Engine Toast, What Now

[BrownEye02]

Well, its official. I have little to no oil pressure.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/5mr6v4vouYqLVa9JA

So, what now....? Well, I see three options but wanted to get some input and recommendations on what others think being that I have maybe a month of experience with water cooled VWs. If you want a bit more background with what I'm working with read this post.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9436515&highlight=#9436515
To save you the time though, here is a quick brake down.
*The van is a 1989 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg edition.
*I have basically two engines, one in the car and the one that came with it but was swapped out due to a blow head gasket and bent rod. Not sure of the condition of the crank or other rods and pistons.
*Automatic trans has unknown miles on it. Shifts great and sounds good, for the 200 miles I've maybe put on it since I've owned the van. ATF looks great if not new. Need to check the final drive fluid. Torque converter seal looked brand new when converter was out and has yet to leak since its original puke when I first assembled everything.
*Chassis is in great shape. Needs new springs as the current ones were cut and are too short so the van rids on the bump stops. Dents here and there but almost 0 rust. Minor electrical issues here and there but nothing I can't fix.

Now the options.
1. Using both the current and old motor along with common sense to replace new parts and have the motor rebuilt. I don't have the proper tools to do this so I would probably have a local shop do this. I would love to do it myself but would want to have someone who has years of experience rebuilding WBX engines guiding me and that opportunity is VERY hard to come by.
I've read a couple threads on recommendations for Colorado shops but the posts are quite old now and have found both Wolfsburg Autowerks and Blazer Automotive are out of business/retired. I see Indian Peaks Auto has basically taken place of Wolfsburg Autowerks but haven't read anything on the forms about them or if they even do WBX rebuilds. I had my air cooled 1915cc built through Painters Grinding and was happy with the work they did. They were very friendly and recommended I bring my bus back after I installed the motor to have the tune and everything checked up for free but I never got around to it. I cant find much on them doing WBX rebuilds though, even though their site says they do. Anyone have any feedback on engine rebuilds done by Indian or Painters or does anyone have any other recommendations for local shops in Colorado? Prefer to stick to local just to save on shipping being that this is the budget option.

2. Engine swap to a 1.8T. I've done some light research on engine swaps and would rather go this route then a Subi swap. I would probably go through Stephan's Auto Haus and purchase both the kit and engine from him, unless a good looking engine popped up when I was ready to pull the trigger local. My BIGGEST reason for not wanting to go this route is I just haven't owned the van long enough to know for sure if I like it for what I want to use it for and if I'd use it enough to merit the cash this swap demands. That and the fact my van is an auto. I've read a couple posts that the auto is happy with this motor but you would of probable seen another from me asking just to make sure. My original plan was to own the van for a couple years and see how everything works out. By then I would know for sure if I'd use it enough and it would probably be time for a rebuild then anyways. That or I'd just be fed up with the time spent in the slow lane. So I'm basically saying as long as I love and use the van this was this would be the end goal no matter what. Even if I go the rebuild route I'd probably do this swap 5 to 10 years down the road. In my eyes this swap is a "I don't care how much I've invested into this van. It will always be in my life and for the use I get out of it, the van is priceless to me."
I plan to use the van as a weekender for dirt bike riding, jet skiing/lake trips, winter ski trips, as well as a daily work commuter. I didn't want a full camper van as I didn't think I'd use all the camping equipment all that much. As for towing I ride stand up jet skis and use a modified single place jet ski trailer to tow two skis. Besides hopping in the semi lane going up hill the van should have no problem pulling them, trailer and skis are super light. Probably total the weight of one sit down ski.

3. Sell the van. I like this option the least as the bit I have gotten to drive the van I've loved every moment of it. Even with its current quarks, excluding the oil pressure. -_- Even after investing all the man hours just to get it here. I have little doubts I won't like it even after I invest more into it. I've had a split window bus since I was 16, 28 now that is a testament that I'm a VW van man.
But, I do only have about $3,800 total, excluding man hours invested into it now and its an option I should still have listed here.

