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Headlight System Upgrades
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AlmostHeavenWV_VW Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2020 5:48 pm    Post subject: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

Thought I would make a dedicated write up on my headlight system upgrades as I get them done. Hopefully this will help simplify the process for those looking into doing these upgrades in the future.


I will be planning to:

#1 Converting to a 5-pin stock headlight relay
#2 Adding in additional headlight 'power' relays
#3 Converting from sealed beam to H4 headlight bulbs and assemblies



A few general notes:


-As always with electrical work, make sure to disconnect the battery before beginning any work on the electrical system-


-Remember to get yourself the appropriate 'relay block' style wire connector ends. (The ones with the small retaining 'tab' on the back side to hold it into the relay block socket).

Connectors like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Female-Terminals-co...mp;sr=8-24


-The add-on 'power relays' will require an accessory fuse block (preferably with a dedicated and fused direct feed from the battery) to make the project the easiest. You can do it without an accessory fuse block, but it is MUCH easier with the accessory fuse block.

Accessory blocks like these (also nice that these give you additional grounding terminals too):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W2MIPQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9PJ7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


-Upgrading from sealed beams to H4 bulbs does not necessarily require power relays, per se and does not require upgrading the power wires to the headlights themselves. This is especially true if using the 55/60W H4 bulbs (which are the same wattage as the stock sealed beams).

-However, if you choose to use higher-than-stock wattage H4 bulbs, you will need to add the power relays AND upgrade the wires running from the relays to the headlights.

Quote:

Supplies used reference:
Connectors:
https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Female-Terminals-co...mp;sr=8-24
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=a27610ct
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/60635-3/A27593CT-ND/456686

Terminal splitters
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0190430010/WM7273-ND/3044467

Accessory fuse block
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W2MIPQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9PJ7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5-pin headlight relay
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-electrical...edium=ymme
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volkswagen,197...relay,3400

Bosch style power relays
https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/electrical-switch+&+relay,relay,accessory+power+relay,2944

_________________
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Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor


Last edited by AlmostHeavenWV_VW on Sat Feb 08, 2020 6:02 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2020 5:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

Upgrading from 4-pin headlight relay to the 5-pin relay

The first of 2 upgrades:

--Upgraded from the stock 4-pin stock headlight relay to a 5-pin stock headlight relay.

----This upgrade allows for me to have the headlight 'flick' or 'flash' functionality to help signal at junctions, signal to pass, or while driving to warn others of hazards (just like newer cars).

 

 

Reference threads on the 4-pin vs 5-pin headlight relays usage:

 

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=727328&highlight=headlight+relay

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=725939&highlight=headlight+relay

 

Quote:
Supplies:

-Appropriate length (approx. 6-8" length) of 12AWG wire-your choice of color.

-1 'relay tab' female wire terminal

-1 'regular/ no-tab' female wire terminal

-A few of the 'piggyback' terminal splitters like these ones:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0190430010/WM7273-ND/3044467

-1 5 pin headlight relay

(here's the relay I bought: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-electrical...7CL3*15655 )

 

On a positive note: most replacement headlight relays are 5-pin and available from VW parts sellers, Autozone, AdvanceAuto, NAPA, local auto parts store, RockAuto, etc.

 



 

-I swapped in the 5-pin headlight relay and added the dedicated power wire for the #30 terminal. You'll need a 12AWG wire from a 'constant' on source(if you want to be able to flash the lights with the ignition off), or switched power -whichever you so choose.

 

-Run the power wire from the UNFUSED side of the fuse box ( so that your power for the 'flash' function isn't running through and taxing one of the stock fuses) up into the proper slot of the relay 'bridge' where the stock headlight relay sits. You may choose to fuse this wire if you wish. However, such wires are not fused from the factory. Your choice.

