torque wrench not enough for the job

[airoldspeed]

I have one torque wrench, but it only marks until 200 NM. I need to change the flywheel oil seal, for what I check it is not enough.
I can't afford a torque wrench with that high of a rating and either don’t have anyone that can borrow one.
It will be better to do the job right!? Or it can be torque to 200NM without any problem?
If not, there is anyway that I can use this 200NM torque wrench and be ok with that flywheel gland not?

(1300 F letter)

[mukluk]

You need 294 NM to torque the gland nut sufficiently, so your torque wrench only gets you there about two thirds of the way. Either borrow a torque wrench with enough capacity or use a breaker & cheater bar along with some math.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[Zundfolge1432]

How about Chester with the big impact down at the truck stop? 😂

[sjbartnik]

Another option is the "torque meister" tool which is a 9x torque multiplier. By applying ~30 ft-lbs. of torque to the tool, the glad nut is nicely and easily torqued to spec.
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[car_cursed]

[Cusser]

Free loaner torque wrench at O'Reilly goes to 250 ft lbs. I've borrowed it a few times.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[airoldspeed]

I was wondering if anyone had used the "beam" type torque wrench, the one that have like a needle to point..? Can it be ok for the job?

[mukluk]

[airoldspeed]

Thank you!!

[61SNRF]

For best accuracy your torque wrench should have a much higher capacity than 217. Ideally the wrench should have ~double the desired value. This is why a torque multiplier is a good value.

Whatever method you use be absolutely certain you get the nut properly tightened!
If the nut is not tight enough the flywheel can come loose causing major damage to the crankshaft and flywheel.
Replacement of these might be 10X more expensive than the correct tools will cost
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-Bruce

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

[modok]

You don't need a torque wrench.
You know how much you weigh, torque is force times distance, make a cheater bar the right length.

[Cusser]

[ashman40]

modok is correct, you can tighten the gland nut using a cheater bar to extend/increase your leverage on the nut. Knowing how much weight you are applying at what distance to the nut you can calculate the applied torque. You also need a way to lock the flywheel in place. You don't need to apply ALL of your weight, but if you apply less than all you will need to measure how much less. Here a accurate bathroom scale will tell you how much of your weight is NOT being supported by the cheater bar.

But there are added risks when placing extensions on tools and applying a VERY large torque at a larger distance. It is easy to loose control of the situation and get hurt. Make sure the socket over the gland nut is supported so it doesn't slip off the nut while tightening.
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[Pruneman99]

Once you use the torque multiplier, you will never go back to long bars, slipping sockets, or tipping engines.

The first time I used mine, it freaked me out how easy and CONTROLLED getting the axle nuts and gland nut torqued to exactly what you want with a regular ol' 3/8 ratchet and two fingers.

Ever notice how every old axle nut is all damaged and rounded? That's from using a long bar and it slipping off.

Best VW tool I ever purchased.

[mukluk]

I very much agree that the Torquemeister or a variant thereof is the best tool for this job, but I figured since the OP stated they couldn't afford to buy the proper rated torque wrench here that it was quite unlikely they could afford to buy a torque multiplier tool either. So, suggestions as to go about things were based on what was likely they would come across versus the ideal, ie, make do with what you have.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[Pruneman99]

Large torque wrenches can be quite expensive. The tool is less than 100 with the 12v and 6v gears. If that's still outta reach, just go back to the old long bar and some math. Just find a way to support the engine well and bolt the socket on firmly.

But if the op can swing it the multiplier was the best money I've spent. Highly recommend if you own a VW IMHO.

[Glenn]

VW made a tool specifically for the axle and gland nuts.

_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[Cusser]

That's why I suggested the FREE LOANER tool.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[mukluk]

[Cusser]