Author |
Message |
stayleft Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2012 Posts: 43 Location: Pennsylvania
|
Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 12:16 pm Post subject: Installed the pump on my SAH 1.8T - now Libby Bong QUESTION |
|
|
I've had my Vanagon for a couple weeks and I'm tackling a few of the great mods I've found on The Samba. I followed this guide and successfully installed the Bosch circulation pump and switch. My van is now overheating at idle, and from reading on The Samba, I'm pretty sure I have some air in my coolant system. I found some information on the infamous "Libby Bong" and rushed out this morning and picked up the supplies to build one. I realized on my first go at filling the bong that my Stephans Auto Haus converted 1.8T has only the pressurized coolant tank (the overflow tank has been deleted). I hope I'm referencing the tanks correctly. My "pressurized" tank (the one the Libby Bong attaches to) has an opening on the side that lets overflow coolant spill to the ground. It looks like it was designed (by someone) to do just that. Of course when I try to add coolant to the bong, it fills the tank to the level of the opening and the coolant runs out. I don't understand how this can be considered pressurized, and I'm not sure how to bleed the air out of my system with this arrangement. I'm new to this, and trying to search the posts the best I can before asking for help. I should mention I did not start the van before trying to add the first round of coolant to the bong. That's the way I understood the procedures first step. Any insight on what I'm missing or misunderstanding would be much appreciated. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
bluefirefly Samba Member
Joined: March 16, 2011 Posts: 438 Location: Calgary, Ab
|
Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 12:32 pm Post subject: Re: Installed the pump on my SAH 1.8T - now Libby Bong QUEST |
|
|
stayleft wrote: |
I've had my Vanagon for a couple weeks and I'm tackling a few of the great mods I've found on The Samba. I followed this guide and successfully installed the Bosch circulation pump and switch. My van is now overheating at idle, and from reading on The Samba, I'm pretty sure I have some air in my coolant system. I found some information on the infamous "Libby Bong" and rushed out this morning and picked up the supplies to build one. I realized on my first go at filling the bong that my Stephans Auto Haus converted 1.8T has only the pressurized coolant tank (the overflow tank has been deleted). I hope I'm referencing the tanks correctly. My "pressurized" tank (the one the Libby Bong attaches to) has an opening on the side that lets overflow coolant spill to the ground. It looks like it was designed (by someone) to do just that. Of course when I try to add coolant to the bong, it fills the tank to the level of the opening and the coolant runs out. I don't understand how this can be considered pressurized, and I'm not sure how to bleed the air out of my system with this arrangement. I'm new to this, and trying to search the posts the best I can before asking for help. I should mention I did not start the van before trying to add the first round of coolant to the bong. That's the way I understood the procedures first step. Any insight on what I'm missing or misunderstanding would be much appreciated. |
The cap is allowing the pressure to get out only in case of "over pressure" when it is needed (usually 10 to 15 psi depending of your cooling system) so your system is under pressure when hot.
You could plug the overflow hose during the filling with the bong (don't forget to unplug it when you are done).
I cannot help you more even if I have a system similar to yours (G60) as I didn't use the bong on this engine during filling, I only raised back and front to get ride of the air. My pressurized tank might be higher than yours (I have a 6" high deck now) and I only added coolant when the level was low in the tank. _________________ 86 Syncro Tintop G60
work in progress ...as always! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
stayleft Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2012 Posts: 43 Location: Pennsylvania
|
Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 12:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks bluefirefly. The "opening" is cut at an angle at about the midway/center of the tank. I will have to attempt to "cork it" because of the angled cut. I imagine this opening used to have a straight cut and a drain tube that attached to the overflow tank behind the license plate with the original WBX engine. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
bluefirefly Samba Member
Joined: March 16, 2011 Posts: 438 Location: Calgary, Ab
|
Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 12:43 pm Post subject: |
|
|
stayleft wrote: |
Thanks bluefirefly. The "opening" is cut at an angle at about the midway/center of the tank. I will have to attempt to "cork it" because of the angled cut. I imagine this opening used to have a straight cut and a drain tube that attached to the overflow tank behind the license plate with the original WBX engine. |
Do you have enough room to put a piece of hose on it?
It is often easier to plug a hose or to pinch it using pliers.
I am not sure what kind of tank you have with your engine so it hard to think about it.
You won't have too much pressure anyway, only the level of coolant inside the bong. _________________ 86 Syncro Tintop G60
work in progress ...as always! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Californio Samba Member
Joined: May 17, 2007 Posts: 1306
|
Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 12:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
If you have one of Stephan's 1.8T's, consider yourself a lucky guy. He's easy to talk to--you might try giving him a call.
I've never used a "bong." Just parked the van downhill, then bleed through the front and add coolant. Never had a problem with this.
