My baja build

[joemicari]

Rochester NY area.

[joemicari]

Well, fall has arrived in upstate NY so have time again to work on my build. I completed the chassis bracing and the fuel cell mount. Fuel cell mount came out nice but just not sure I am completely satisfied. Would have preferred something different but had limited space and location to place it. Overall a good safe location and will look nice. Next is the steering

[joemicari]

I have not had to fabricate things more then once to many times but the steering column broke that success streak. I wanted to stay with a stock directional signal and horn which required me to stay with a portion of the stock column. I shortened the column and welded a mounting flange for a pillow block bearing on the back side of the shortened stock column. The pillow block bearing also had a locking collar hub. I fabricated a "cradle" for the stock column to sit in and clamp to. The cradle is welled to the roll cage and the inside of the cradle is lined with rubber for isolating the ground from the column. I then routed the balance of the steering shaft to the rack and pinion. I also used an oil light bearing housing through the front firewall as a second bearing. This is sealed around the OD to the wall so the cab will remain sealed off when complete. Really like the look and feel. I also used a IRS trans-axle bellows between my steering wheel and the directional signal assembly since I pulled the wheel forward to give me more room between my wheel and directional signal arm. The entire steering column is isolated from the chassis so the horn functions as designed. The column is also secured only to the roll cage and not the body as original. I can remove the body without taking apart the steering column.

[dirtkeeper]

Looks great .

[joemicari]

Finished my dash and ready for leather upholstery. The aluminum portion will be painted the same color as the car. Hard to see but there are two small directional signal indicators between the speedometer and tachometer holes. The other small hole is for the fuel gauge. The 4 gauge “cans” are for oil temp, cylinder head temp, oil pressure, and volt. Fabricating the glove box now which will house my two fuse blocks. Relays and busbar will be behind the dash.

[rodeking]

Damn, what are you using for power and t'axle?

Nice work from a fellow WNY'er!

edit - never mind, re-read the first sentence.

[joemicari]

I did not find many posts on utilizing a toggle for the wipers and still having the park function. Here is what I did for my single speed motor
- first, I switched out the 6V armature with a 12V that I bought from Wolfsburgwest. I prefer the once and done solution
- I used a SPDT toggle
- Wired as per the sketch
- One position operates the wipers (single speed only)
- the other position parks the wipers. The LED on the switch lights to tell me I have power to the park position, since the wipers stop in park.
- After the wipers park, I will put the switch back to neutral. No power to park or to run the wipers. The LED will then be off. I am using the LED to tell me I have power to park

I only need the wipers for inspection as I will not run in the rain. However, I did not want to "time" turning the toggle to off to have the wipers low on my windshield.

This would also work with a two speed motor, but you would only connect one speed to the switch.

[joemicari]

So, the doors that came with the 65 body were in rough shape and did not have any of the glass or mechanism components. I had later model doors that are in great shape and have all the components and glass. As you all know, the strike plate/door latch is different and in a different location between the 65 and later models. So, I had a choice. Spend money to buy all the internal components and better 65 door shells or spend $20 and modify my 65 to accept later model doors. I decided to modify the 65 to accept the later model doors. I purchased later model strike plates and that was all. The modification allows for some adjustment in the strike plate location so I can align the door perfectly. Really pleased with the results. BTW, I formed the metal in the pic below with a male/female die set I made from hard maple. Just used my 12 ton shop press. Total time was about 1 hour and it worked great. A little bondo to cover some weld pits and now onto something else.

[joemicari]

Well, it is winter in upstate NY and time to get back to my build. I did have some time over the summer to work on the car but mostly did body work. Stripped 6 layers of paint/primer and repaired some minor rust, and dents.

Could not find rear fenders I liked so I decided to make my own including a rear fairing to hold my oil cooler. First time working with fiberglass and making a mold. Pretty pleased with the results. They do require post bondo but overall, very pleased. My oil cooler will mount on the top of the rear fairing.

Next is the rear torsion housing, rear cage and front hood. Then the body will come off for final cage weld, paint and final body prep.

[dustymojave]

I like those fenders. Especially the steel tube around the edge.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet.

[joemicari]

Finished my rear cage. One bend error but since this was the rear cage I decided to sleeve and weld a repair instead of making a new piece. A little filler I need to smooth out. I have more then enough room for my turbo setup. Working on the skid plate now then moving to complete the rear suspension/shock mount. I sleeved all (4) mount locations. I also decided to add a rear brake light bar on the back of the cage.

[joemicari]

making progress in the snow and cold. completed the rear suspension and skid plate. Decided to add roll cage door bars that open so that is next. Then onto rear disks. In NY, I have to have a mechanical parking brake on both rear wheels so will need to buy a mechanically actuated caliper and fabricate a mounting bracket.

[Dkwautounion]

sweet build.

[joemicari]

Approaching the end of the main fabrication. Swing open Door bars are complete, moving towards hood, light mounts, skid plate and shift mount. Then body off for chassis final weld and paint.
In NY you must have mechanical emergency brakes on both rear wheels. I purchased Wildwood mechanically activated calipers. Fabricated a bracket and mounted to the trailing arms. Actually was a little easier then I expected. Now searching for std parking brake cables that are close to the size I need. Prefer not to modify the sheathing or cable if possible, and prefer to avoid custom size costs. Think I found a set I can work with, and a reasonable cost compared to the "universal" kits that are expensive and I would still need to shorten. Hope the wooden shims in the pic do not impact my stopping distance, ha.

[joemicari]

I wanted my hood to open like a stock hood. I came up with a design that fit my baja. Funny, the pillars I modified in the early stage of the build turned out to be a perfect fit for the hood to swing and fit against. After some cutting and sanding, I have an 1/8" gap around the entire hood. Just need to add some panel fasteners along the bottom rear of the hood and some spring hood catches on the front.

Have some cleanup and nickle plating to complete on the hinges but they function perfectly and look ok. I just fiber glassed them onto the underside of the hood. Very strong mount results.

[joemicari]

finished my front skid plate and bumper. Just need to mount the skid plate after paint. The only fab I have remaining is one more door bar and then onto final weld and grind. Mounted the shifter as well and the shifter linkage. Works well


My son came home to live with us for a few months and save some money. We now have his MGB in our garage. If I can just move out my wife, I mean her Audi, my son and I will have room for one more project car.

[joemicari]

Probably my last post until after paint. Pulled the body off and now have the frame on the rotisserie for final weld then paint. Body will go on the rotisserie for final body work followed by epoxy primer, high fill primer, lots of sanding then paint. Will spend the winter wiring and assembly. 12 months, will be driving

[Double-Double]

Great work! Looks amazing so far!

[BajaBug1600]

wow thats awesome in every way! you sure you want that to be a street baja ?!

[greentrc6]

Awesome build. I just picked up a bug and am getting ready to start cutting it up.