I just bought a Westy Single Cab! (1.6TD JX)

[Abscate]

That bus bar has a lot more current capacity as well as fatigue resistance than the wire approach, put it back in in Spring. Wires will be ok for winter if you add more chafe relief and zip tie them close to each connection.
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.ssS!

[old_man]

So my adapter for my oil temp sensor finally came in the mail. Because my sensor is quite long I needed to make an extension. I just went to the hardware store, found a brass adapter, drilled it, tapped it.

It all worked in the end. I lucked out and when I tightened the adapter the hole faced upwards. Had it faced downwards I probably would have had to put in a spacer or washer or something.

Highway run and the temp stayed around 210. Highest I saw was 217. This is of course post oil cooler. The reason I placed it here and not elsewhere is I wanted the sensor in a spot that saw oil flow. If I had just tee-ed it off where oil pressure switches are it wouldn't be in flow and thus wouldn't give very good readings.

Is this the same temperature as the oil coming out the turbo or off the bearings? No. This will, however, set a base line and show trend. It will also show if the oil has become saturated with heat and can no longer shed it as fast as it is absorbing it.

[old_man]

So I'm still having a problem of really high EGTs.

It could be the probe/gauge.

It could also be something else. I'm going to check the timing with a different dial indicator as well as the valves. Maybe something is a miss there.

Could a bad injection pump be causing this? Are there any easy tests? Will a standard golf/jetta pump work? Lots of room under a sinka/doka deck lid.

In 4th gear this thing will go north of 1500F without any effort. Any slight incline means a lot of deceleration or else the needle will peg at 1500F.

Interesting thing. I am cruising at 105km/hr and the EGTs are good. If I hit an incline and don't change the throttle position the RPMs/speed will slowly decrease and the EGTs will rocket upwards.

I don't know what else I could check.

[old_man]

I measure all the valves. Hot/warm the worst intake as at 0.18mm and almost all the exhausts were at 0.33mm. Not what they should be but nothing too bad I feel. I doubt it is the cause of higher EGTs. I need to buy some shims now.

I also retimed the bastard once again. I think my issues are with my no-so-good dial gauge set up. I think this time I have it though. I really tighten everything on that set up and I was getting the exact same results over and over again when I was rotating the crank shaft.

Starts nice now, drives nicely now. Still easy to get it bast 1500F though. Is that normal? Would more boost/air help?

Edit: I forgot to mention. I filled up before the lastest adjustment. I averaged 20mpg and no black smoke.

[T3messie]

The valve clearances are ok. I never measured egt so I have nothing real to say about that, but I would try a little later injection just for curiosity.

Simply mark the position of the pump to the console and rotate it a little, this way you can avoid new timing procedure.

I get 39 mpg with my JX when really careful with the right and never using the left pedal but in normal driving never under 30.

[old_man]

[Jake de Villiers]

[old_man]

Hopefully this tank the mileage is better with the new timing.

I turned the boost in one complete turn. Peak boost I saw was 16psi. What a difference it made. Lot cooler now. Much more difficult to exceed 1400. Previously on the same hill I would crest at 95kph bouncing off the EGT peg at 1500. Now I crest at 1375 and 110kph. Still easy to over temp between 80 and 100kph, just at the bottom of 4th gear.

Hopefully the mighty JX can handle the added boost. vwdiesel.net seems to think so.

[old_man]

So bunch of stuff today.

It started with me deciding to recheck the pump timing. I realized, overnight, that I may have not double checked that the cold start handle was in. I have read that if you leave it out and try to time your pump it will only cause you problems. I sometimes forget it because it doesn't really seem to do much. On the plus side I am getting real good at taking the muffler off.

The timing was bang on. Good news, it means it's not changing on me. I then decided to check a couple of other things i have been reading about on the interwebs. This is all in hopes of lowering EGTs.

The first is the advance timing mod. Turns out that I don't have an extra shim and thus no mod to be done. The bad part of all this is that I dropped one of the washers when I was putting everything back together. I couldn't find it, it fell in one of the many bottomless pits. Not only is it a special washer but I feared it fell in behind the timing belt.

I must find that washer. Off goes the muffler again, and all the pulleys, and the timing belt overs. All of them. Washer found. Put everything back together.

The next thing I wanted to check out pressure relief valve (youtube). It was fine. Looked brand new.

Lastly, I finally got around to replacing my fuel return lines on the injectors. This is the Home Depot fuel line. I think it's meant for oil furnaces so I imagine it's fine for diesel. Probably not gasoline. OooOOOoo orange.

I decided to go for a drive to see if somehow something affected my EGTs. Truck had difficulty starting. No surprise, I introduced air into the pump. Eventually started. Then the fun began. Truck would drive fine but would die at idle. I figured a bit of air was still kicking around and a good drive on the highway should purge it all out. Nope. Drove fine on the highway for 20 min. Dies on at the stop sign on the off ramp. Start it up with difficulty and it idles fine. Go for a drive, it won't idle afterwards. Bubbles in the fuel line after it dies. None after it starts when it's idling.

