Westfalia A/C vents & removing plenum

[Zeitgeist 13]

Baby Cheebus weeps salty tears whenever someone removes A/C from a van. Sad.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[jimf909]

After a few years of making my own faceplates that were okay, I installed the Rhino designs faceplate. It's an easy and attractive solution. I didn't bother installing speakers. I have nice MB Quart speakers/amps/equalizers up front and typically listen to a bluetooth speaker when camping.

https://rhinodesignstudio.com/product/westfalia-a-c-vent-cover-board/

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- Jim

[MarkWard]

Curious, did you attach it to the original face or does it replace the original face? I'm about to the point where I ready to reinstall the evap and both cabinets.

And more important? How does it blow? Thanks.
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[jimf909]

I attached it to the original A/C faceplate. Louis suggested attaching it using screws that retain the speakers. Since I didn't install speakers I replaced the 6 screws securing the grill with longer screws that reached into the original faceplate. You can see the rubber bumper trim of the original just below the new one. The Rhinodesigns product has a nice grey t-moulding on the bottom, vinyl piping on the other sides.

It still seems to blow every bit as well as before after the plenum removal.

Now my brain is going to putting small storage cabinets where the speakers were. Maybe two boxes about 6"x9"x6" - 7" or so deep. The resistors for the fans would be in the way which would prompt replacing them PWM controllers that I've seen several folks add...
https://www.amazon.com/JIUWU-Modulator-Governor-St...mp;sr=1-17
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- Jim

[shizzon]

Has anyone tried filling in the area where the speaker wiring went with instatrim?

https://www.amazon.com/InstaTrim-Flexible-Self-Adhesive-Caulk-Solution/dp/B07VWS41YQ?th=1
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1989 Bostig Syncro Westy

[MarkWard]

On my 90, the speaker wires are attached with tiny aluminum clips. The groove is where the vent assembly seats against the cabinet face.
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[shizzon]

[MarkWard]

No experience with the groove filler, but the aftermarket grill and face board got me to thinking over the weekend. There might be a way to adapt it so you could actually service the blower motors without taking it all apart. The VW replica grill is just not my taste, but maybe with the speakers installed it would stand out less.

What they are charging for the board and grill seems very reasonable to me. I doubt they are getting rich from them.
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[jimf909]

^^^ I was thinking a out that as well: how to make the faceplate hinged to allow easy access to the a/c box to get ta the motors, resistors, drains, etc. Give them a call to see if they have a non-VW grill. Louis was very helpful when I chatted with him.
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- Jim

[bobbyblack]

[MarkWard]

Not sure about your question. The resistors slow the blower not speed it up. At least that's my understanding.
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[bobbyblack]

Mark, thanks for that, as usual, I read thing backwards.. I hate dyslexia. Of course somewhere in my brain I did know that is what resistors do...
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'87 Westy 'Flossie','86 Westy 'R1','86 tintop GL - Subi2.2 'J2','83.5 stock tintop L 'ZoomBus','74 Karmann Ghia, '63 Notch

[MarkWard]

No problem.

My impressions are the camper AC factory install is ridiculous. It might have been fine new and under warranty, but its just not mechanic friendly on many levels. Too many pieces and to many big parts to remove.

I keep thinking I am overlooking the trick. There was no way to replace the AC hoses back there without removing the side cabinet. I can't see a way to reinstall the side cabinet with the evaporator attached to the ceiling and connected to the hoses. Its quite the jig saw puzzle.
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[jimf909]

[bobbyblack]

The video by ItalJohn does explain it quite well. Looks like what is needed is a pair of fat wires from the dash back to the blower. As it was built, seems that smaller wires run back there, and the relay does the job of switching power on to the fat red wires from the Alt to the D pillar up to the blower.

As for gummed up blower... well, not sure if that is the case, but I can stick my finger in it now and spin it pretty easy, its not stiff at all. I can borrow a meter to check draw though.

The problem I had was the relay in the D pillar that shunts power to the blower was corroded internally, or at least had that look after I pulled it out and dissected it. Perhaps it was the wrong one, installed after the PO had a similar issue. Certainly was different looking than the one in the D pillar in the blue/white '86 Vanagon in my yard. When I was going over the in-op A/C in 2016, I did see that the wires in the D pillar were showing some age or having been warm before. I did make sure all the connectors were tight, as this would be a common problem with loose connections. When I eventually found the source of the in-op, I did go back and look/feel the harness in the D pillar, and was assured by what I felt -- not hot to the touch. Perhaps the ticking time-bomb was the relay itself. Certainly could have been the end of the road. Good reason to go with a modern solution like the PWM seems to be. I wonder how long a run of wire can be used between the on/off/% switch and the PWM. Would be good to place the PWM inline with the air flow, to provide cooling to the unit. Keeping in mind, of course, that air flow in an A/C vent can get moist in certain conditions.

-bobby
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'87 Westy 'Flossie','86 Westy 'R1','86 tintop GL - Subi2.2 'J2','83.5 stock tintop L 'ZoomBus','74 Karmann Ghia, '63 Notch

[MarkWard]

Ok, this is directed to those that have modified the cabinet with slots for the drain hoses.

Are you attaching the drain tray to the evaporator somehow prior to installing the cabinet housing? My drain tray wasn't attached that I could tell, but it does seem to index on the blower housings on my 90.

I like the idea of being able to drop the cabinet without disconnecting the drain hoses. I also could connect the drain tray to the evaporator core.

Thank you for any insight. My drain hoses are too stiff to really use them again. I noticed the "funny pipe" used in irrigation sprinkler systems is the same dimensions. Its not really flexible, but could be molded I bet with heat. Otherwise I'm thinking clear tube as long as it doesn't kink.
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[campism]

[MarkWard]

I’m going to the local marine supply tomorrow. I’ve got the tray and one of the hoses.

I had to google plumbers tape. We call it plumbers strap. I don’t suppose you took a picture of the tray supported. Thank you.
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[campism]

I had that cabinet out and reinstalled before I realized how important that setup can be. I'll see if there's any reasonable way to get a pic without full disassembly.
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'87 Westy in Wolfram Grey Metallic

[MarkWard]

No need to do that. I was already imagining what you did. What surprised me was when we took the cabinet down a scrap of cabinet material fell out. Upon inspection it’s a support for the bottom of the tray. Tiny staples held it
to the floor of the cabinet. I have since glued it back to the floor of the cabinet. It even had a strip of headliner material on it.

I’ll post up what I come up with. Thanks.
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