I have an inline 4 as well and installed an overflow bottle. Easy to do, just one from the FLAPS.
Sometimes they have to go through several cooling/heating cycles to get the air out. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
stayleft Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2012 Posts: 43 Location: Pennsylvania
|
Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 3:14 pm Post subject: Thanks for help - I did the old school nose down method |
|
|
It worked great just putting the front end of the van much lower than the back end. I opened up the bleeder valve, added a bit of coolant and revved the engine around 2000 rpm on and off for about 10 minutes. It must have done the trick because the temperature staying in range at idle now without issue. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Honuak Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2009 Posts: 521 Location: AK
|
Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:16 pm Post subject: Update |
|
|
As previously posted I have an 87 with a 2.5 ru motor. I put in a recirc pump and used a hose clamp to restrict flow to the radiator. My pipes are not insulated (yet). I covered the fresh air intake.
I live in Alaska.
The recirc pump works great...too great. I turn it on and the heat gets much hotter, for a little while, the temp guage quickly drops and with it the heat out put. Bottom line is that when its cold, real cold, the cooling of the heater (from and rear) bring the op temp down too far.
Im not thinking about putting a valve in the radiator hose. Like a big version of the hot foot syndrome fix, but to go the other way. I imagine finding the sweet (hot) spot by incrementally closing the valve. In summer I could just open it up all the way.
Obviously I would make sure I didn't overheat.
Thoughts?
Im thinking I cant be the only one looking for a warmer van in the cold months... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
stayleft Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2012 Posts: 43 Location: Pennsylvania
|
Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I did the Bosch recirculation pump mod as well with great success. I did manage to pinch a coolant hose on two separate occasions when working underneath the front of my van. The first time was a mild pinch that restricted the coolant flow to the heater just a bit, but really cut my heat output. I didn't realize how much until I discovered that pinch while working on something else. I fixed it and the heat roared.
The second time I pinched the line more severely and that stopped all heat up front. I had worked on the van the day before, and instantly guessed I had pinched a coolant hose again. Both times this happened I had the spare tire assembly dropped down while working on the van. I thought I was being careful positioning the hoses when bolting the assembly back up into position. I was sure I had plenty of clearance for the coolant hoses, but ultimately even a little bit of a pinch or restriction in one of those hoses can really affect the heat (at least it did in my case.) I thought it worth mentioning just in case. _________________ 1985 GL Wolfsburg Tintop 1.8T |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Honuak Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2009 Posts: 521 Location: AK
|
Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 10:57 am Post subject: |
|
|
Update...
Putting the circ pump into the front heater core line did not work. So I made an inch and a half valve assembly. Im hoping I can limit the coolant flow to the radiator in cold months and push coolant into the heater core...should work. Also replaced the rear heater with an MSR boat heater (idea from SAMBA post). Yet to refill the coolant and test it all for leaks...stand by.
SAMBA |
|
Back to top |
|
|
stayleft Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2012 Posts: 43 Location: Pennsylvania
|
Posted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 11:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
If anyone deserves to have a warm van this winter, it is you! Nice work.
Honuak wrote: |
Update...
Putting the circ pump into the front heater core line did not work. So I made an inch and a half valve assembly. Im hoping I can limit the coolant flow to the radiator in cold months and push coolant into the heater core...should work. Also replaced the rear heater with an MSR boat heater (idea from SAMBA post). Yet to refill the coolant and test it all for leaks...stand by.
SAMBA |
_________________ 1985 GL Wolfsburg Tintop 1.8T |
|
Back to top |
|
|
kuleinc Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2007 Posts: 1604 Location: East Bay Area, California
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Honuak Samba Member
Joined: April 21, 2009 Posts: 521 Location: AK
|
Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 10:22 am Post subject: |
|
|
kuleinc wrote: |
Just FYI tubes with fins like that are not very efficient compared to bar and plate, if I recall correctly. There is a reason why no cars have radiators, heater cores, or AC evaporators and condensers like that these days... Most of the heat flows through the middle of the tubes un-used... |
Indeed that makes a lot of sense. However I will gladly trade less efficent heat for all metal parts. With the stock rear heater I was always paranoid that it would start leaking as so many have before.
I also replaced the vent outlets in the dash with new units, the old ones would let a lot of air by even in the closed position.
So maybe tonight I'll re-fill the system, check for leaks and wait for the cold weather...
SAMBA! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
flomulgator Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2013 Posts: 951 Location: Leavenworth, WA
|
Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 1:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Christopher Schimke wrote: |
If the heater core is the slightest bit plugged, it will restrict the flow to the core which is especially noticeable during low RPMs. |
Is there any testable metric to determine if a front heater core has restricted flow? _________________ She's built like a steakhouse, but she handles like a bistro! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
joetiger Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2005 Posts: 5078 Location: denver
|
Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2020 12:09 pm Post subject: Re: DIY-Cold weather, front heater solution |
|
|
thread resurrection...Took me half the morning to find the damned thing...
