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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011
Posts: 3104
Location: Tulsa, OK
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 Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2020 9:24 pm Post subject: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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Sup Type 3 people? I'm pretty much a stranger here, usually I'm lurking around the bay forum. Just picked up my 5th ACVW, my first type 3!
This is the resurrection thread, I'll add much more over the next few days.
Couple of arrival shots:
_________________
-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34003
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2020 9:29 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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Nice looking car, and a great color!
More pics, please... engine, interior, underbelly.
What are your plans for it?
Auto/FI takes a while to tune right. As you probably know, absolutely no vacuum leaks are allowed, valve and ignition timing should be perfect, too. But once right, they are a joy to drive, including the twistys! |
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Intrinsic
Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2011
Posts: 262
Location: Clearwater, FL
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 6:07 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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| That's a good looking car. I also have a 70 Auto Fastback. They are great cars and the last with the rear pop out windows. |
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Ceckert64
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 1957
Location: Manitowoc, WI
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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011
Posts: 3104
Location: Tulsa, OK
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 7:32 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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Thank you for chiming in dudes. The seller was a super cool guy. I hope to catch back up with him sometime.
My current plan is to go through Tram's super list of what to do when a FI car has been sitting for a long time before I even touch anything else.
Then brakes, suspension, axle maintenance, along with wiring.
Then, some minor body work. I have a good buddy who is a professional welder by trade, who told me he could fix the major areas I need done.
I spent the last 9 years learning all about L-Jet, and after reading about D-Jet, I do understand it is a far more fickle system, with no real allowance for vacuum leaks, low fuel pressure, or low voltage. I've also learned that the connectors in the Djet FI harness aren't springy and wear out if you plug and unplug them over and over again. I will be exercising great caution and care.
After working on late bays for my entire VW life, I decided I wanted to try something zippy...and I told myself if I ever bought another moneypit ACVW, it'd have to be something Automatic. So this all lined up pretty perfectly! and the best part is, my GF loves it.
It's great that I have a bunch of metric tools, and buckets of spare metric bolts and bits from the other cars I've turned around. I feel better prepared for this car than I did when I got my first bus.
Probably not going to work on it until this weekend, we have crazy weather for a couple days I think. The rust on this car means I will be keeping it roofed at all times during crap weather.
I'll add photos from the ad here for posterity. It has a little crunch in the nose, rusted out front bumper mounts, and crust at the corners of the pan where it meets each wheel well. Other than that, it seems really solid, and needs lots of TLC to get everything working tip-top again like windows, gas door, etc. That's the stuff I really enjoy.
First Stop: buy a Bentley for the Type 3.
Second Stop: Tram's to-do for sitting FI cars.
Third: Brakes, Suspension, wiring.
Plans always change, but I fully intend to fix, maintain and drive this car.
_________________
-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34003
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 8:37 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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It looks unmolested and complete, so that's a great start. There is evil lurking under that fender rust, probably into the A-pillars, maybe into the airbox as well, so be prepared for that bad news.
For safety, right away plan on 25 ft FI hose and about 35 FI clamps to redo the fuel lines throughout the car. That will include a fuel filter, too. |
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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011
Posts: 3104
Location: Tulsa, OK
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 9:17 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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Thanks KTPhil, I already have all the clamps and like, 15 feet of FI hose. Fortunately I live *literally* around the corner from Bughaus, the best VW parts store in the midwest in my opinion.
Extensive research on this forum helped me understand where the rust happens on these bad boys - all this is pretty typical and I think I got off easier than some. The inner sides of the frunk by the windshield only have a little bit of rust through. I've seen some poor cars that have dinner plate sized holes on either side with the poor brake fluid reservoir dangling. This car isn't nearly that bad as far as I can tell. It has a pretty decent dent in the front, too. I will be trying a few tricks to pop that out a little bit - the infamous football trick. But if you've seen my side-swiped bus that I adore, you know that I don't mind a little hoss-kick on my Vw. 
For now, my only purchase will be the Bentley, and I'll be fixing all the free shit I can while I wait for the Cherokee Nation to transfer the title- everything is by mail right now and it sucks lol. Osiyo, neighbors!
