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The Stupid Question Thread
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alman72
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2020 5:31 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

crap....thanks guys, 17mm allen head !
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2020 5:46 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

alman72 wrote:
crap....thanks guys, 17mm allen head !


You can sometimes find long nuts at your local hardware store that are made from 17mm stock, or you can take a 3/4" long nut and grind one end down to fit a 17mm socket. These tools would be fairly soft so might not remove a plug that someone felt the need to show their macho while tightening. There are lots of other tools that can be purchased: a standard 17mm allen wrench, a 17mm allen adapter for a 1/2" drive, the special tool Snap-On tool sold for this use, etc.

Here are just a part of what I own:

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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2020 6:14 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

alman72 wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
maz-o wrote:
Would it be stupid to just cut off this "diagnostic tool" bracket? I'm pretty sure I won't ever use it. Tidying up the engine bay as we speak and it would make things a lot neater. Has anyone else here just cut the thing off?

[img]pic[/img]

It's your bus, the diagnostic plug is pretty well a non functional decoration these days, if you want it gone do it.


I think there is a small market for the female side of this pug for some that want to play with this port cleanly. maybe 3d print? Unfortunate that the only examples for a scan (for printing) are on diagnostic units that were put in the landfill a long time ago.
has anyone here found one of them? not for my grand 3d plan, but just for fun?

Here's something to entertain you for a few minutes: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=720303

Or did you really mean female Pug?

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alman72
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23, 2020 6:37 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks Busdaddy. cute pug. I meant plug. And sweet link. That guy had a lot of fun with his diagnostic plug
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maz-o
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 7:01 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

great info, cheers!

still undecided if i should just scrap it.. not a bad idea to utilize it for other purposes eg. lighting
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alman72
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 5:26 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

maz-o wrote:
great info, cheers!

still undecided if i should just scrap it.. not a bad idea to utilize it for other purposes eg. lighting


If it has made it this far unmolested, I would keep it. Only original once.
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lil-jinx
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 9:11 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

17 mil and 11/16 are near the same.
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alman72
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 11:07 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

lil-jinx wrote:
17 mil and 11/16 are near the same.


I want the fit that keeps me from stripping out the plug. gonna clean with a pick and maybe wire brush in there if I can before I Fu*k it up anyway.
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lil-jinx
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2020 10:26 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

11/16 is 17.46 mil,,just a little over size,
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1968 Dune Buggy
1974 parts bus
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Slip356
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2020 5:11 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Use the correct size tool. Don’t screw around with ‘almost fits’ you’ll be sorry if you do down the road.
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NorCalWeekender
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2020 5:24 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Haha! Whoops. After wondering if the passenger side vent window glass could come out while everything's installed (the later needs to be replaced), it turns out the glass was pretty ready to come out!

I have the latch and regular pop rivets (yes, I know, not ideal), but little else. Guess it's time to do some research and see if the latch can be replaced and everything reinstalled while it's still on the door!
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RocketA
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2020 5:20 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I am building a stock 1600 DP motor.

I don’t have a cam or lifters.

Is it cool to use a reground stock cam and reground lifters from DPR for a purely stock application?

Or should I look for new parts?

Thanks!!!
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SamboSamba22
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2020 4:23 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

The real of thumb is to keep stock lifters to same cam, within same bores. If replacing one (camshaft), one should do the same with the lifters.
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Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 6:30 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

So I have this really nice stock 77 Westfalia, fuel injected, that I’ve giving love to after 30 years from the engine rebuilt. Had to replace damn near every seal.
Replaced all the vacuum lines, fuel lines, injector seals, cleaned the main harness, all the electrical connections, etc...
For DAYS now the bus has been running like a top. Dove into pulling the exhaust apart to eliminate the exhaust leaks from aged gaskets, buttoning everything back up, having no more exhaust leaks, the bus doesn’t really want to start. I can get it to turn over once, but if I turn it off, it’s damn near impossible to get it to start back up.

Going through the A.F.C manual, I’m thinking that my TempII sensor is the culprit. Thoughts?
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The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 6:53 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

SamboSamba22 wrote:
So I have this really nice stock 77 Westfalia, fuel injected, that I’ve giving love to after 30 years from the engine rebuilt. Had to replace damn near every seal.
Replaced all the vacuum lines, fuel lines, injector seals, cleaned the main harness, all the electrical connections, etc...
For DAYS now the bus has been running like a top. Dove into pulling the exhaust apart to eliminate the exhaust leaks from aged gaskets, buttoning everything back up, having no more exhaust leaks, the bus doesn’t really want to start. I can get it to turn over once, but if I turn it off, it’s damn near impossible to get it to start back up.

Going through the A.F.C manual, I’m thinking that my TempII sensor is the culprit. Thoughts?

Grounding the wire to the sensor will put the system into full lean mode, unplugging it makes it full rich, if the threads are dirty or loose or the wire is compromised it'll go rich and be hard to start when warm.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 8:48 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Using dielectric grease on the TSII sensor threads gives better electrical contact and keeps the sensor from seizing to the heads and becoming unremovable down the road.
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SamboSamba22
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 10:46 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thank you gents, original Temp II Sensor is very rough looking, resistance is awful low. Ordered up a new one. Cleaning it helped, but I believe that will only prolong the issue.
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The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 10:49 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

On another bus, my 68 crew cab, I can't for the life of me track down my culprit for my 3rd/4th gear hesitation. Upon accelerating, it bogs down for a few seconds before catching up.

Now I've searched all over, sprayed WD40, cannot find a vacuum leak. Only vacuum lines are to the DVDA distributor can as it's a 68 (drum brakes).
Upon some more digging today, I'm under the impression that my air filter is restricting too much for the rebuilt PICT 34-3 from Volkzbitz. Ever heard of such?


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The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 11:41 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

SamboSamba22 wrote:
On another bus, my 68 crew cab, I can't for the life of me track down my culprit for my 3rd/4th gear hesitation. Upon accelerating, it bogs down for a few seconds before catching up.

Now I've searched all over, sprayed WD40, cannot find a vacuum leak. Only vacuum lines are to the DVDA distributor can as it's a 68 (drum brakes).
Upon some more digging today, I'm under the impression that my air filter is restricting too much for the rebuilt PICT 34-3 from Volkzbitz. Ever heard of such?


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What is your timing set at?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2020 11:51 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Having the vacuum advance line connected to the retard port may just have a little to do with it. Wink
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Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

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