Propane Tank Vent Valve replacement part?

[a2wolfsburggli]

Hey all. I'm about to do a cleanup on my Westy's propane tank. My tank is off the van but isn't apart yet and really doesn't seem to leak. I was just going to do this to media blast, paint and get away from the problematic auto fill setup.

I've referenced the various threads on replacement fill and vent valves. The part #s given for the vent valve, 3165SC, V20058, AR-171603, don't seem to be available any more.

Is there another solution that anyone has come up with? I don't want to tear apart my tank if I can't replace the parts.

Thanks all!

[Ahwahnee]

I do not know what year Westy you have - early ones (e.g. my 84) used an Auto-Stop device. If that is yours you might look at this:

http://www.classbforum.com/forums/f5/auto-stop-valve-propane-1746.html

I know more than what you see there - I replaced the tank and all attachments with a new one from GoWesty.

[a2wolfsburggli]

[11BC2]

[E1]

Between auto-stop valves that may or may not be installed, and that may or may not work if/when they are, and employees routinely filling propane with little or no training, in my view this entire mess is the riskiest part of ownership by far.

Safest is using until entirely empty, and refilling with *exactly* 2.5 gallons and not one ounce more.
_________________
1984 Westfailure/2.1 Digijet/5.43 Ring & Pinion/Peloquin/D-rated BFG KO2s
AI has spoken to further illiteracy, to steal, to cheat, and to replace humans

"Adding power makes you faster on the straights.
Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere." — Colin Chapman

[crazyvwvanman]

I've had many Westy tanks filled, dozens of times including in Mexico and Canada. It isn't that hard. Hook up the filler hose, open the small bleeder valve, pump in propane until the bleeder stops hissing and starts to spit. Go to a place where it is an every day thing.

The mid 80s Autostop valves are a disaster waiting to happen. Replace them or replace the tank. Period.

Mark

[a2wolfsburggli]

I've seen a bunch of propane tank valve or replacement posts here and on a couple of FB pages. Figured I'd update this post with a how to.

All in with parts, paint, primer, rust converter and wire brush attachments for the drill, I think this project was about $60 and a weekend. Maybe a total of 4-5 hrs of labor. Most of that is in the wire brushing and sanding.

If you're only replacing the problematic auto fill system without paint or regulator this is literally a $20 project that can be done on the van.

Will this paint job look pretty like a powder coated one for 10 years? No...but I didn't really care about that. I care about having a mechanically sound, non leaking tank refurb for a reasonable DIY cost.

Bleeder Valve:
https://centuryfuelproducts.com/3165cp

Fill Valve:
https://centuryfuelproducts.com/rego-7647sc-filler-valve

Make sure you use liquid fuel rates PTFE Thread tape. You can get it at any hardware store or here:
https://www.amazon.com/Mill-Rose-70885-Monster-Sealant-1429-Inches/dp/B009YA09D0

If you need a new regulator, you can get them from several Vanagon / Westfalia specific vendors. I recommend BusDepot.com over GoWesty
https://www.busdepot.com/253070604

Refurbish is a pretty easy job once you get past the potential explosion factor.

Remove then empty your tank by what ever means you feel is safe. I've heard others just letting their stove burners run till empty. I removed mine and hooked it up to a propane garage heater I have and let it burn while I did a couple other projects.

Disassemble and let it breath overnight. It took a breaker bar and then some to get the valves out. (See example pic below.)

Plug the valve holes and sand, grind, wire brush it till your happy. I didn't remove 100% of the rust. Wash with isopropyl alcohol to get rid of dust etc.

Then I used a brush on rust converter product and coated the tank with about 3 applications. Let dry overnight.

Used a self etching spray on primer next. 3-4 coats. Let dry overnight again. (Grey in the pic below.)

Then used a standard farm implement spray on paint. (White in the pic below.)

After that I blew out the tank with compressed air just in case I got any particles in there. Put on the old regulator with new tape. I lightly cleaned up the regulator too as it's mostly made of brass.

Installed the new fill and purge valves with tape sealer and tightened them down. I don't have torque specs so don't ask. They're tight...real tight. Like pipe wrench tight.

_________________
Current: '74 Type 181 | '16 Audi Q5 3.0T S-Line Chipped to ~460hp

Past:'87 Westfalia | '09 CC 3.6L 4motion "R36 wannabe" | '02 Audi TT "ALMS Edition" | '84 Jetta GLI with Autotech Supercharger | '89 Helios Jetta GLI 16v's (x2) | '95.5 URS6 | and the list goes on.

Never underestimate the entertainment value of OCD overruling Common Sense

[westyventures]

You'll need to purge that tank again since you introduced air.

Also, toss the antiquated original regulator - they all fail sooner or later. Replace with a Marshall MEGR-295.
_________________
1990 Syncro 16" sunroof Reimo highroof conversion
1990 Westy Multivan 112i automatic
1992 LT31 Karmann Distance Wide 'La Tortuga'
2014 Touareg X TDI

[a2wolfsburggli]

[westyventures]

Some appliances are affected by a lean mixture when air is introduced, some aren't. I though the post was what you were doing 'today'. After a fill or two the air is gone through normal use. The original regulators all had a failure where the diaphragm ruptured and would leak propane out the vent. Marshall had a no-cost replacement program for awhile, the identical replacements also failed.
_________________
1990 Syncro 16" sunroof Reimo highroof conversion
1990 Westy Multivan 112i automatic
1992 LT31 Karmann Distance Wide 'La Tortuga'
2014 Touareg X TDI

[baltik]

Dumb question - why do these tanks need purging?

If the top vent is open during filling, doesnt the air get displaced automatically?

[westyventures]

https://www.propanetankstore.com/blog/why-does-my-new-propane-tank-need-to-be-purged/

http://home.earthlink.net/~derekgore/rvroadiervfulltimingwhatisitreallylike/id45.html
_________________
1990 Syncro 16" sunroof Reimo highroof conversion
1990 Westy Multivan 112i automatic
1992 LT31 Karmann Distance Wide 'La Tortuga'
2014 Touareg X TDI

[baltik]

Going to attempt this soon, does anyone know which fittings on a vanagon are reverse threaded?

[westyventures]

[danfromsyr]

[westyventures]

[dgbeatty]

Left hand threads, reversed as you called them, are clearly marked on the hex points with a notch (like someone has taken a couple of strokes with a hack saw), this is a universal marking.
_________________
Schau in das Buch

[cmayna]

Good thread. I might be restoring a tank in the near future and need to learn a bunch before then.
_________________
'90 Westy / automatic.
If I'm not working on the camper or my '50 Chebbie truck, I'm either fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.


Craig

[iiigoiii]

just saw this debate between danfromsyr and westyventures about the need to purge propane tanks...wanted to throw in some speculation. (speculation is always swell when we're dealing with explosive mixtures.)

these westy tanks are filled with the overflow/vent screw open, until liquid propane starts spitting out of the vent. liquid propane boils at room temperature and atmospheric pressure into propane gas at the ratio of 270x the volume of liquid. the first propane to hit the tank will boil into gas and start shoving any air in the tank out the overflow vent. at that ratio it's hard to see how any air in the tank could possibly remain for any amount of time...especially once the tank is filled to 80%, and the filling/partial boiling off has been going on for a couple of minutes at 270x.

only speculation, not advice of any kind.

curious if anyone knows for sure if tanks filled with open vents actually do need to be purged. not 'legally' need to, but physically/safely need to.
_________________
1984 Westfalia Wolfsburg Ed. w/ Subaru EJ22 power

[a2wolfsburggli]