Any feed back and input would be appreciated!!! I'm one of those that just talking about it helps me make a decision even if I end up not following any recommendations people give me.

[valvecovergasket]

What was the reason against the subi swap?
The 1.8t brings other complications like packaging for an intercooler, keeping things cool with a turbo, tilting a 4 cylinder at 50deg (though maybe you're ok with 15 degrees since it's not going to have a bed above it...)
Whereas the Subaru would simply fit below the decklid and not have the added complications of the turbo related ancillaries.

Just curious, if I had a gas van in need of an engine it's be Subaru powered in a heartbeat, and I hate hate hate Subaru engines in their natural habitats haha
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gone, but not forgotten: '83 tdi westy - swap thread

[jimf909]

[Tobias Duncan]

You did read this thread right?


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251094

[Ahwahnee]

An option you don't list is getting a rebuilt from GoWesty... that would be a 2.2 unless you want to go larger (larger $$$ too).

You don't say if you have a budget in mind but I'm hearing that someone else would be doing the specialized work so a crated rebuild may be the best value here.

[4Gears4Tires]

I wish my van was an auto. It's a utility vehicle to me. Autos are great for utility vehicles.

Now is a great time to swap in the 1.8t. I've only read good things about that swap.
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'87 Syncro
Ferric Oxyhydroxide Superleggera Edition

[markswagen]

you could put in a call to RMW in fort collins, they might have a good used engine, from someone who just wanted more ooooooomf, and throw that in there for now, save you some down time, instead of making one engine from two.
i certainly would buy a new rebuild, because if you end up wanting a 1.8t, you'll not get a decent amount of your $ back on it, when you upgrade, i would either make one from the two you have, or find a good used engine to put in there, until you decide if you want to keep the van, and convert the engine or not.
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markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.

619 201 0310

[Vanagon Nut]

[BrownEye02]

Let me try and answer everything the best I can.

Oil pressure reading right / did you read https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251094
Yes. I'm running 15w-50 mobile 1. I've swapped from a mobil 1 filter to Mann filter, replaced both oil sensors with used and brand new correct color sensors, replaced oil pressure relief spring with van Cafe aftermarket one, with no change in symptoms. On warm up I have no oil light. Oil pressure gauge was reading about 15 psi when cold on idle. Before start up it blinks as it should. After warming up I will get blinking on idle and buzzing from 2000 to about 3000 RPM. If RPM does not drop fast enough from 3000 to below 2000 buzzer will stay on even at idle. Which lines up with what the gauge is showing. I would be confident in saying the gauge is accurate to about a 5PSI variant if not lower. At idle this would be a big deal but the amount of pressure I was getting on rev was WAY to low and with the symptoms I was getting from the sensors and warning system it lines up with what the gauge was reporting. The only thing I have not done at this point is swap out the oil pump but I'm at the point of the amount of driving I've done would of probably done irreversible damage at this point with this low of oil pressure. I was probably low on my 300 mile guess as I've gone through at least 3 full tanks of gas since owning it. Lets say 300-500 to be safe. I don't know if the oil pressure light/buzzer was coming on since I got the van running as I only in the last 100 miles found that the high pressure wire was spliced into the ground on the distributor basically disabling the system. -_- Since fixing it it has been coming on but I just kept driving assuming it was a bad sensor as the engine didn't sound like it had no oil pressure.

Jet Ski Towing being heavy / climbing hills
Again need to do a bit of clarification. Where I'm at and the lakes I visit are mostly flat driving. Only one lake has some hills to climb but thats the last 3 miles of the trip and its a 35MPH speed limit can definitely take it easy in that section. That lake we only hit once a year.
Both jet skis probably weigh a total of 600 LBS and like I said the trailer is super small. https://photos.app.goo.gl/yxsqfiqbveR4JLek8
Know I'd have to take it easy still but have no doubt the trans and stock motor could handle it no problem. Not only that but I'd maybe use the van to hit the lake probably a total of 3-4 times a year. Otherwise would be just a day trip and take my truck, ford ranger v6 that acts like I'm pulling nothing. I think the hardest thing the van would do is climb to a ski resort and that would be just with my ski gear.

