The “Bob Dowell Van” Brake Project Issue

[EJZero1]

Finally got around to investigating my axle leaks.

Ordered new backing plates from CIP1. (Awesome pieces,btw!). New seal kits come tomorrow, so took some time today to start pulling things apart to investigate the source of the leaks.

Apparently when I assembled everything last time, the big seal did not slide over/around the big spacer, but instead just kind of crushed against it and mangled. Pretty easy to see why my leak was so readily apparent.. Next time I assemble, I’ll lube up both the seal and the spacer. Then will insert the spacer into the big blue seal before sliding the whole bearing cap assembly back onto the axle and torquing down.

Haven’t disassembled the other side yet, but I’m expecting to see a similar situation on that side as well.

Next update next weekend after we have the time to try it all again. Maybe the next update will include a first real drive!
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‘60 Kombi, The “Bob Dowell Van”

[1970PAKombi]

This is an incredible story - I hope you get it up to Becky and take pictures/a video for us. Isn't it crazy to think that after all of the various owners, nobody touched the original paint? What a story and congratulations

[Miskeroo]

The color scheme on your bus sure catches the eye, I love it.
Looking forward to seeing it cleaned up once you have the mechanics sorted

[AS350driver]

^^^^^^^^
Yes, what he said.

[EJZero1]

Got time to pull the passenger side bearing cap today, and found similar damage to the blue seal as I expected.

Carefully reassembled both sides, sliding the bearing cap into place with the large spacer already inserted into the blue seal.

Things got weird when we went to put the drums back on. Before we got even close to torque specs on the passenger side, the drum was tightening against the new backing plate to the point where it wouldn’t turn. Driver’s side went on fine. Passenger side drum appears to be a relatively recent replacement by the P.O., while the driver’s side is clearly older.

Took some measurements to compare the two. It seems the “height” of the newer passenger side drum is about 2mm taller than the older driver’s side drum.

I think this certainly explains why the taller drum is tightening against the backing plate, but what are my options? Can I get the “snout” or rim of the drum machined down a couple of mm? The other option that kinda makes sense to me is a couple of machine spacers on the axle first, then the drum. These machine spacers are the exact same inner/outer diameter of the small washer that goes on just befor the small rubber o-ring. 2mm worth would give me the clearance I need to keep the drum off the backing plate. Of course I could just order a new drum, but what if the next one is off by the same couple of mm?

Thoughts/suggestions please! Would love to finally take this thing for a ride!
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‘60 Kombi, The “Bob Dowell Van”

[Eric&Barb]

That measurement is not going to make any difference.

What is probably causing the problem is the snout INSIDE the drum is too short.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[EJZero1]

[Eric&Barb]

First measure the differences between the two drums. Then go from there.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[EJZero1]

[Eric&Barb]

[EJZero1]

[Eric&Barb]

Get a hardened steel washer to shim that. A softer steel washer will just end up getting squeezed thinner and thinner. Which in turn will result in the axle nut getting loose.....
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[EJZero1]

[Eric&Barb]

If you can find one that has the correct size ID hole in it, then the outer diameter edge can be ground down. Just do not over heat the steel when grinding, that will take out the hardness. Have a cup of water nearby to dip it into real often.

If you can find one with OD being correct, but ID too small, someone can lathe it easily open.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[EJZero1]

Well, time for a long overdue update.

After trying to chase down a handful of electrical gremlins, like why the generator charges sometimes/sometimes not, and how I usually have to hold the key in the “start” position for 2-3 seconds before the starter gets the signal, I decided it was time to bite the bullet and do a complete harness replacement.

Got the complete harness from WW, and I’m pretty impressed with the product and the manual that came with it. Spent quite a bit of time going over the manual while following along on the harness, and it all seems to make sense. I’m sure there will be a hiccup or three, but I rewired a Porsche 944 Turbo a couple of years back, so I’m thinking I’ll be able to figure it out.

Will be a bit before I get to this point, but here’s my only head scratcher so far. Per the manual, 2 headlight wires are supposed to feed into one end of this junction block. I’m 100% confident I’ve got the right wires and the right junction block, and there’s no way I can see both wires fitting.

I’m thinking I securely splice the two wires into one, then insert into the junction block. Thoughts?

Done some searching here and found some great threads on those that have already tackled this project, so armed with that help and hours of additional preparatory reading, today’s the day!

Stay tuned!
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‘60 Kombi, The “Bob Dowell Van”

[Eric&Barb]

Our SEC1959 built 1960 model walk thru panel camper conversion has just the two wires into the one side of the connector. Tis just in front of the looped red wire on the right:

Do you have the original connector?

BTW do not throw the old wiring away. Good to have that for repairs later, or add in things like gauges.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[EJZero1]

[Eric&Barb]

While you have the fuse box and the headlight switch out. The below makes a huge difference in how much voltage gets to all the items that you want brighter, faster, and louder horn:

For both the pre-1961 and later fuse boxes to remove all voltage drops:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483901&highlight=fuse+box+soldering

headlight switch to get out all voltage drops:

http://type2.com/library/electris/vw-hauptlicht-schalter.html
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[EJZero1]

^Thanks! I’ve read both of those threads/articles, and they’re on my list.

Meanwhile, attached the fish tape to the harness up front and pulled he harness out from the rear. Pulled straight out from the frame rail exit, and simply cut the wires for the tail lights and engine compartment prior to pulling.

Then did some taping on the new harness to minimize “catch points” during the pull. Pulling the new harness took all of 10 minutes. Took a bit of time to fish the tail light wiring up through the hole, but not a big deal at all.

Will continue the job tomorrow, to include headlight and instrument harness replacements. Will probably do the dome light harness as well, especially since I got a new switch.

Got the fuse box cleaned up pretty good with some naval jelly and a stiff brush. Soldering next.

Each step brings me closer to getting it back on the road where it belongs! Can’t wait!
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‘60 Kombi, The “Bob Dowell Van”

[ToolBox]