Has anyone tried this?

[jpaull]

[jpaull]

[King_vw61]

I have one also. clutch is a Stage 2 220mm. I installed it thinking it would help the car survive with a stage 2 on the street. Seems to be fine so far. Just over 2200 miles on the build. Plenty of rough use of the clutch.
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1961 Ragtop, Autocraft 2783cc for street/strip 10k miles and counting...230.84 HP to the wheels thru Muffler 13.4 to 1 on E85
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[jpaull]

[Critter1]

Here is how the bushing usually sits inside the eyelet out of the box. Two points of contact. I've had this setup in all of my ACVWs. I take about 30 seconds with a pencil die grinder and slightly round out the eyelet until the bushing has full contact or at least contact with three sides of the eyelet. I do not have a photo of after its rounded out. You'll have to use your imagination. I'll let you know WHEN its lasted 100,000 miles....

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Justin

[nextgen]

Guys, for sure if I have a problem I will replace it with the upgraded version.

As one of the other said what clutch do you have, which obviously would be the part that need extra force to open and relate to excess wear.

My first ride in my bug back in 1989 with my T-4 engine, the biggest impression was the gripping power of my 210 mm BUS clutch.

We are talking 30 years -- same pedal Assembly, different cables?????

All I have done is shoot some oil on it, exactly when--- mmmmm, don't remember, but I did.
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[Onceler]

Looks weak and bendy and/or cracky for a performance application. I like strong since this is the performance section
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1972 Karmann Ghia

[modok]

A good strong pivot would be a hardened and ground pin in double sheer.

Every engineer knows that....

Take a look at a new cable... the cable end loop.... isn't very round, and it isn't very hard. I suppose it can't be hard, because it has to be crimped onto the cable. I am not sure how this was supposed to work.

We recently learned the rocker arms are SUPER hard, carbo-nitrided over 60 hrc. Miracles of MASS production.
Perhaps the original clutch cables had some kind of trick that made them far more durable, tho I don't know what it was. Folks in those days probably forgot more about aviation control cables than we even know now.


An elegant solution IMO, would have be use a single link of roller chain. make the "cable end" two pieces, instead of one piece. Cable ferule with a smaller singular hole + a single link of chain costs only a few cents......
a, miracle of mass production

[Onceler]

Are you suggesting increasing the price of a clutch cable? There’s more money in clutch shafts
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1972 Karmann Ghia

[74 Thing]

I have over 50k miles on mine (yes, I drive my car almost daily), and I have not had a problem. Kennedy stage 1 1700lb pressure plates.

With the stock hook in the Thing there would be a creaking sound that would occur after the winter months. This meant taking the pedal cluster out and re-lubing or attempting to spray a spray lubricant into the tunnel via the shifter mounting hole (the creak was not due to the clutch cable tube coming loose since I had that welded and reinforced).

Anyways the seller was a regular at Kelley Park and I talked to him every year but was stubborn and kept with the hook. Finally one year I paid for the hook replacement and the next time I had the pedal assembly out I replaced it and have not had a creak since.

I know there are different offset hooks for various years to help align the cable with the tube and it was a concern but mine aligned properly.

Welding and grinding the hook is always another way, and there are also HD hooks like the Fumio hook if you can find one.

This works really well for me in my convertible that gets driven.

[Critter1]

[Critter1]

When I rebuilt my 67 bug RHD pedal assembly, it had a crudely fabbed clutch hook. I cut part one of these modern clutch hooks to work on the RHD assembly.

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Justin

[liquidrush]

Well I got it in and installed it, only took a couple of minutes with re adjusting the clutch cable. The stud has a brass or most likely a bronze sleeve type bearing on it that rotates independently of the stud itself so when you press the clutch the stud moves along an arc with the pedal while the cable end is not subjected to any friction at all. The stud is just a steel shoulder bolt that has a hex head and is welded in place. If you look up shoulder screw on mcmaster.com you'll see what it is. I have a replacement cable that I'll modify for a better fit and report back but it looks like a pretty cool part to add. Greased everything up very well and wiped off the excess after a test drive.

[petrol punk]

It looks nice, but I'm a cheapass so when I noticed my hook was worn I welded a small partially threaded bolt to where the hook was and nyloc'd it. Almost the same thing except no nice bronze bushing.
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36hp '56 European DeLuxe oval, '70 bug 1835cc dual 36DRLA, and a '98 4x4 5spd single cab Tacoma

[Steve Arndt]

Another feature is not having to worry about the cable falling off the hook when installing the new cable.
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Steve
Steve's 87 Syncro project