 

 

Using one of the terminal splitter/ 'piggybacks' to add in your wire for terminal #30 to your chose type of power source:

"Switched" power sources for 1973 Bug: Input/unfused side of fuse #11 or #12

"Constant on" sources for 1973 Bug: Input/unfused side of fuse #8 or #9

 

You'll need to consult your year & model wiring diagram to determine a good place to take 12v power from. You can find the wiring diagrams here on the Samba:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php

 

Now, once you have the wire installed then simply plug in the 5-pin relay to the relay socket.

 

Now I have the 'flash' function on the headlights- just like a modern car Very Happy

 

Some pictures:

Project box full of supplies and goodies

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


 
Added 12v + power wire for #30 terminal outlined in green
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Work in progress
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Done!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


 
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Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor


Last edited by AlmostHeavenWV_VW on Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:49 pm; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 08, 2020 5:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

Add-on "Bosch Style" relays to provide direct power to the headlights



Good reference threads for H4 headlights and add-on power relays:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=707332&highlight=h4

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=694130&highlight=h4

Optional:
Here TX73 chose to use 3 power relays to 'split' the low beam power(for added redundancy):


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=...ck#7476380

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7459032&highlight=headlight+relay#7459032
 

Here's some useful wiring diagrams and pictures I made up to demonstrate how it all comes and goes together for the dedicated power relays:
 
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Quote:
Supplies:

-12 AWG wires (I used Red for power supply wires, then yellow and white for the low and high beam wires, respectively)

- Enough "relay block" wire connectors (and 'no tab' wire connectors if you want to use them for the fuse block connections)

-(2) SPDT "Bosch style" relays (Available at any local auto parts store, rockauto, etc.)

----(I bought these ones: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6337488&jsn=1826 )




Finishing wiring in/ installing the dedicated 'power' relays for the high and low beam headlights, respectively.


Took some finesse to get all the new & replacement wires up into the relay 'bridge', but I got a system down: Using a pair of long fisherman's 'tweezers pliers' and nimble fingers:

--Feed the wire underneath the relay bridge by hand.

--Next, take the fisherman's pliers and lock them onto the very base of the wire connector.

--Using the pliers and looking down from above of the relay socket, get the wire lined up well and try to get the connector up into the socket a bit.

--Continue holding the pliers to keep the connector in place. Then take the free hand and slide a finger underneath the connector.

--Once you have light upward pressure applied with your finger, then unclamp the fisherman pliers and move then out of the way.

--Then push gentle and steady until the connector slides up and locks into the relay terminal slot.

 

A few times, I took my connector release tool (you could even use a paperclip) and stuck it down from the top of the terminal slot to help 'align' the connector better so that it would slide up into place.

 

I used the 2 empty relay slots on the left side of the relay 'bridge' to keep things tidy & neat (as much as can be done, at least). I also like that it looks somewhat 'stock' by utilizing the stock fusebox relay bridge too. Easily undone as well, if desired down the road.

One could also simply wire up these relays and place them in another chosen location, if desired.

 

Before

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


 

It took longer than I anticipated, but persistence and patience paid off in the end.

No popped fuses, and everything worked on the first try!

The headlights seem much brighter to me than before the power relay addition as well. Very Happy

 

Also, as an aside- I chose to replace the OE low and high beam feed wires coming from the stock headlight relay for this project. This is a good example of how you can easily have voltage drop though these 40+ year old systems.

Original wire on right, New wire and connector on left

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
1973 Standard Beetle
1600DP AK case
Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor


Last edited by AlmostHeavenWV_VW on Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:36 pm; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 8:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

Adding the accessory fuse block and dedicated 12v (+) power wire:

As discussed above, an 'add-on' or 'accessory' fuse block makes the power relay upgrade much easier. You can go about this many different ways- this is just one example of how to do so.

