babybutt smooth primer?

[73resto]

I was told the wrong sand paper to use on my primer. I was using 320 sand paper . well any way i started wet sanding the hood with 600grit sand paper. I have gotten the hood to shine and be babys butt smooth but there are still scratches from the 320 grit paper . i would like to rid the hood of the scratches but am afraid of having to little of coats of primer.

making sense??

i know once the paint it on the hood the scrathes will be magnified.

can i buff them out or should i keep sanding with 600grit.?????

its a single stage urethane paint.
Biscay blue.
90 $ a quart.

[Ipaintem]

what paint are you going to use? Sealer? base clear? single stage? Brand?

[Ipaintem]

oh, I just reread and saw single stage, please answer the other q's

[Jowlz]

Also, are you hand sanding with 320?? or using a d/a? That makes a huge difference.
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The honey-do list put my project on hold.......

[73resto]

well heres a pic.

i wasn't planning on using sealer

I was going to use a centari single stage base coat. but the salesman persuaded me to using a urethane basecoat. - "cheaper and more durably," he said

ah i'll be back with the exacts. and more pics

I am Hand sanding it . No d/a
should i d/a it with 600 grit paper
it with go faster

[Campy]

Your car should always have at least two coats of primer filler on it, with sanding in between coats (320 grit). Scuff it up and spray another coat of surfacer on the car. I sprayed polyester surfacer on my bus; it's harder to sand, but it goes on thicker and is more durable than regular surfacer.
You should spray the car with epoxy primer or primer sealer the same day you spray on your single stage paint. Primer sealer doesn't seal out moisture; it's better to use epoxy primer, and it's well worth the extra time and expense.
I was talked into buying a cheaper paint (Omni) by the paint man at a paint store; for my next buses, I'm going to buy better paint, maybe even go two stage. Don't get cheap when it comes to paint!

[Jowlz]

I asked about the hand sanding because of the scratches you are seeing. You will see scratches with 320 when hand sanding. You wont see them with a d/a. It sounds like you might not be sanding enough with the 320 if you see them even by hand. Alot of people dont go any further than 320 before paint and you shouldnt see any sand marks.
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The honey-do list put my project on hold.......

[73resto]

well i think i will jump to the d/a sander with 600 or 320 grit ??

I'll be using a sealer to.

Should i stop wet sanding??? the primer sucks the water in and the metal is exposed and will get surface rust right ?/

[Campy]

The final wet sanding I did on the primer surfacer on my buses body was with 500 grit wet sandpaper. An old, professional auto restorer (Cruce) had told me to use 600 grit wet sandpaper, but I wanted the epoxy primer to have a little rougher surface to stick to. It's a fine balance: you want the surface rough enough so the paint will stick well, but not so rough that the topcoat will have lines in it. I would be afraid to use sandpaper much lower than 500 grit.

[Jowlz]

I think I might have misunderstood your post...are you on your last coat of primer before painting? If you are 320 was bad advice. I figured you were on your first/level coat. Sorry. Dont use the DA. Hand block it all out. 400 nice and easy and up as high as 600. Your hood you will most likely have to prime again.
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The honey-do list put my project on hold.......

[fred g]

The quickest way to get a deep sanding scratch from a surface (except with filler) is with the same grit paper. Go back to the offending grit and work your way back slowly. Try not to move up too fast on the grits and make the scratch pattern as uniform as you can.

But what do I know I'm a stupid carpenter...

Fred G
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71 Kombi Rusty the 'Afront'

"Buy the ticket, take the ride." H.S Thompson

[Nessal]

I'm a bit sketching about DA sanding with 400 or 600 grit as a final grit before topcoat. I just can't get a good "feel" with the DA sander compared to wetsanding about how deep I'm cutting into the primer.

[73resto]

I talk to an elderly man who usta paint bugs at my age and her said that the sealer that i should aplie just befor the paint will fill in thw scratches.

make sense??

[73resto]

I quoted this from a what so seems an experienced individual

""Wet sand the whole car with 400-600 grit. Inspect every panel and surface. Wipe down and respray primer if needed. When you are happy and the whole car is sanded to glass-smooth""

so as it says you want a glass-smooth primered look. before the paint.
so the paint should bond to the glass-smooth primer right.
so i'm fine , i can keep sanding with 600 right

any one thoughts ?

[marklaken]

that sounds about right...don't go higher than 600...you can get away with 400 if you are careful not to push too hard...i use 320 & 400 after my first three wetcoats of high build to bring it down smooth to remove the swirlies from my electric sander with 60 grit on it that i used to strip the original paint...i try and sand it pretty good, removing the bulk of the high build...for deep scratches, i use Evercoats glazing filler to fix...then i hit the whole panel again with a couple shots of high build primer and then go after it with the finer grit paper...500 in my case because i am impatient...

you want all panels to be smooth and free of imperfections and still have bite to them (that's why you don't sand higher than 600)...your sealer coat is going to provide a more uniform base color for your paint and provide a good bond between the sanded primer and the paint...it might fix the most minor imperfections, but if it doesn't, those imperfections are going to show through your paint, so i wouldn't count on it to fix anything...have it all fixed prior to sealer coat...

your high grit papers (1500+ grit) are for working the finished paint, where you want a super smooth finish...
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Wish List:
1967 Wesfalia SO-42 Parts Needed: Kitchenette, Cot Poles

'65 rear left beetle fender

15" Bus Wheels in fair condition

Mark Laken
Fort Collins, CO