This little cold snap in Colorado has exposed my vintage air AC/heater as being inadequate, especially when coupled with a vw inline engine (as this thread illustrates.) It's strange how the inline engines have this issue. My Subie 2.2 never had a problem, nor any of the WBX's I've had.
The front heater in this van has always sucked, and now I find that I'm only getting warmth above 2500 or so RPM. I'm hoping that this auxiliary pump solves it.
(Luckily we're back to the '80's next week so I still have plenty of time to work on it. ) _________________ Joe T.
'86 NAHT Vanagon GL Syncro/ supercharged ABA 2.0 "Pigpen"
'04 GTI 1.8T
'04 Golf R32
"get metaphysical with it. if it's simply a means to get to and from places, it will let you down. if it becomes your zen, it can't fail you." -dabaron
"Still, it's good to be afield."--VWagabond
Available Now! Vanagon to Louisiana--A Two-Lane Reckoning Through Past and Present
www.josephtrussell.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
flomulgator Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2013 Posts: 951 Location: Leavenworth, WA
|
Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2020 12:35 pm Post subject: Re: DIY-Cold weather, front heater solution |
|
|
Hi Joe,
Since I was the last person to post on this thread 6 years ago I'll share what my solution was. While I did change out the front heater core when I tore into my dash (definitely recommend if you're going to that trouble) I believe the real culprit was the air box was just a leaky mess with one door not functioning right. Sealing the airbox up tight and learning to keep the coolant topped off while I had other slow coolant leaks really brought back the heat. Insulating the hot side hose with plumbing foam helped a bit too, it's a long cold run under the van and snow can pack around the hose. _________________ She's built like a steakhouse, but she handles like a bistro! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
joetiger Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2005 Posts: 5078 Location: denver
|
Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2020 2:19 pm Post subject: Re: DIY-Cold weather, front heater solution |
|
|
flomulgator wrote: |
Hi Joe,
Since I was the last person to post on this thread 6 years ago I'll share what my solution was. While I did change out the front heater core when I tore into my dash (definitely recommend if you're going to that trouble) I believe the real culprit was the air box was just a leaky mess with one door not functioning right. Sealing the airbox up tight and learning to keep the coolant topped off while I had other slow coolant leaks really brought back the heat. Insulating the hot side hose with plumbing foam helped a bit too, it's a long cold run under the van and snow can pack around the hose. |
Good to know. I re-sealed my old heater box when I got this van but it never really measured up to the heaters in my previous ones, especially in sub-20 F weather.
Now with the Vintage Air unit and its smaller heater core, I fear I won't have nearly enough heater power this winter, in the front anyway. The bench seat heater does a good job for the rest of the cabin. _________________ Joe T.
'86 NAHT Vanagon GL Syncro/ supercharged ABA 2.0 "Pigpen"
'04 GTI 1.8T
'04 Golf R32
"get metaphysical with it. if it's simply a means to get to and from places, it will let you down. if it becomes your zen, it can't fail you." -dabaron
"Still, it's good to be afield."--VWagabond
Available Now! Vanagon to Louisiana--A Two-Lane Reckoning Through Past and Present
www.josephtrussell.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
bobhill8 Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2017 Posts: 737 Location: MA
|
Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2020 2:32 pm Post subject: Re: DIY-Cold weather, front heater solution |
|
|
This doesn't apply to Joe, but for folks who are noticing their heat has vanished, it might help. Last winter I noticed that my waterboxer heat was getting more and more lame. Also, my coolant temp needle was riding lower than usual. Since I am often clueless, I thought "oh, the engine is running cooler because it's winter". Then the smart part of my brain kicked in and told me that maybe the thermostat was not working properly (kinda important). I had a spare, which I installed in a Cumberland Farms parking lot in Gorham, NH. Whatta ya know, the needle went back to normal and my son and I were soon toasty warm. We skiied that day and then the world came to a standstill, March 16th. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
buelteman Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2009 Posts: 20 Location: Montara
|
Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2022 9:10 pm Post subject: Re: DIY-Cold weather, front heater solution |
|
|
Just installed 1" thick pipe foam insulating tubing over the hot water source line from engine to where the line enters the dash and it makes a significant difference - best result ever for an investment of one hour and 10 bucks! Love that Stephan's Auto House 1.8T conversion! _________________ '91 Westfalia Camper - VW BNB
1.8 Turbo courtesy Stephan's
Custom Geared 5-speed tranny with
Peloquin Limited Slip Diff
H&R Progressive Rate Springs
300 Watt 13 speaker stereo
Audi Disc Brakes
LED driving and interior lights |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|