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Requesting tips on installing engine
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Rich
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2003 8:10 pm    Post subject: Requesting tips on installing engine Reply with quote

1972 Westy, 1700cc engine.

1) Oil filler tube won't clear frame as engine is raised.

2) My engine uses studs at the bottom to connect to the transmission. Is this correct, or are these supposed to be bolts?

3) If studs are correct, do I leave the studs in during installation or do I put them in after the engine and trans are together?

4) I am using a floor jack. What should I put between the jack and the engine, if anything? I had a big piece of plywood but it seemed to hinder the movement of the engine when I went to make small adjustments in the position of the engine.

I read a couple of manuals, but I think they are leaving out some helpful tips.

Any ideas appreciated.

Rich
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jeremysmithatshawdotca
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2003 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Studs are correct, leave 'em in.
A piece of plywood is good.
You can take the filler tube off, and put it back on later.
This is what you really want:
Some of the manuals say to put a chain under the tranny right, but it does'nt really seem to matter, (It didn't to me), but if you do that, support the back of the tranny with a chain, you undo the two back bolts holding the tranny into place, and it will tilt down slightly. The reason you support it, is that the front mount can be damaged if you let it drop too far. Anyways by tilting it, you can get the studs in, slide the engine into the tranny, and then there's more room to lift the engine up and get it into place. Jeremy
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sixfootdan
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2003 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had better luch w/o the plywood. Gives you a little more movement.
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Rich
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2003 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One problem is that I have too big a piece of plywood under the engine, and the engine bearer bolts are digging into it.

A friend and I were raising it slowly and putting 1" X 4"s at the corners of a 2' X 4' piece of plywood. It looked great going up, but I relized there was no mobility. The engine could not move on the plywood, the plywood could not move on the blocks, and the centered floor jack seemed unable to move at all. When the engine got high enough for the flook jack to bear all the weight, the oil filler pipe was jamming on something. Alson the coil seemed in the way.

Two hours after starting, wood, wrenches, and jacks laying all over, the sun now down, the heat, the humidity, I said to my friend "I quit."

Last night I took a closer look at four manuals (Gregory's, Clymers, Autobooks and Haynes) 2 are written specifically for the type 4 engine. Some use the word "bolt" to describe the lower fasteners ("insert the lower bolts"), others use "stud" There is contradiction regarding the oil filler tube, whether it should be removed or installed at this point, and I have a sense that perhaps the piece of metal that the oil filler tube is hitting can be removed. What was interesting to me was that none (haven't reviewed Bentley, its in the van) of the manuals suggested putting anything between the troley jack and the motor!

I will remove the oil filler pipe and whaterever else I can in order to make more room, including the coil and perhaps the piece that the oil filler pipe was hitting on the way up. I am going to use a smaller piece of plywood to avoid the binding of the bearer bolts. If need be, I will tilt the front of the tranny down by loosening the rear securing bolts and strapping the front of the tranny so the front does not drop too much.

Thanks for the replies.

Rich
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jeremysmithatshawdotca
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2003 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I swapped engines, the studs on the two engines were different lengths. The long ones were too long for the engine to go in cleanly with the transmission bolted in. The Muir manual says to support the tranny, but doesn't tell you to unbolt it so it never occurred to me at the time. I wound up swapping the studs, and struggling to get the engine in. It'll go in with a lot less frustration if you tilt the tranny down a bit to meet the engine I'm sure! Jeremy
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Rich
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2003 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are days when the seemingly endless weight of living is a burden such as can be born but moment to moment. And then there are days when a cup of coffee and a cigarette tastes so great, ya wanna live forever! Go figure! Today's nature is of the later, and the engine is installed.

What worked best for me was to put the floor jack directly on the engine. seems so much more mobile. I got lucky and did not need to loosen the rear trans. bolts. I tried to turn the nuts and they would not budge, so I gave it a shot without loosening them.

I also ended up leaving the engine bearer brackets off until after the engine was in.

Thanks again,
Rich
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jeremysmithatshawdotca
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2003 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's great Rich! You know, I wish they would have kept that rear body panel removable like it was on earlier busses, it would make the task so very much simpler. They must have wanted to drive people to get more work done at dealerships! Jeremy
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Rich
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2003 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!
Not sure why they made the change, but I'd make a modification allowing the removal of that piece if I thought I could do it. Maybe I'll find some expert welder, but I'd hate to mess up what has been already engineered.

I did not know that the rear was at one time removable. Makes sense to me. There is like no clearance! Yet everyone seems to get the job done, even this first timer. I will definately leave the oil filler pipe loose next time. It did not appear that I could completely remove it w/o taking off the fan housing and maybe a couple of other parts.

If the guy that rebuilt the heads did so correctly, this thing will run!

"Hooper, ya idiot...!"

Thanks again
Rich
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