63 notch hacked up

[65wagon]

follow up....

got my new parts in and while going over the installation
of the new brake parts, I noticed gear oil on my drum and on the axle.
rookie needs to ask if this normal or is simply in need of a new axle seal kit,
your thoughts ? From what I have read, the hole is part
of the tell that acts as precaution to prevent gear oil
from getting on the brakes a bleed out location if you will.
the back side of the plate is grimy which I've yet to clean
and verify as of yet but wanted some additional comments.

[sjbartnik]

Oil should not get past the bearing housing and into the drum. If it does, there is a weep hole that is supposed to allow the oil to drain out onto the backing plate rather than get in the drum and foul the brakes.

If I'm remembering correctly the Bentley says that a little bit of residue on the backing plate below the drain is acceptable but if you have enough to constitute a leak then that's too much. I know, very subjective.

However it can also leak a bit if left to sit with the rear axle nut un-torqued so that may just be the problem.

You can either put it all together and see if it leaks when it's all torqued to spec or you can just do a seal kit while you're in there.

I had one suddenly get leaky and I was alerted to this fact by noticing the smell of gear oil when I got near the car. Looking under I found pretty significant leakage from the weep hole and also some had made its way down the axle and gotten flung around inside the hubcap.
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[65wagon]

ahhh yeah thats it, the weep hole, indeed I'll clean off the backing
plate and see if I can spot the tell...kits are cheap
enough i suppose I'd be better of just getting the kit
for peace of mind, considering everything else I'm finding
its probably bad. Agreed torquing it down is the only way
to find out =0(

thx, Phil

[65wagon]

Hey guys went with the new drums 5x130 pattern / 4 lug option I compared my bug drum to new drum and spline area measures differently I assume my car was converted to short axle and I’ll need to mill down the center nub on the drum. Is there a diagram or measurement available so I can determine which axle I actually have. Out side nub measure about half inch longer on new drum. I read and I want to get clarification on where to measure, from the oil reflector to the back of the axle nut with cotter pin inserted without drum on to verify the length of how much material to remove from drum that being either 5/8 or 9/16 from what I have read.

[65wagon]

Update: machined down snout of new drums 9/16th and found that I may need to take it down a tad more as I can not get cotter pin in or torque it to 217 lbs to get me home? It’s almost there here is my concern when In to replace axle seal I noticed two things the washer was not present that follows the wheel bearing #7 I have added it could this be the issue is there a case where it’s not used I ask because I don’t have oil deflector in earlier years and use beetle drums so lots of mods done on this car.

Here is a pic no washer after wheel bearings

[65wagon]

Been a hot minute, but hoping to get back working on the car again, I moved so it’s been on hold. Question for you gurus, when I picked up this car it had 205-60 r15 in the rear and 195 50 r15 in the front, I like the way the wheels are tucked and intend to use same tire setup. I assume this front beam is stock but want to make sure as I intend to replace it with a type one, my preference for where I’m going w the car. Probably going all new setup spindle to spindle, I’m trying to gauge what beAm should be acquired in terms of width, what measurements are needed, has disc brakes from a ghia is what I’ve been told don’t think it’s factory.

Thx

[Bobnotch]

Honesty, I don't know how much narrower the T-1 beam is to a T-3 beam is. I've heard that if you want shocks, you don't narrow it too much. You can narrow it up some, but keep in mind how much offset you get from the spindles, and work from there. That's the thing, nobody makes narrowed spindles for a type 3. They do make narrowed arms for it (Old Speed). But Bert is the only one that makes lowered t-3 spindles (not narrowed).
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[65wagon]

Still on fence about where I want to go with the engine, car was setup with a type 1, if I revert back to a type three engine what needs to be undone , a make shift bar was used to support the type one I assume for the type 3 this is what the mustache bar is for? Where are the mounts supposed to go exactly on a type 3 as some of the rear cargo bay has been hacked away for a type 1 setup. Also any mods to trans and what not？

[65wagon]

Just came across a post that noted the mustache bar was not necessarily to engine support, that said the type 3 is supported mostly by trans bolts?

[Mike Fisher]

[Bobnotch]

[65wagon]

Thanks guys, I like the stance too! A few things too update on, rear end as far as rear torsion bar has been replaced along with new drums and lines and new rear suspension, haven’t finished buttoning up the brake lines just yet as a few minor things are needed, had the snouts turned down and seems all good
Thanks for all the pointers. Still thinking about repairing rear cargo hatch
If I can find a great local deal on that rear section than I may decide to go for it
I now see the “grab handle” you guys are speaking of, mine is no longer present, out of curiosity is that due to a heavier engine or just more torque
On a stock setup type 3 vs type 1. When I removed the engine I noticed an additional brace was added for the trans, it braced it to the horns/ torsion bar I assume because of the larger motor that was put in? My brace was home made as the tabs were welded on the horns that allows the brace to be bolted into the tabs and my replacement rear torsion housing doesn’t have so I’ll rig up something similar.

[65wagon]

Folks I read some where here that a 63 notchback has a slightly smaller engine bay , I’m still thinking about what sort of engine I want to run, don’t really want a type 1 , I really like the idea of using a Subaru setup and understand the difficulties associated with this and doing more research on the process, the cost for me to acquire an entire car seems really reasonable probably under 500.00.
My car is far from original which for me why I’m considering alternatives. Is space an issue if going with a subi non turbo n would an automatic vs manual matter since I’m going to use my stock tranny until it burns out?

[notchboy]

No. The Suby will take up less space side to side and front to back. Height though will be tough if you want to close the engine hatch.
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[65wagon]

Folks what’s the scoop here with front disc brakes. From what others have noted my front setup is not stock as far as brakes go. I’m going fwd and installing new disc brakes up front , current setup has backing plates, were these always In use for type 3? I’ve decided on a type one beams as I’m converting and won’t get into the whys as we know it’s been discussed xxxxx, I watched some of the installations on line w these empi upgrade kits like and no backing plate is installed , my new setup will be type 1 beam , disc brakes 130mm 5 lug installed into my 63

Thx

[Bobnotch]

[65wagon]

Thx for the comment, I am using dropped spindles as well for my new set up so is that the issue with not seeing a backing plate when I see some of these installation videos? If dropped spindles for type 1 the. The backing plate is essentially not used in many cases?

[Bobnotch]

[65wagon]

Thank you that helps ! With my type one beam should I be good to use my steering box n pitman from my type 3 beam what’s the advice here?

Thx Phil

[65wagon]

Guys how can I best determine what type of master cylinder would be best I’ve got drums in the rear and a type 1 front end w new disc brakes and thought it be best to upgrade to a dual circuit on my 63 type 3? Original master cylinder is a single circuit.

Thx Phil