Alaskan 85 Weekender, 1.8T (AWM), 5 speed conversion

[xoo00oox]

You can use the transmission that is already bolted to that engine by either adapting the hubs with some machine work, having someone make up adapters to allow your CVs to bolt up or by replacing the hubs with the 100mm CV type.

I've found that it is often cheaper to just buy an older transmission that already has the 100mm hubs on it. Search car-part.com and look at 1988 Audi 80 transmssion , there are a few there right now for a couple hundred bucks.

[Zeitgeist 13]

I suppose one option would be to cut the inboard end off of a Passat axle and weld it to a shortened Vanagon axle. I assume any place that builds custom driveshafts could handle this.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[tristessa]

Seems like a lot of work compared to just swapping flanges and using stock or 930 CV's depending on which flanges you use...

[Zeitgeist 13]

So, can you just swap the small early style flanges with those larger late units?
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[xoo00oox]

[akmush]

Tools arrived! Head bolt tool (6 point, 10 mm) and 3m roloc bristle disc for prepping surfaces for new gaskets. This is one of those tools that I never would have known about but now do thanks to wisdom of samba posters.

[akmush]

Head is now off.

[akmush]

Block showing pistons. There is some wetness around cylinder 4. The cylinder cover gasket was clearly leaking but this looks to be also around head gasket.

[akmush]

Question for those with much greater engine rebuilding wisdom, what is cause for visible presence of oil around #4? Rings? No big deal or big deal?

Also, you can see that I have left many hoses /accessories still attached. Is there good reason to strip everything off at this point? I will be doing slight modifications to piston per Andrew's thread then putting bottom end back together...

[Vanagon Nut]

To my eye, it appears cylinders 3 and 4 might be "wet" ?

For my vw gas inline engine rebuild, I used a good quality carpenters straight edge (from Lee Valley IIRC) and feeler gauges to measure for head warpage. What I found (no warpage) was confirmed by a machine shop. No issues with head et al after ~ 20K km's.

I started these threads re: rebuilding my ABA 2.0 vw engine:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8232730&highlight=warpage#8232730

I know it's a bunch to weed through but the replies to my questions might have relevant tips for your rebuild.

Neil.
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[xoo00oox]

[akmush]

Vanagon nut- Thanks for pointing me to your thread, I will definitely take a look.

Andrew- That's a relief. I went ahead and pulled all accessories off. Amazing to me how small the case and bottom end are by themselves and that this little block can generate so much potential HP.

[akmush]

More progress and some more questions. I will not be removing my crankshaft, just pistons and rods, correct? Special tool for removing toothed belt gear for crankshaft so I can get in and make modification to oil pump? And finally, poster named "foodeater" posted that he can make oil pump bracket. Anyone know if he is still willing to do this?

[/i]

[xoo00oox]

You need to take the crank out to fix the ring that the crank sensor reads from. The crank bolt to get the oil pump cover off is just a 10mm 12point. It’ll be on there good, I use a 3/4 impact to remove them.

EDIT! It’s a 19mm socket, not 10mm

[tristessa]

akmush, did any of those emails I sent you get through? Sometimes when I send things they wind up in people's spam folders, and I haven't figured out why...

X2 on taking off the timing belt sprocket, front main seal housing and pulling the crank. Beyond fixing the crank sensor ring, it also gives you a chance to check all the bearings and journals "just in case", even if you put it all back together exactly how it was before.

[Vanagon Nut]

When I first saw that bolt I was like "what?". ... I use a 19 mm 12 point socket to get the crank pulley bolt off. And YMMV, use at your own risk, but with engine on stand, since I wasn't re-using the flex plate, I bolted a bar to the auto tranny flex plate, braced bar against a post to allow crank pulley bolt removal. Use a known good reliable torque wrench to re install new crank pulley bolt. (Don't ask. Yes I have pictures. lol. )

Safety first!

Neil.

[vanagonjr]

[akmush]

Andrew- Thanks for clarification. Never done engine teardown all the way to crankshaft, yikes! New territory for me...

tritessa- I did get you pm. Thanks! Wiring harness will be later step and new territory as well!

Vanagon Nut- Thanks for sharing your method. I will be attempting something similar.

vanagonjr- Thanks for sharing your variation as well. It all helps!

[akmush]

Getting ready to remove crank pulley nut. Question- do I need to set engine at spot like TDC and make paint mark? Or, is this not necessary as I will be removing crank and effectively starting from scratch?

[xoo00oox]