1968 Daily Driver Build

[Buggeee]

[1968BUGMAN]

Hard to explain, I will try to film it and post a link. It is only when I turn and it is only when the car is on the ground. It also makes the noise when the car is not moving. The steering wheel also has excessive play.
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[1968BUGMAN]

The only thing I can think of is a very loud door squeaking sound.
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[viiking]

The squeak is only when under load and not jacked up. Recheck that the sway bar clamps are still aligned and tight. Also check the steering box attachment is still OK as well as the steering damper. Disconnect the steering damper and see if the noise goes away. I've had them squeak before when they are old.

Also check the opposite side suspension components to where you hit the curb. Force gets transmitted across the whole suspension.

Failing all that and after checking the wheel bearings, the only other thing is whether you've damaged the bearings in the front axle. Unlikely but just a thought.
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1968 1500 RHD Lotus White Beetle since birth. In the hospital for major surgery
1966 Lancia Flavia Pininfarina Coupe - in the waiting room
Discharged: 1983 Vanagon, 1974 1800 Microbus,1968 Low Light,1968 Type 3

[1968BUGMAN]

The sway bar is good because I have remounted it twice since then and it made the noise both times. The steering damper is new but maybe the jolt messed it up. Thanks for the input, I will look into the damper/opposite side suspension.
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[1968BUGMAN]

Finally started learning how to weld. I've had the welder for a long time, but I only got the bottle last Monday. So I went out and also bought an apron, gloves, car, magnets, angle grinder, and assorted others. Now, I am putting my plan to buy spring plates on hold until I get a few more paychecks. I worked on putting down beads of welds and then drilled a hole in some 22 gauge steel and then used a copper backing plate thing so that I could fill up the hole. This is practice for my plan to weld the chrome holes shut.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EjAWfCll0jL_t6v53oeZQ8dno8TsjYnf
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[1968BUGMAN]

My sunroof drains have been clogged since I bought the car, hence all of the tape on the roof. So today I tried to unclog the front ones and I discovered that one of the drains was filled in the bottom with rubber. This gave me some hope because I thought that it might have been the majority of the problem. But after trying to run weed eater line through the drains I found that it was filled with rocks. I tried for half an hour to unclog them before I ripped them out. I then went to home depot and bought some vinyl tubing to run through. Once I got it through the a pillar I had to get it onto the drain. This took a heat gun and some pliers to stretch the tubing. Once I got them on I ran them into some holes that were in the front clip. Now I have working front drains and the backs will probably have to wait another few weeks.

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[1968BUGMAN]

Just bought some rattle can paint from Amazon and I am going to begin repainting the outside of the car. The original color of the body was Zenith blue and I am trying to find a similar color for the outside. I decided on some Rust Oleum primer and their gloss protective enamel in gloss harbor blue. I will probably start with the sunroof and then move onto the hood and decklid. And then do the roof, and finally finish with the sides of the car and fenders. Hopefully I will be able to stop the rust and make the car at least somewhat shiny.
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[jhicken]

There is a product called IronX. It's a wash that gets rid of iron oxide [rust] in the paint. Before you start painting, you might try this.

Scrub the whole car good with soap and water [you should do this before painting anyhow]. After you rinse, pick a fender and spray it with the IronX. It'll turn red when it reacts to the iron oxide. let it soak a few minutes, then scrub it a little with your sponge then rinse it off well. This will get rid of a lot of contaminants in the paint including a little of the oxidation. Then hit the fender with some Meguiar's 105 Ultra Cut Compound. Wipe it off and then use some Meguiar's 205 Finishing Compound. Then finish it off with some Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax. Just do this on a fender and I bet you'll be surprised on how nice it'll look. If it works, it'll probably look much nicer than what you can do with a bunch of rattle cans.

Seriously, it'll take you a half hour on a fender, you go nothing to lose.
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Der Kleiner Kampfwagens

[1968BUGMAN]

Except for the car is rusting through. And the original color of the car was blue. Also the PO did a really bad rattle can job where they didn't even treat the paint underneath and so now it chips. It is also super rough. Once I sand the car to metal (I dont think I mentioned that I would do that) I do have some rust treatment that I will use. I also dont mind this taking forever. I will probably paint it in sections though. Thanks for the help though! I appreciate all of your guy's help and input.
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[1968BUGMAN]

And... the sanding and painting has begun. The sunroof and the rest of the roof was really rusty so I wanted to start it sooner than later. Also, around the sunroof drains was very rusty and pitted. I sanded down to metal and then treated whatever rust that I could not get out. I then filled the pits, dents, and imperfections that were to large for sanding. Then sanded the filler smooth and the whole area through the grits (80,120,220,32). And finally I added some Rust-Oleum automotive primer. While it is rough it comes out pretty smooth after wet sanding. I will probably end up going to a paint shop once I am done with primer and have them spraying paint on top of what I have. Also, I am now planning to have most of the inside painted as well. I just have to fix a lot of bad welds from the PO first.

