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ivwshane Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011 Posts: 1920 Location: Sacramento ca
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Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2020 10:53 pm Post subject: Steering refresh!? |
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So I decided to install the butty bits accelerator mod and that kind of led to a snowball affect and I’m fixing other parts in the area. So far I’ve refurbished the pedals and I’m awaiting a new hinge pin and spring. I was in the middle of replacing the steering coupler when I figured I should probably refurb my steering box before I completely reinstall the coupler.
I have a couple of questions though.
How do I completely remove the base plate cover?
I thought I remember seeing a thread on the steering box removal but all I’m getting is stuff for earlier models, does anyone have a link?
Now to the main questions: how do I remove the box? The coupler is disconnected so I just need to remove the pitman arm and four bolts right? I’ve read I’ll probably need a pulled of some sorts? Anything else?
For rebuilding the box (really I think I just need to re-seal it), what exactly will I need? _________________ 77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab |
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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16961 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 8:42 am Post subject: Re: Steering refresh!? |
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You will need a pittman arm puller. Even then, sometimes they don't want to come off. I've had to cut two off in the past.
https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/4HA48_AS01?hei=804&wid=804 _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 9:03 am Post subject: Re: Steering refresh!? |
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You need to pull the pitmann arm on the steering box, then remove the coupler at the top. Then the 3 bolts and the gear comes off. I''d set the steering centered before doing that.
You need new seals also. You also need a small torque wrench in the 0 - 25 INCH pound range to set it perfect and something like this:
_________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
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ivwshane Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011 Posts: 1920 Location: Sacramento ca
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Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 10:11 am Post subject: Re: Steering refresh!? |
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Is there a seal kit available? If not how do know which seal to get?
Sgkent, I’m not understanding what you are showing me. That looks like the top of the steering box but what am I supposed to do with it? _________________ 77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab |
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SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 10:20 am Post subject: Re: Steering refresh!? |
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you buy the seals separately. Several threads here on seal sizes
To properly set the gear box at the correct preload you need a means to turn the shaft. That home made tool allows one to hook a inch torque wrench up to the shaft. It is made from a spare clamp that went on a bay. The nut is only welded on one side so the clamp still works.
I'd tell you to come over and just do the work here because I have everything you need to do that job but we haven't been having anyone by since the SARS2 thing started.
Use double lip seals if you can find them.
SGKent wrote: |
This agrees with the above for an early bay. Thought I would add this - according to other threads here from several of the members over the years,
Early Bay steering box seals:
24x36x7
27x37x7
Late Bay steering box seals:
22x32x7
28x38x7 |
_________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
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ivwshane Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011 Posts: 1920 Location: Sacramento ca
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Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2020 10:26 am Post subject: Re: Steering refresh!? |
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Hmm....now you have me concerned with that tool. _________________ 77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab |
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sodbuster Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2004 Posts: 1084 Location: wherever my baywindow takes me.
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Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2020 8:32 pm Post subject: Re: Steering refresh!? |
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ivwshane wrote: |
Sgkent, I’m not understanding what you are showing me. That looks like the top of the steering box but what am I supposed to do with it? |
He is talking about the home made tool he pictured. It's used along with an inch pound torque wench to set up and adjust the steering box.
I made one for myself as well using a piece of strap steel and an odd 3/8 drive impact socket I had around.
I made it as close as I could to the VW 758/1 tool.
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tommu Samba Member
Joined: November 15, 2011 Posts: 618 Location: L.A.
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Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2020 11:04 pm Post subject: Re: Steering refresh!? |
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I just sealed up my steering box. It was leaking from both seals and the top cover. I sealed the top cover with loctite 518 and used seals from Alan Schofield . I had them delivered when I was in the UK - not sure what shipping here will be.
I didn't need to adjust my steering box so didn't set preload. How's your steering right now? _________________ |
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SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2020 11:11 pm Post subject: Re: Steering refresh!? |
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Tom, A set of double lip seals for a late bay in the USA are about $16 - $20 delivered from a bearing supply. I listed a new spare set last week for $8 shipped but tossed them because no one showed any interest. The 518 will work but the paper gasket is part of the preload measurement so it should be there, and the 518 thin. There are two preloads - one is the worm preload and the other the shaft preload. The worm preload is determined by the shim (which new ones of different thicknesses are not available), and the shaft is determined by how tight the screw is. The worm is made so that it is high in the center. That way when it is properly adjusted there is a slight drag thru the center. As it wears away with use that high area goes away. As long as it is not tighter off center than on center the box is still quite good. The reason the worm center is higher is that if the box was low on center and it was adjusted at that low spot then it would bind at the outside of a turn and the car would crash. The original factory gasket sealer that ZF used was Curil K2. _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
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