Headlight System Upgrades

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

Thought I would make a dedicated write up on my headlight system upgrades as I get them done. Hopefully this will help simplify the process for those looking into doing these upgrades in the future.


I will be planning to:

#1 Converting to a 5-pin stock headlight relay
#2 Adding in additional headlight 'power' relays
#3 Converting from sealed beam to H4 headlight bulbs and assemblies



A few general notes:


-As always with electrical work, make sure to disconnect the battery before beginning any work on the electrical system-


-Remember to get yourself the appropriate 'relay block' style wire connector ends. (The ones with the small retaining 'tab' on the back side to hold it into the relay block socket).

Connectors like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Female-Terminals-co...mp;sr=8-24


-The add-on 'power relays' will require an accessory fuse block (preferably with a dedicated and fused direct feed from the battery) to make the project the easiest. You can do it without an accessory fuse block, but it is MUCH easier with the accessory fuse block.

Accessory blocks like these (also nice that these give you additional grounding terminals too):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W2MIPQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9PJ7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


-Upgrading from sealed beams to H4 bulbs does not necessarily require power relays, per se and does not require upgrading the power wires to the headlights themselves. This is especially true if using the 55/60W H4 bulbs (which are the same wattage as the stock sealed beams).

-However, if you choose to use higher-than-stock wattage H4 bulbs, you will need to add the power relays AND upgrade the wires running from the relays to the headlights.

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

Upgrading from 4-pin headlight relay to the 5-pin relay

The first of 2 upgrades:

--Upgraded from the stock 4-pin stock headlight relay to a 5-pin stock headlight relay.

----This upgrade allows for me to have the headlight 'flick' or 'flash' functionality to help signal at junctions, signal to pass, or while driving to warn others of hazards (just like newer cars).

　

　

Reference threads on the 4-pin vs 5-pin headlight relays usage:

　

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=727328&highlight=headlight+relay

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=725939&highlight=headlight+relay

　

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

Add-on "Bosch Style" relays to provide direct power to the headlights



Good reference threads for H4 headlights and add-on power relays:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=707332&highlight=h4

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=694130&highlight=h4

Optional:
Here TX73 chose to use 3 power relays to 'split' the low beam power(for added redundancy):


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=...ck#7476380

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7459032&highlight=headlight+relay#7459032
　

Here's some useful wiring diagrams and pictures I made up to demonstrate how it all comes and goes together for the dedicated power relays:
　

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

Adding the accessory fuse block and dedicated 12v (+) power wire:

As discussed above, an 'add-on' or 'accessory' fuse block makes the power relay upgrade much easier. You can go about this many different ways- this is just one example of how to do so.

Following in TX-73's footsteps from his build thread: (except I went with a lower amp breaker- since I won't be running an amp or any such thing as well)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7420058&highlight=ato+panel#7420058

[VW_Jimbo]

Love your tutorial. However, there is one point that needs to be corrected or else, someone that follows, will believe this is okay.

This picture shows your new wire terminal (shinny one) incorrectly crimped. The insulator gets pinched in the outer crimp and the strands of wires get COMPLETELY encased by the crimp in the inner crimp.

Admin note:
This photo was removed b the member in order to not show an incorrect crimp
New version:

There are several online tutorials on the how to’s It is not just throwing the terminal in the pliers and squeezing. Crimping is an art form and dictates how the circuit will effectively work and for how long. Bad crimps lead to a multitude of problems.

Here is a great page to determine if you are correctly attaching terminals to wires, CORRECTLY.
https://hackaday.com/2017/02/09/good-in-a-pinch-the-physics-of-crimped-connections/
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

Although that photo was intended only to demonstrate 40+ years of corrosion, I understand your point.

Correct crimping can be noted on both stock wires. The scrap wire (which was not used due to the issues you also noted) was simply available for comparison once I got back inside the house and warmed up from the 25*F weather. Note that it does not match factory colors for either headlight feed wire. Simply for corrosion comparison.

I have removed the photo from the post, pmd Everett to remove it from the site and will replace it with a more suitable photo when I can.


EDIT/update:

Crimped a new example wire and got the new photo up now. Everett is updating other locations of that picture. That should prevent me from being a bad example
_________________
1973 Standard Beetle
1600DP AK case
Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor

[ashman40]

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

[VW_Jimbo]

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

-The poorly crimped wire was not used in the project.
-The only mistake made was grabbing a poor example out of the 'practice wire' pile.
-I deleted the photo to prevent it being a bad example.
-You provided the link to site and video which demonstrates proper vs improper crimping
-I have picked a better example out of the 'practice wire' pile and photographed it.
-That photo has now been uploaded.




Perhaps in the future I will give a wire crimping tutorial, but not today.
_________________
1973 Standard Beetle
1600DP AK case
Solex 34PICT3 Carb
Bosch DVDA 205AJ Distributor

[vamram]

[ashman40]

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

[74 Thing]

I will be the first to admit that my crimps need some attention to detail and I have made an effort lately to pay attention and to get decent tools. In this photo posted what is incorrect?

I looked at the link provided by Jimbo and learned a few things but they do not pop out to me in this photo.


[quote="ashman40"]

[AlmostHeavenWV_VW]

[Danwvw]

Baomain Female Spade Quick Splice Crimp Terminals 6.3mm Crimp Connector Non Insulated 100 Pcs ????? Says they are Brass!
I would think that the originals were a zinc silver plated copper.

I have thought about using a copper exacto knife chuck on each one. They don't come in copper but Aluminum is common and may work just need to secure the wire with a set screw or nut or something.

https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6

I went through and measured all the head light voltage drops in my 6 volt beetle and was able to make it better with cleaning and oiling. The largest drops I had were in the HI, Lo relay and at the headlight connector. .5 Volts. Others I got down to .1 volts.
_________________
1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[ashman40]

Just a tip when using ratcheting crimpers on uninsulated terminals...
I often find when using smaller gauge wires (smaller than 16AWG) I need to often double-crimp the terminals onto the end of the wire.

There are three sections in my crimping jaws (sm, med and lg) for use with uninsulated terminals that have two sets of "lips" that crimp onto the wire. The normal 1/4" (6.3mm) brass terminals fit perfectly in the med area. I set the terminal into the jaws and close the jaws to the first click. This holds the terminal in the jaws w/o yet applying a crimp. I then slide the striped wire end into the terminal deep enough that the insulation is inside the crimper jaws and I can see the exposed wire conductors extending just thru the other side of the terminal. This ensures both the insulation and the conductors will be clamped by the terminal when crimped.
I apply my first crimp. The middle area of the crimper jaws applies a crimp to both areas of the terminal; rolling the terminal lips onto the insulation and onto the conductors. After completely squeezing the handles together the crimper jaws will spring open fully. Normally, the terminal gets lightly stuck in the jaws. I gently pry the terminal free and set it into the sm area of the jaws being careful not to pull the wire out of the terminal because they are not yet firmly held. I then apply a second tighter crimp using the sm area until the ratchet unlocks and the jaws spring open. Now the terminal is tightly crimped onto the wire end.

You might ask why I don't just use the sm area to begin with? I have tried this, but more often than not the crimper will crush the lips of the terminal instead of rolling them. So I used the med area to do the initial roll and then the sm area to crimp the lips tight onto the wire insulation and the conductor.

Do a dozen or so crimps and you will get a feel for how tight the crimps hold onto the wire. I always give a slight tug on the terminal when done to make sure it doesn't pull off the end of the wire.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}