_________________
-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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Ceckert64
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 1957
Location: Manitowoc, WI
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 9:58 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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| secretsubmariner wrote: |
| Extensive research on this forum helped me understand where the rust happens on these bad boys - all this is pretty typical and I think I got off easier than some. The inner sides of the frunk by the windshield only have a little bit of rust through. I've seen some poor cars that have dinner plate sized holes on either side with the poor brake fluid reservoir dangling. |
So you’ve seen my thread then   I’m going to be following this thread for sure. My 70 Squareback has 2,000 less miles, but had a lot of rust. Your engine looks clean, not much rust on it. I would almost possibly say new hard lines  it depends what shape yours are in. Are you keeping the original interior? If so, I would suggest pulling the carpets cleaning them with a wet vac, do not do it over other carpet even with something down because dye/dirt comes out of the carpet and could stain your other carpet. Not that’d I’d know... But it does turn out nice and you can see what’s under it. Also, a vacuum with s beater bar could tear the carpet apart.
_________________
1964 sunroof Beetle Restoration "Herbie"
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
1972 Sierra Yellow Tin Top Westfalia Camper
“Fitz” 1971 Westfalia Poptop |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22413
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 10:11 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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| secretsubmariner wrote: |
Thanks KTPhil, I already have all the clamps and like, 15 feet of FI hose. Fortunately I live *literally* around the corner from Bughaus, the best VW parts store in the midwest in my opinion.
Extensive research on this forum helped me understand where the rust happens on these bad boys - all this is pretty typical and I think I got off easier than some. The inner sides of the frunk by the windshield only have a little bit of rust through. I've seen some poor cars that have dinner plate sized holes on either side with the poor brake fluid reservoir dangling. This car isn't nearly that bad as far as I can tell. It has a pretty decent dent in the front, too. I will be trying a few tricks to pop that out a little bit - the infamous football trick. But if you've seen my side-swiped bus that I adore, you know that I don't mind a little hoss-kick on my Vw.
For now, my only purchase will be the Bentley, and I'll be fixing all the free shit I can while I wait for the Cherokee Nation to transfer the title- everything is by mail right now and it sucks lol. Osiyo, neighbors! |
Yeah, I thought I saw some rust in that right fender while it was on the rollback. These are fun cars to drive with the AT and FI tuned up. Also keep in mind that the other FI guru stops by here on occasion..Ray Greenwood, so it'll help you get thru any real problems you might have. Also keep in mind that quite a few of us have moved away from the stock Bosch FI pump, and have gone to either the Airtex E2000 or the Precision brand pump E16020 for an 85-86 frame rail mounted Ranger pump. If you decide to go that route look this thread over real good, as it'll answer some of your questions. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=488576
Most times the inner frunk area is rotted out behind the "crash boxes" that VW put in for USA crash worthiness, but are really dirt and sand traps that CAUSE rust. I've fixed a few over the years, so it's a kind of common repair. Unfortunately, there are no "funky green" panels for our cars except floor pans that Gerson made. Some metal patch pieces can be found on the German e-bay site, or thru Typ3Kony.
That car should clean up very well, as my wife's 70 Fastback looked just like that (back in 1980 when we first got it south of Lawton with Texas plates on it). Same color too. I drove it back to Michigan and had started my road to learning how to keep it on the road fixing things. In my case one of the first things I did was replace the front brake hoses (internally collapsed), since it had new rotors and calipers already.The PO got tired of throwing money at it, as he had already swapped it over to carbs, using a CB Performance FI to carb replacement kit (Brosal -Solex carbs).
I hope this helps.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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KTPhil
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34003
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 10:27 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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| There are a few folks here with extensive stocks of body parts (ISPwest (CA), T3P aka boo-koo-z (WA), among others), so you will be able to find what you need, if you don't mind the shipping. |
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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011
Posts: 3104
Location: Tulsa, OK
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 11:39 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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| Ceckert64 wrote: |
| So you’ve seen my thread then I would almost possibly say new hard lines it depends what shape yours are in. Are you keeping the original interior? |
LOL yes I have seen your thread, love that elm green, great car - Squares are actually my preferred Type 3. What hard lines do you refer to? Fuel rails leading to the engine or brakes? I will use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean anything metal so I'm not too worried about that at the moment.
I am keeping the original interior, of course. It's way too good. The seats will need new cushions at some point, the crunchy horsehair won't last long when the car gets back on the road. I will likely install a carpet kit way down the road, 50 year old carpet just doesn't do it for me... a new carpets really make an old car feel so much cleaner. Thanks for pitching in, man.
| Bobnotch wrote: |
Yeah, I thought I saw some rust in that right fender while it was on the rollback. Also keep in mind that the other FI guru stops by here on occasion..Ray Greenwood, so it'll help you get thru any real problems you might have. Also keep in mind that quite a few of us have moved away from the stock Bosch FI pump, and have gone to either the Airtex E2000 or the Precision brand pump E16020 for an 85-86 frame rail mounted Ranger pump.
Most times the inner frunk area is rotted out behind the "crash boxes" that VW put in for USA crash worthiness, but are really dirt and sand traps that CAUSE rust.