Following in TX-73's footsteps from his build thread: (except I went with a lower amp breaker- since I won't be running an amp or any such thing as well)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7420058&highlight=ato+panel#7420058

Quote:

Supplies:
Circuit breaker
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AH6NVO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ATO type fuse block w/ grounding terminals

https://www.amazon.com/SEACHOICE-13311-Fuse-Block-...7S27BG0ZZ5
https://www.amazon.com/Ato-Atc-Fuse-Block-Seachoic...7S27BG0ZZ5

8AWG wire
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10841/10002/-1

8AWG wire ring terminal connectors
https://www.hillmangroup.com/us/en/Fastening-Solut...29/p/50010
https://www.hillmangroup.com/us/en/Fastening-Solut...29/p/50015

"Shallow, old work" electrical gang box
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CARLON-1-Gang-Blue-Plasti...ox/1099179

1/2" wire shrink tubing

Misc. sizes of zip ties




STEP #1: Disconnect the battery!


Start by mocking up where you want your circuit breaker to be. Make it easy to access, but somewhere that it won't be hit, bumped, or damaged during normal use. Ideally this location will have to be within the battery well so that your unprotected wire run from the (+) battery post to the circuit breaker doesn't have to cross over any areas where it may be damaged.

Then go to the front trunk and decide where and what orientation you would like the new accessory fuse block to be located. Remember to consider the front trunk liner and/or any luggage, tools, or other things that you keep or may place into the trunk. Keep the fuse block in a safe place where the wire connectors from your components will not be damaged when they are connected to your fuse box.

Once you've chosen the circuit breaker and fuse block locations, begin working under the rear seat area by laying out and setting up your wire from the (+) post of the battery to the circuit breaker. Cut the wire to length, apply your ring terminal connectors, and apply the shrink wrap.

You may attach the wire at the circuit breaker, but I would advise to wait until the end of the project to attach the wire end to the battery post. This prevents accidental shorting of your new project and/or battery.

Beginning from the front driver's side foot well, run some 8AWG wire up through the heaterchannel opening where the stock wiring harness runs. Then following the stock harness, slide the new wire up and into the front trunk area. (you may need some lubricant of some sort to get the new wire through the trunk wire grommet).

Feed enough wire into the trunk to reach the location of the new accessory fuse block you chose earlier. You may apply the ring terminal to the wire, shrink wrap, and attach the wire to the fuse box post. At this point you may either fasten the fuse block to the chosen location or come back later to do so.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Go Back in the front drivers side foot well.

Continue to unroll your 8AWG wire and route the wire along the drivers (left side in USA) side. Follow the stock wiring harness. Use zip ties to help hold the new wire in place as it follows the stock harness.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Remove the kick panel underneath the rear seat. Continue to unroll the new wire, choosing wisely where to run the wire so that it will not be pinched, damaged, or rest against any grounding wires or points. Use zip ties where needed to hold it in place.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Follow the stock wire(which runs from the voltage regulator to the battery in externally regulated generator/alternator cars) and cross the center tunnel. Take care to not pinch or smash any wires, especially under the rear seat support bar.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now run the wire to the battery area and to your chosen location for the circuit breaker. Now cut the wire to length, apply the ring terminal & shrink wrap. Attach this wire to the open terminal on your circuit breaker.

Now, double check all your work.


Then you can now attach the "battery to circuit breaker" wire to the positive battery cable clamp.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Final step: Reconnect the battery and check to make sure all is well and the breaker did not trip and that you are satisfied with the locations of all components and wiring.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2020 10:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

Love your tutorial. However, there is one point that needs to be corrected or else, someone that follows, will believe this is okay.

This picture shows your new wire terminal (shinny one) incorrectly crimped. The insulator gets pinched in the outer crimp and the strands of wires get COMPLETELY encased by the crimp in the inner crimp.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Admin note:
This photo was removed b the member in order to not show an incorrect crimp
New version:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


There are several online tutorials on the how tos It is not just throwing the terminal in the pliers and squeezing. Crimping is an art form and dictates how the circuit will effectively work and for how long. Bad crimps lead to a multitude of problems.

Here is a great page to determine if you are correctly attaching terminals to wires, CORRECTLY.
https://hackaday.com/2017/02/09/good-in-a-pinch-the-physics-of-crimped-connections/
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:32 am    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

Although that photo was intended only to demonstrate 40+ years of corrosion, I understand your point.

