Fridge running on LP makes counter hot

[lucksp]

With my “new” 95 EVC I’m still trying to get things working. So I had never got the fridge to work with LP as the source. decided to try and fix it yesterday.

I followed the fridge cleaning instructions on 1705 (https://1705.net/norcold-3163-removal-cleaning/) because It seems to be the most thorough explanation. Now the fridge is getting cold even!

However after a solid hour running on LP at level 5, I noticed a “hot” smell and realized the Countertop is getting very warm. Especially on the right side of the sink kind of above the left side of fridge. As far as I can tell it’s hooked back up correctly.

Is this normal? (Probably not)

Could it be the exhaust?

[lucksp]

Welp, today I tested out the fridge again after the van was sitting for a week. The moment I turn the control panel from "Off" to "Gas Operation" the ignition lamp turns green.

There is no flame yet. Needless to say, when I hold the safety valve to try and create the spark, nothing.

So i removed the fridge and opened up the burner box. BTW - the silicone/copper gasket caulk recommended really seems to be a more airtight seal than the original fiber gasket.
How "sealed" is this supposed to be?

The Electrode looks to be in the correct position over the burner slots as the screw on the outside of the box pretty much guarantees it. I think the thermocouple is positioned OK too.

Any ideas why the lamp would just turn green without any spark or pressing of valve?

[kassak]

For the first question on the warm countertop, yes I think you have an issue where the exhaust is not being vented outside. That is the area where the exhaust and cooling tubes live. Is the exhaust tube properly connected to vehicle to outside? Is there a crack in the exhaust system? I wouldn't think the use of a sealing gasket vs. the fiberglass like OEM one makes a real difference. I would pull the fridge, take off the insulation on the tubes and inspect it. Could also take the burner box off, plug the exhaust and low compressed air in to see where it escapes.

For the other operational issues.

The indicator light illuminates when the thermocouple senses a flame OR it stays illuminated when the fridge is not receiving the negative 12V DC input.

The sparker is automatic and activated as soon as gas is selected on LP, it is not activated by depressing the safety valve. The depression of the safety valve actives the interrupter allowing gas to flow.

Normal sequence is:

1. Select LP-->automatic sparking initiates
2. Depress safety valve: deactivates interrupter allowing gas to flow to burner tube
3. Flame initiated-->thermocouple senses flame-->illuminates indicator light and deactivates the interrupter which allows gas to continue to flow
4. Stop pressing safety valve. Gas continues to flow as long as thermocouple senses flame as demonstarted by indicator light.

Google 3163 service manual, very very helpful. I'd past the link but I can never remember how to cut and paste with chromebook

[sagavan]

I noticed something similar with our van while running the fridge on LP. The countertop felt hot and the fridge didn't seem to get very cold. I'm guessing the added heat around the fridge made it difficult to cool. We closed the top lid so that the heat could vent up through the back of the countertop and opened the window behind it. This worked as a temporary fix.

I had a similar thought that the exhaust vent may be disconnected or blocked, however, I haven't taken it apart to see if that is what it was. We also didn't smell anything, nor did our CO monitor go off, so we just left it with the temporary fix.

Here is the link to the manual, which has a very good troubleshooting chart:

https://rvrefrigeratorrepair.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Norcold-Service-3163.pdf

Please let us know if you find the issue with the exhaust vent!

[EVC1999]

[sagavan]

[lucksp]

Unfortunately I haven’t been able to get the fridge running again. I replace the insulation on the exhaust. I even shortened the 2 pipes by 1/2” to allow for easier time getting fridge in so slightly less space is taken up and to allow for the correct angle to connect to the terminal. I’ve tried cleaning burner box. I tried moving the thermocouple to be more over the center of the flame. I replaced the relighted board.

At this point I’m going to get rid of the 3163.
_________________
'95 Eurovan Winnebago Camper "Henrietta"

[TFB777]

I've had a love/hate relationship with that damned stock fridge for 20 years now. As fickle as it is, mine still works...more or less - as it always has. However, now that electric fridges are so good and efficient, - And with lithium batteries becoming a viable game changer, I've made the decision to switch to full electric. I've already installed a BattleBorn 100ah LiFePo battery and this summer, I'll make a final selection on the fridge.

[subdewd]

You some regret going to 12v. Takes all the worry away. Especially in hot weather when it's needed most.