In my case one of the first things I did was replace the front brake hoses (internally collapsed), since it had new rotors and calipers already.
I hope this helps. |
Ah yes....I have seen....plenty of Ray Greenwoods...posts on the forum...
he is amazing, if he says it, I make sure I listen very carefully. What a great guy. Thank you for linking the thread with the fuel pump, I read about the issues with the OG pumps and had seen some things about using the alternative. Even though I hate Ford I will gladly upgrade the pump.
I will definitely be doing brakes from softlines, cylinders, calipers, shoes, drums, whatever... I don't have a Bentley yet so I don't know what type of brakes I even have lol. I did all of that already on my bus so I have a pretty good idea of what it takes. And on the plus side, this car is WAY tiny compared to the bus so I'm hoping it's much easier. busdaddy over in the bay forum always says it's more important to make a car stop than it is to make it go. I agree wholeheartedly with that sentiment. Very, very helpful, thank you!
| KTPhil wrote: |
| There are a few folks here with extensive stocks of body parts (ISPwest (CA), T3P aka boo-koo-z (WA), among others), so you will be able to find what you need, if you don't mind the shipping. |
That's good to know, too. I'm thinking I will go with my welder buddy's recommendation when he sees it in person. I know he will do it right, even if I don't go 100% stock. I just want to ensure the car isn't going to crack half from rust if I hit a pothole. Really the only major repair it needs is the front bumper. I'll probably need to get new fenders at some point. That's far, far down the road though.
I gotta say, thank you all for the warm welcome, I look forward to posting more the progress here. I have gotten very good at using the search function on the site though so I won't be asking much unless I just can't find something.
_________________
-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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Qldelsie
Samba Member
Joined: September 22, 2019
Posts: 518
Location: Queensland Australia
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 5:48 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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Maybe we should start a special club for 1970 Clementine Fastback's ?
I had rust in my LHS A pillar caused by rotten windscreen rubber letting water in. It was virtually the only serious rust in my car, although I have since found that the 4 bumper bar boxes were heading for serious trouble - I hope I have saved them (or at least delayed major surgery) by cleaning them out thoroughly through the little drain holes, and then filling them with fish oil.
I attach a photo my A pillar yesterday after we cut out the top piece that was really bad. As you can see, the next layer was also quite rusty, but not perforated, so we are treating that and then putting a new skin on the top.
Luckily I had no rust in the top section of my front fenders where yours seem a but ugly - But at least they are easy to remove and work on. I attach a couple of pics of my inner fenders after I had painted them with a rust inhibitor paint.
Good luck with yours - As least your interior is better than mine, which was TERRIBLE, and needed all new carpets, seats, roofliner - Everything. It was just the body shell that was basically very sound.
G
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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011
Posts: 3104
Location: Tulsa, OK
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 7:25 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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| Qldelsie wrote: |
| Maybe we should start a special club for 1970 Clementine Fastback's ? |
Hey thanks for sharing! That's awesome, looks real good. Club clementine!
_________________
-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011
Posts: 3104
Location: Tulsa, OK
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 8:59 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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Getting acquainted with this beauty by cleaning the front trunk first. The compartment has a ton of great paint, and I'm pretty sure the passenger side liner mat thing had never been removed. Surface rust up in the front, and of course some holes up by the A pillars.
Sucked up 2 mouse nests and shells and crap. I wore gloves, a respirator, and I sanitized my vacuum and changed clothes
Some more pics:
Didnt take any photos of the mess beforehand unfortunately. Pretty pleased with what I found today!
I'm going to scrub the dirt away next and check out the fuel tank.
_________________
-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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Ceckert64
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 1957
Location: Manitowoc, WI
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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011
Posts: 3104
Location: Tulsa, OK
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| Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2020 7:20 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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| Ceckert64 wrote: |
| That rust looks a little rough, |
Rough like this? 
I seriously couldn't believe it that when I saw it. DAMN^^^
Rough is a relative term. I tend to think that the thundering hooves in the distance are horses, not zebras. I just won't know until I look!
I'm going to finish cleaning the frunk, take some more pics, and pull the fuel sender to inspect the fuel tank. I'm just going to go through Tram's mega list of getting a FI car going again, while tidying up and deep cleaning stuff. I want this unmolested stock beauty to retain its original elegance and style. It deserves it!