I managed to get it home and then thought about it. I think I didn't do a good job of cleaning the cover for the advance timing mod. Not a good seal. When that piston retracted on decel it must draw air into the pump. That's what I am guessing was happening. I cleaned and resealed it. Seems to work fine now.

Then a few things in my mind clicked. Important to have cold start handle in while timing and cold start handle appears to do nothing. Upon inspection with the handle fully in the leaver on the pump was not resting against the stop. This guy is the reason.

He was in the right place. He was in that recess of the cold start cable. Unfortunately, he should have been on the other side of the bracket. It was really hard to take pictures to describe the situation

This is how the cable should be.

This was the leaver before I fixed it.

This is after.

This is where that little guy belongs.

This is difficult to see on a sinka/doka because my head has to actually be in the engine compartment upside down to get a look. The hatch, again, being a good 10 inches higher and smaller.

So time to time it once more....off goes the muffler, for the third time today. Initial timing was something like 0.8mm or 0.9mm, I forget. New timing back to 1.0mm. I can now time the pump in 42min from grabbing tools to putting them away.

Test drive was interesting. I dialed the boost a little back. Boost gauge may be acting up a bit, I think one of the connections is wet. EGTs are now lower and it feels like it has more power. I can still get it to the peg at 1500F but I really have to bury my foot going up hill.

My readings show that the cold start valve advances the timing but only at idle. Not at speed. Hopefully this explains my bad mileage as well.

TL;DR I think I fixed it. Cold start handle was stuck on.

[?Waldo?]

Regarding the cold start lever... the little round cylindrical part that the cable bolts into is supposed to have two little flexible bushings (one on each side) which mounts it more solidly in the cold start lever.

Your timing being off can negatively affect fuel economy. 20 is pretty bad for one of these. If you're using the big imperial gallons for you're MPG calcs, that's really bad.

[old_man]

[?Waldo?]

That screw holds in a little metal rod that is the pivot point for a lever that is part of the boost fuel enrichment. It is not used for any purging of air. Later pumps just have a pressed in ball bearing. There is not typically any need to purge air after the first minute that the engine has been running after opening the fuel system unless air is infiltrating into the fuel system through leaks. Clear lines are very helpful for diagnosing that type of situation.

[old_man]

[old_man]

Update: 11.25l/100km. Not very good.

Bad/dirty injector? - I could get the cleaned/tested
Warn pistons/cylinders? - I could do a compression test
Low internal pump pressure? - I keep reading about this and how to test/adjust it put all readings point to a thread on a now defunct webforum. Anyone know how?

[old_man]

Well, I bite the bullet and got rebuilt injectors. They came from Giles.

Old #1

Might be the originals.

The new #1

#2

#3

#4

I encountered some difficulty. Firstly, I still couldn't get one of the fuel pipes off the pump. I tried everything, even a torch (not the brightest idea but I took precautions.). I would not separate from the fuel valve. I ended up just rotating the fuel valve a little. Got the fuel pipe out of the way of the injectors so it worked in the end.

Secondly the injectors were stubborn getting out. I was quite worried about breaking one the the bosses on the head as I have read so much about it. I ended up using an impact driver on two of them and a full on impact wrench on one. I then took my time turning them out a bit and then back in a tiny bit repeatedly until they were fully unscrewed. I didn't really like the idea of using an impact wrench but others seem to have had success with the technique. It also how seems to provide the right type of force. Much like you can use an impact to get lugs off with the wheel in the air but you can't do the same with a wrench.

Everything else went fine. I drove it, took a bit to start it but it did. Maybe if feels smoother. Maybe the EGTs are a little lower. Hard to say as it was windy today and the wind really affects this thing on the highway. Time will tell if it helps my mileage.

Lastly, I cleaned up this ground. Took me a while to find it. I've been diagnosing issues with the turbo diesel aux coolant pump.

[old_man]

Well, turns out moving/bending that one injector line/pipe around that I couldn't get off wasn't that greatest idea. I must have over stressed it.

I noticed this on Saturday. At first seeing as I couldn't get the line off I thought I might temporarily be able to use a product called Belzona to patch it. It was very temporary, only lasted 1 trip. Not really surprised.

Seeing as I had thing to use I really monkeyed on the line to get it off and I eventually did. This allowed me to braze it. This was might first time brazing anything in my life and I didn't have access to oxygen.

So far it's holding. It looked nicer before but I had to redo it seeing as I had brazed it with the flare nut on the wrong side. It's been one day but so far it's holding. Don't worry, new lines are already on order with expedited shipping.

I thought mig welding it wouldn't be a good idea.

[?Waldo?]

Did I post a l this link earlier?

https://www.vw-t3-bus-shop.de/en/injection-line-kit-td

In your situation I'd probably buy two sets although you do have your current set to use as a spare if the brazing holds. If you create an account on the site and log in all the prices go down by ~15%.

[old_man]

[Abscate]

Sorry to be a broken record but please be careful around those diesel lines.

If you inject yourself with diesel under pressure, the doctors cut off the affected area.
_________________
.ssS!

[old_man]