Sunroof before sanding

After initial sanding

After rust treating

After body filler and sanding

After paint

Car after paint stripper

After sanding

After paint

My amazing seat for the time being

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[Buggeee]

Thorough work on that sunroof. Looks good.

If you find it useful, there are two kinds of primer, (1) self-etching and (2) filler/sandable.

The self-etching primers provide some measure of temporary moisture protection, the filler/sandable primers do not. The self-etching primers need to go on bare metal if they are to do their job.

So if you used filler/sandable primer and are not having it painted right away, it might be worth thinking about a quick coat of rattle can paint just to keep the moisture out so it does not rust from atmosphere, humidity or rain.
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[1968BUGMAN]

I am trying to get paint on it within a month and I will cover it every time it rains. I am now thinking that I may just do a full rattle can paint job because I read that the solvents in paint for a gun can make the rattle can primer flake. I will just use the color enamel that I bought and try to find a clear coat that will work with it.
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[1968BUGMAN]

Dang, I just went thourgh and figured out how much running boards, new carpet, sound deadening, new seat belts for the front, window regulators, scrapers, seals, and felt will cost. Wanna guess what it costs? $1022, I about had a stroke when I saw that number. Guess half the problem will be getting that money on my sad 10-14 hours of work a week. Oh well, at least it will look really nice eventually.
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[1968BUGMAN]

Planning on using some filling primer on the sunroof and then more of the same primer that I have been laying down. I'm now kind of worried that I could temporarily lose my job because of the corona virus thing (I work with food). That really sucks not only because I gotta pay for insurance, but because I am in the middle of painting. I think I will try to finish painting no matter what, I mean if they cancel school I will have even more time Plus I have spring break starting this weekend so I will be putting in 10+ hours a day. I feel bad for my neighbors, that angle grinder is looooud. I did drive it around yesterday for the first time in almost a week, I forgot how much fun the car is
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[1968BUGMAN]

Welp, just went to Home Depot for the millionth time so far in the painting project. Figured I had about $70 in cash laying around and that this is all I will spend on the project until the Corona virus thing is mostly over. Anyways, I decided to stock pile the paint in case if this gets a lot worse and Home Depot closes and I am stuck with not enough paint and a ton of time and nothing to do. It seems like they are getting ready to cancel the school for a while. So I will have a ton of time to kill. I picked up about $65 in paint. I got 7 more cans of primer, 3 cans of rusty metal primer for the pan, 5 cans of gloss black for the top of the pan, and 1 can of rubberized under coating for the bottom of the pan and fenders (I will probably need more of this). I have also started to lay down my color paint on the sunroof track so that I could put the sunroof back together. I will probably also shoot some filling primer on the sunroof to help with some spots from the bondo that I didn't fully sand out. I will post pictures when I get the chance.
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[1968BUGMAN]

I painted the sunroof drain area. Tomorrow I will prime the sunroof some more and paint sometime this week. Also, I am working on my very rusty foot rust just because.

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[Daddy o's 67]

A good paint to use on the pans and underside (floor pan bottom, under fenders, etc.) is Rust-Oleum oil base enamel. You can get it in qt cans and brush it on. A qt can will go a long way. It does flow out and hides a lot of brush strokes. I've used the Gloss Black many times and would use this over rubberized undercoating.

Don't buy the cheap "chip" paint brushes if your o this route. Go to Harbor freight and buy the $.79 2" Professional Brush. The hairs of the brush will not pull out as bad or as much as the cheap chip brush hairs will and the paint will flow out so much smoother. When your done using it, just through it away, not worth the price to try and clean.

This paint gets harder as it ages and is very durable.

[1968BUGMAN]

...So it has been a while since I have posted. I have worked on painting the pan, as well as some more of the car. However, rust started to show up through my rattle can primer, so I have decided to have an actual paint shop spray it and I will do the prep work. Also, I am going to install bumpers, running boards, and all new seals. I will start to post photos soon.
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[1968BUGMAN]

A while back I started work on the pan, and the pedal cluster. To do this I removed the carpet (I had removed the tarboard when I bought the car) I then started by wire brushing the pan. Next, I cut out the large rust spots and welded in new metal. I also cut out the heater duct things so that I will have more room under the seats, I will be adding a stereo later and this is where I will put the amps. After the rust was fixed I treated the pan for rust and then sprayed rustoleom automotive primer and then black Gloss Protective Enamel the next day. For the pedal cluster I disassembled it and wire brushed it with a Dremel and a small brush on a drill press. I then prepped the material and painted it.

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