Look for a used engine
Forgot to list that as an option but I am actively searching to go this route. Nothing currently on ebay, classifieds here, facebook marketplace, or craigslist. Any leads would greatly appreciated!! I do need to give a call to RMW / Mr Mechanic to see if they have any laying around from recent swaps. If one pops up thats in good condition on the cheap this will hopefully get me that 2 years of experience with the van to finally make the decision to engine swap or not.

Why not GoWesty / 2.2 or higher.
If I stick with the WBX engine I feel it should be basic / on the cheap as I'd otherwise be getting closer to engine swap territory and for the power upgrade and reliability from a swap it would be a no brainer to just skip the middle man, in my eyes.
My budget does depend on the option I choose.
Used good engine 200-800$. (do tell me if I'm way off on this, don't really have a market to compare prices too.)
Rebuild I think it should be doable below $3000 especially using a mix and match of both motors, but again could be way off.
Engine swap. I will install everything myself but am not a fabricator. I can do crappy backyard welds and maintenance but that's about it. Reason for looking at a pre-made kit. As for budget, its probably one of those you don't want to ask/know the ACTUAL total.

[11BC2]

Subaru engines are fine... if built correctly.
The the re use of pistons and hand honing the cylinders is the dumbest thing I’ve seen done to a Subaru engine.
And I’m surprised that shops do it.
And grinding a Subaru crankshaft is the second dumbest thing; you end up spending more more money for an inferior part.
Cheap work produces cheap results.

[bobbyblack]

There are plenty of swaps going on in Colorado, check around with the places doing them, get a pull that was running.

Vanaru.com

Boxerswaps.com... There's more of course.

Later, when you've got some love built up, the "sell" option will be less which is of course my opinion -- only sell as last last last option.
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'87 Westy 'Flossie','86 Westy 'R1','86 tintop GL - Subi2.2 'J2','83.5 stock tintop L 'ZoomBus','74 Karmann Ghia, '63 Notch

[Wildthings]

I would get a gauge that reads 0-60 psi and see what it says. Many gauges are notoriously inaccurate near the bottom end of their scale so your 0-300psi gauge may be next to worthless. I would also check that the oil pressure relief piston mores freely in its bore and that the spring is spec length. Also pull the cover off the oil pump and check for any obvious damage, if you have too much end play on the gears you may be able to just remove the gasket and use sealant in its place and bring your oil pressure up significantly.

I am a strong proponent of running thinner oils, say 5w30 or 0w40 in these engines. I think one thing that happens to them is that the 20w50 motor oil that way too many think is giving them extra protections ends up fatiguing the relief valve springs causing a loss in oil pressure.

Note that 2.1 engines with their factory rod bolts are known to experience low oil pressure before the rods let go. This usually happens with 140-180K miles on the engines from the factory. If your engine has been rebuilt somewhere along the line then hopefully the rod bolts would have been replaced with the 1.9L rod bolts which are not known to fail.

[Vanagon Nut]

[tencentlife]

Could be the oil pump driven gear is slipping, it happens sometimes and it will look just like the OP's vid. Easy to go in and check, super easy to fix, and tighten up the pump endplay while you're at it. It would be silly to pull this engine without finding out.
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Experience is kryptonite to doctrine.

[Corwyn]

http://www.foreignautosupply.com/engine-and-drive-train-programs/gen-v/

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FAS Gen V 2.0
The Annual Baja Rally
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"If anything's" gonna happen, it's gonna happen out there"
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[Abscate]

Looking at the history you got woofed by someone selling you a bad engine and the disconnected the oil warning system to hide it.

Get a PPI so you know what you really have before spending more
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[bobbyblack]

[Hounddogs]

[valvecovergasket]

[khughes]