The thread with Tram's explanation: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=624072
(So I don't have to go looking for it later)
And his words of wisdom:
| Tram wrote: |
Actually, since nobody asked, this is how I'd go about it:
1. Drain fuel tank
2. Remove tank sending unit and inspect inside of tank
3. Remove fuel pump
4. Replace all rubber fuel lines under tank and at engine and replace fuel filter
5. Soak pump in Diesel while sending tank out for cleaning. (NOTE: NEVER use "tank sealer" in a FI tank!!!)
6. Hook up battery to pump after a 24/48 hour soak. Leaving it submerged in diesel, apply power. If pump wont run, gently knock with a small hammer. If it runs, let it run for a minute, then reverse polarity at the battery. This will clean and lube the pump.
7. Install cleaned tank and cleaned pump. Repair vapor hoses at filler neck as necessary. Install fresh gasoline.
8. Remove spark plugs and put a tablespoon of Sili Kroil or ATF into each cylinder.
9. Mark distributor position and remove distributor
10. Remove vacuum hose from AAR inlet. Add some Sili Kroil or ATF to AAR.
11. Remove manifold pressure sensor for cleaning out with electronics cleaner. Test for vacuum. Reinstall.
12. Replace all vacuum lines
13. Replace engine oil and clean screen.
14. Clean out distributor with electronics cleaner. Remove trigger points and clean with same. Apply dielectric grease to trigger point eccentric on distributor shaft and reinstall trigger points. Adjust or replace ignition points. Test trigger point function with distributor in bench vise and a VOM. Test function of vacuum advance(s). Oil distributor shaft and test "snap back" function of advance weights. If all is in order, reinstall distributor.
15. Gently turn engine over by hand. if it seems stuck, gently rock until it moves freely through several revolutions.
16. Remove valve covers and adjust valves.
17. Replace all fuses with the new copper type. Clean fuse box with electronics cleaner and a small brass brush.
18. Clean battery cable clamps. Remove body end of battery ground, clean the cable and the body, and reinstall cable. Remove voltage regulator, clean all connections. and sand regulator and body where they meet. Clean all connections at starter motor.
19. Replace spark plugs with non- resistor copper core type.
20. Install fresh battery
21. Install fuel pressure gauge at test port. Energize ignition several times without turning engine. Adjust pressure if necessary to 28 PSI and check closely for fuel leaks or fuel smell. If leaks or fuel smell are detected, correct this.
22. Start the engine.
If the engine fails to start, proceed by first definitively eliminating the ignition system as the source of the fault, and proceed using the following charts:
Here's a dealer level FI training booklet, too:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/dlt_fuelinjection.php
Anything I've missed, feel free to add. I couldn't find my chart so I'm pretty much going from memory.
Here's a nice general maintenance primer, too:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/looklisten_18.php
I tend to want to go through the whole car before I'll even take a joyride. |
Idk if he's still around these parts, but thanks Tram!
_________________
-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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Ceckert64
Samba Member
Joined: September 16, 2015
Posts: 1957
Location: Manitowoc, WI
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| Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2020 7:43 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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| secretsubmariner wrote: |
| Ceckert64 wrote: |
| That rust looks a little rough, |
Rough like this?
I seriously couldn't believe it that when I saw it. DAMN^^^
Rough is a relative term. I tend to think that the thundering hooves in the distance are horses, not zebras. I just won't know until I look! |
Sadly, it didn't buff out When I found a mouse skeleton in that shroud on the top of the nest that destroyed it, I felt like karma got it. I hope your rust isn't that bad, I only have had that car for a few months and I keep forgetting how rough it was. On my car, the internals of the engine were fine but the intake had rusted badly and a ton of rust had fallen into the heads, you may want to check yours For sure check the gas tank, if it was completely empty, it may of rusted bad, mine had about a cup of rust that fell out. But, your car wasn't sitting for 44 years I'm guessing since your car ran 10 years ago you may have better luck with the condition of parts. Hopefully the engine is good. When I mentioned hard lines, I meant the fuel lines that run in the tunnel, they may need cleaning or replacement. Good luck with it!
_________________
1964 sunroof Beetle Restoration "Herbie"
“Joann” 1970 Elm Green Squareback
1972 Sierra Yellow Tin Top Westfalia Camper
“Fitz” 1971 Westfalia Poptop |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22413
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2020 9:11 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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| secretsubmariner wrote: |
Getting acquainted with this beauty by cleaning the front trunk first. The compartment has a ton of great paint, and I'm pretty sure the passenger side liner mat thing had never been removed. Surface rust up in the front, and of course some holes up by the A pillars.
Sucked up 2 mouse nests and shells and crap. I wore gloves, a respirator, and I sanitized my vacuum and changed clothes
Some more pics:
Didnt take any photos of the mess beforehand unfortunately. Pretty pleased with what I found today!
