Front Shock Tower Issue

[L8ndeb]

Hello All,

When I bought my project Manx wannabe, admittedly I knew next to nothing about them or VW's for that matter. When I got it home, I noticed that the front shock towers had worn holes through the fiberglass. Didn't think much of it at the time. I just glassed up the holes and got on with fixing up this poor thing.
It's nearing time to test fit the body, after fixing holes, cracks, etc. I put the body on, and low and behold, the body is resting on the top of the front shock towers.
It's a '61 chassis. Stock except for disk brake conversions. Anybody have any ideas why this is happening, and what I can do to remedy the problem?

TIA

[oprn]

Mine does not have this problem but 2 solutions come to my mind. Cut the shock towers down a wee bit and re-weld them or put a small lift between the pan and body.

I suppose you could also build little bubbles in the fiberglass right where the towers are but that might be ugly...

[gtrplyr]

One way to get there is a 2" body lift and dropped spindles. Just a thought.

[mini t]

you can also change from the link pin beam to a ball joint beam the shock towers curve out words that should give you the clearance you need

[manxdavid]

[bugvert]

I think most buggies have little to no clearance in the area of the body near the shock towers with the kingpin front end.

The cracks are caused by the weight of the gas tank on the body causing the front end to sag and flex.

I would just re-glass and reinforce the area, its not visible with the hood on and add support braces under the gas tank to the top of the torsion beam. It helps the front from flexing and keeps the area from re-cracking.

[Dale M.]

On my buggy since shock tower contact was inside the boundaries of hood, I just glasses in a bubble to gain tower clearance...

Easiest solution if you don't what to rework body and you have welder or have buddy with one would be to shorten shock tower and then use a shorter shock (for lowered suspension) ...

Also as mentioned above brace gas tank (front apron of body) off the two stock body mounts on front beam... You will be surprised how much it stiffens front fenders from flopping...

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[L8ndeb]

Thanks to all that responded. The body already has a "bubble" area on each side
inside the boundaries of the hood (as Dale put it). It's just not deep enough. I'm guessing it would take another good 1/2" to be ok. I'm thinking of taking off the top area of the flange that goes around the tower that is used for spot welding. I would just need to weld that area shut again, grind flat, and I think it would be pretty close. Anybody see any issues with that?

TIA

[Q-Dog]

Mine was sagging a good bit and the body bounced off the top of the shock towers on every bump. Also, the gas tank was hitting on some of the front suspension. So, I made and installed the Z brakets that Bruce included on the Manx build sheet. Maybe try to jack up the body and see if this could solve you issue, before you start cutting.

_________________
Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[legotech7]

Dale M., I just saw your post about the shock towers, and I have the same issues. If you don't mind , could you elaborate on what you did to make the " bubble " as you mentioned. What did you use to make the curve over the towers, with out getting any fiberglass al over the place, assuming thats what you did. Thanks a bunch. And if you took any pics, that would help as well.

Thanks again...

[didget69]