Correct crimping can be noted on both stock wires. The scrap wire (which was not used due to the issues you also noted) was simply available for comparison once I got back inside the house and warmed up from the 25*F weather. Note that it does not match factory colors for either headlight feed wire. Simply for corrosion comparison.

I have removed the photo from the post, pmd Everett to remove it from the site and will replace it with a more suitable photo when I can.


EDIT/update:

Crimped a new example wire and got the new photo up now. Everett is updating other locations of that picture. That should prevent me from being a bad example Embarassed
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Last edited by AlmostHeavenWV_VW on Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 9:22 am    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

VW_Jimbo wrote:
The insulator gets pinched in the outer crimp and the strands of wires get COMPLETELY encased by the crimp in the inner crimp.

Here's a close up pic to illustrate what VW_Jimbo was describing...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



BTW, this is a good write up for headlight wiring upgrades! Cool
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

VW_Jimbo wrote:
Love your tutorial....


ashman40 wrote:


BTW, this is a good write up for headlight wiring upgrades! Cool


Thanks guys! Worked hard to remember to take lots of good pictures for this project. I'm getting better at that, but I did have to go back a day later and take pictures of things of the routing underneath the back seat.....I forgot to do that while I was working on it. Oh well...not bad for a rookie Laughing


Hopefully this will be of use to others down the road. Good to 'give back' on here, since I have learned tons from this site.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2020 8:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

AlmostHeavenWV_VW wrote:
VW_Jimbo wrote:
Love your tutorial....


ashman40 wrote:


BTW, this is a good write up for headlight wiring upgrades! Cool


Thanks guys! Worked hard to remember to take lots of good pictures for this project. I'm getting better at that, but I did have to go back a day later and take pictures of things of the routing underneath the back seat.....I forgot to do that while I was working on it. Oh well...not bad for a rookie Laughing

Hopefully this will be of use to others down the road. Good to 'give back' on here, since I have learned tons from this site.


I have gone back and staged the garage and car for a few shots that were missing or out of focus or the camera focused on the wrong spot. Gotta do what is needed to get the point through!

Good job!

I disagree with you removing that picture. Sometimes the best teacher is the mistakes one makes. Get that back up there. Go back and show a bad crimp and a good crimp. Own it and teach. Removing the lesson, leaves it for another follower to mess up on.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 7:35 am    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

-The poorly crimped wire was not used in the project.
-The only mistake made was grabbing a poor example out of the 'practice wire' pile.
-I deleted the photo to prevent it being a bad example.
-You provided the link to site and video which demonstrates proper vs improper crimping
-I have picked a better example out of the 'practice wire' pile and photographed it.
-That photo has now been uploaded.




Perhaps in the future I will give a wire crimping tutorial, but not today.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 9:05 am    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

AlmostHeavenWV_VW wrote:


After

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




But....you took the spot for the seat belt buzzer!!! Very Happy
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 10:00 am    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

vamram wrote:
AlmostHeavenWV_VW wrote:


After

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




But....you took the spot for the seat belt buzzer!!! Very Happy

I know the above was in jest, but I really like that the OP used the relay bridge over the fuse box and didn't just mount the relays somewhere or worse leave them hanging loose off the wiring.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 1:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

ashman40 wrote:
vamram wrote:
AlmostHeavenWV_VW wrote:


After

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




But....you took the spot for the seat belt buzzer!!! Very Happy

I know the above was in jest, but I really like that the OP used the relay bridge over the fuse box and didn't just mount the relays somewhere or worse leave them hanging loose off the wiring.


Vamram, Luckily I've never had the buzzer relay! Been missing from day #1 of my ownership! Problem & moral quandary solved!! Very Happy

Ashman, Yes I agree. I like the "stock appearance" of use the relay bridge. Though it is a bit of a pain to work those wires up into the terminal slots! Mad
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 2:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

I will be the first to admit that my crimps need some attention to detail and I have made an effort lately to pay attention and to get decent tools. In this photo posted what is incorrect?