I'm going to scrub the dirt away next and check out the fuel tank. |
The rust around the brake rez and tray look normal. Once you get in behind it, you'll probably find a bunch of dirt and rust, as those boxes I mentioned are dirt traps. On my wife's car it looked about that bad, while the right side was clean (rust free). All of the rest of the under hood area paint looks really good though. Almost like new.
Yeah, Ray visits over here occasionally, mainly because type 3s and type 4s have some similarities especially in their injection system, but also in the brakes (rears are the same, and some years the fronts interchange). In fact the 70 front rotors are the same as Ghias, but the calipers are t-3 only, in that they have 42mm pistons versus the Ghias 40mm pistons. I'm only mentioning this, as you can bolt the Ghia calipers on, but you lose 10% of your braking force doing so. Not to mention all of the parts places say they are the same (except they don't mention the piston size difference). Even he says you don't really need to use the factory pump, unless you're showing the car at someplace fancy. Leave them for the Porsche guys who can afford them.
If you're not in a hurry, I'd recommend sending your calipers and master cylinder to Jim Adney for rebuilding, as he does a great job on them, and offers fast return on them. I've had him do about 5 or 6 master cylinders for me, along with a couple of sets of calipers over the years with no complaints on my end. He's also done some rebuilding for others here on the forum, including redoing some parts for Pedro Sainz.
That is unless you plan on doing them yourself.
Yeah, Tram's been kind of missing in action lately. Don't know if he's just super busy with customer stuff, or taking care of his mom, or if his back is acting up again. But he's still alive, as his last post from him in the forums was last week.
I hope that all helps.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler
Joined: January 08, 2011
Posts: 3104
Location: Tulsa, OK
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| Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2020 9:22 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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Rust and debris in the gas tank? I wouldn't know anything about that...
Seriously tho, thanks for the heads up. I'll inspect carefully.
| Bobnotch wrote: |
The rust around the brake rez and tray look normal. Once you get in behind it, you'll probably find a bunch of dirt and rust, as those boxes I mentioned are dirt traps. On my wife's car it looked about that bad, while the right side was clean (rust free). All of the rest of the under hood area paint looks really good though. Almost like new.
Yeah, Ray visits over here occasionally, mainly because type 3s and type 4s have some similarities especially in their injection system, but also in the brakes (rears are the same, and some years the fronts interchange). In fact the 70 front rotors are the same as Ghias, but the calipers are t-3 only, in that they have 42mm pistons versus the Ghias 40mm pistons. I'm only mentioning this, as you can bolt the Ghia calipers on, but you lose 10% of your braking force doing so. Not to mention all of the parts places say they are the same (except they don't mention the piston size difference). Even he says you don't really need to use the factory pump, unless you're showing the car at someplace fancy. Leave them for the Porsche guys who can afford them.
If you're not in a hurry, I'd recommend sending your calipers and master cylinder to Jim Adney for rebuilding, as he does a great job on them, and offers fast return on them. I've had him do about 5 or 6 master cylinders for me, along with a couple of sets of calipers over the years with no complaints on my end. He's also done some rebuilding for others here on the forum, including redoing some parts for Pedro Sainz.
That is unless you plan on doing them yourself.
Yeah, Tram's been kind of missing in action lately. Don't know if he's just super busy with customer stuff, or taking care of his mom, or if his back is acting up again. But he's still alive, as his last post from him in the forums was last week.
I hope that all helps. |
Thank you for that, that's some good ol' fashioned info. I appreciate it! Glad to know Tram's still around, and also good to know Jim Adney is still in business. I'd seen some posts about him and the things he does for the type 3 world, but I wasn't sure if he was still around. Cool!
Yes a lot of the frunk paint is VERY nice. I was surprised. The rust in the frunk will get patched, the rust behind the front fenders will be buzzed off, converted, and sealed in due time. I probably need new front fenders at some point but I'm cool with some holes for a little while. No biggie.
I'm pretty much just making decisions as problems arise. I have a master plan for brakes, suspension, engine, and electrical. Problems just get dealt with as they come. Nice to have some resources to leap those hurdles if/when I get to them.
Thanks again guys for chiming in!
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-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22413
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2020 10:23 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Auto Fastback with FI |
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Yup Jim is still in business, and has an ad for his services in the Samba classifieds. I don't know if he's started getting ready for the type 3 Invasion yet or if he's waiting more until the last minute to get ready, as the powers that be are still still waiting to see/hear about any restrictions at the host site (Northern California this year).
Your approach is a good one though, and kind of take them as they come. Remember test before replacing, as sometimes the old parts are better than new replacement stuff. And a lot of the German parts can be rebuilt. And as a bus owner I'm sure you already know that.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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