1 compression, the fuel is always the best pump gas I can find, 92 octane Sunoco. The timing is a total of no more than 30 degrees, total, the oiling system includes a full flow plumbed filter and cooler, a type 4 dog house cooler mod and deep sump and a oil temp gauge. Lastly, not twisting her tail too hard, rarely over 65 mph. The highway traffic around here routinely reaches 85 to 90 mph, these buses won't do that for long.
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volksworld
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2020 9:34 am    Post subject: Re: Zero Compression Reply with quote

the weak link of a vw engine has always been the magnesium case...designed to save weight and money it was considered a throwaway part in the 60's...they generally beat their thrust bearings loose in the case ....in buses i've seen this happen at 30,000 miles....this resulted in blocks being bored for oversize bearings with thicker thrusts to save them...but the tooling used to do this(porta tool line boring bars that centered in the front case hole and the rear seal hole and were driven by an electric drill) was no way as precise as how it was done at the factory so as they say "your results may vary"....so simply put the best way to wind up with something reliable is to start with a new case....so when you want to freshen your 289, your block is good and might not even need to be bored...your heads freshen up with a standard valve job ( most dual port vw heads crack between the intake seat and the plug hole even on engines that havent been particularly abused and you have to buy new ones...since your ford actually has an oil filter your crank might not even need to be cut and theres less wear on all the internal parts...and it doesnt run 2 lifters on each cam lobe....most bus ring and pinions are in the 500 range so its spent its life revving twice as high as your ford....and if its so fubar that its not worth rebuilding decent ford cores are more readily available, where any vw core you may find is probably just as screwed up as your original....these vehicles had no gauges, only held 3 qts of unfiltered oil, and were always a broken fan belt away from a complete meltdown
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rugblaster
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2020 10:37 am    Post subject: Re: Zero Compression Reply with quote

VWoA never authorized line boring (we did it anyway) they required the case to be replaced with a new one if it was a warranty deal. While there were case problems, thrust, hammered bearing saddles, pulled studs etc, most of the problems related to dropped exhaust valves and the resulting damage. Sometimes, depending on the rpm the exhaust valve failed, the damage was extensively catastrophic. It wasn't if the valve heads would pop off, but when.
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'69 Karmy, '69 Camper, Meyers clone, '65 drag bug, 10.78 @ 128 (sold it) '51 Dodge farm truck,
'09 MB E350 '18 MB E400, '65 Plymouth Valiant convertible and a '19 Ford F250 King Ranch (nicer, but dirty, farm truck)

VWoA factory trained line tech 75 till 90 or so
ASE Master Certification
VWoA Assoc. of Quality Technicians inductee (One of 25 in the five state southwest region)
La Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin (San Angelo Chapter)
TCU ......GO FROGS!!!!!!
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