I looked at the link provided by Jimbo and learned a few things but they do not pop out to me in this photo.


[quote="ashman40"]
VW_Jimbo wrote:
The insulator gets pinched in the outer crimp and the strands of wires get COMPLETELY encased by the crimp in the inner crimp.

Here's a close up pic to illustrate what VW_Jimbo was describing...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 6:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

74 Thing wrote:
I will be the first to admit that my crimps need some attention to detail and I have made an effort lately to pay attention and to get decent tools. In this photo posted what is incorrect?

I looked at the link provided by Jimbo and learned a few things but they do not pop out to me in this photo.


ashman40 wrote:
VW_Jimbo wrote:
The insulator gets pinched in the outer crimp and the strands of wires get COMPLETELY encased by the crimp in the inner crimp.

Here's a close up pic to illustrate what VW_Jimbo was describing...
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Ashman's photo above show CORRECT crimping

These are good crimps: (note how snugly the crimp holds the wire strands, is even, is uniform. 2nd crimp holds onto the insulation jacket well to give tension relief to the wire and connection)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


These are bad crimps: (crooked, uneven crimping, wires not snugly held, crimp does not hold onto the insulation jacket for tension relief)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bad crimps can be due to:
-Operator error
-Incorrect adjustment of the 'tension screw' on the crimper tool
-Too large/too small wire for terminal used (you have to match the terminal end to the wire gauge)
-Poor quality/worn out crimper jaw dies
-Poor quality (usually too thin of metal) wire connectors


I plan to give a more in depth discussion in the future on a separate thread, but that is the basics. Since the topic came up here as well.

Hope that makes sense 74thing.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2020 7:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

Baomain Female Spade Quick Splice Crimp Terminals 6.3mm Crimp Connector Non Insulated 100 Pcs ????? Says they are Brass!
I would think that the originals were a zinc silver plated copper.

I have thought about using a copper exacto knife chuck on each one. They don't come in copper but Aluminum is common and may work just need to secure the wire with a set screw or nut or something.

https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6

I went through and measured all the head light voltage drops in my 6 volt beetle and was able to make it better with cleaning and oiling. The largest drops I had were in the HI, Lo relay and at the headlight connector. .5 Volts. Others I got down to .1 volts.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2020 1:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Headlight System Upgrades Reply with quote

Just a tip when using ratcheting crimpers on uninsulated terminals...
I often find when using smaller gauge wires (smaller than 16AWG) I need to often double-crimp the terminals onto the end of the wire.

There are three sections in my crimping jaws (sm, med and lg) for use with uninsulated terminals that have two sets of "lips" that crimp onto the wire. The normal 1/4" (6.3mm) brass terminals fit perfectly in the med area. I set the terminal into the jaws and close the jaws to the first click. This holds the terminal in the jaws w/o yet applying a crimp. I then slide the striped wire end into the terminal deep enough that the insulation is inside the crimper jaws and I can see the exposed wire conductors extending just thru the other side of the terminal. This ensures both the insulation and the conductors will be clamped by the terminal when crimped.
I apply my first crimp. The middle area of the crimper jaws applies a crimp to both areas of the terminal; rolling the terminal lips onto the insulation and onto the conductors. After completely squeezing the handles together the crimper jaws will spring open fully. Normally, the terminal gets lightly stuck in the jaws. I gently pry the terminal free and set it into the sm area of the jaws being careful not to pull the wire out of the terminal because they are not yet firmly held. I then apply a second tighter crimp using the sm area until the ratchet unlocks and the jaws spring open. Now the terminal is tightly crimped onto the wire end.

You might ask why I don't just use the sm area to begin with? I have tried this, but more often than not the crimper will crush the lips of the terminal instead of rolling them. So I used the med area to do the initial roll and then the sm area to crimp the lips tight onto the wire insulation and the conductor.

Do a dozen or so crimps and you will get a feel for how tight the crimps hold onto the wire. I always give a slight tug on the terminal when done to make sure it doesn't pull off the end of the wire.
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
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