Type 4 T-Stat test

[malcolm2]

In the past I have done the boiling water in the kitchen test.... But today I realized that I had not tested my fully installed T-Stat. So I got out the heat gun and the laser thermometer and gave it a try.

FLAPS and STAT ARE COLD.

ADDED SOME HEAT.

FLAPS MOVE.

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My Toys: '75 Porsche 914, '92 Ski Nautique and now a 1972 VW Transporter Deluxe (punch list fixing)

[busdaddy]

Looks pretty good, but why is the cable curved when it's in the hot position?, the lever doesn't look like it's in the full hot position (straight up), is the failsafe spring installed correctly?, looks like it's only letting the flaps open 3/4 way.

As for the hot water test (or heat gun), never ever test a thermostat out of it's bracket, it has to be corralled in the bracket to prevent stretching it past it's useful range of operation. What you've done there is fine, but I have seen others blow the thing up to 4+" long, they never recover from that.
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[malcolm2]

I think the curved cable in the picture is the excess. I wrapped it around stuff.
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[busdaddy]

I'm referring to the lower section, it doesn't appear to be under much tension, yet the flaps aren't fully open, the moustrap spring on the crossbar should be pulling on it hard enough to almost straighten it out.
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[malcolm2]

Pretty straight....

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[sjbartnik]

busdaddy is right, something is not right with the spring that pulls the flaps open.

When fully open, that tab that sticks up from the flaps rod should be vertical.

The spring does NOT go under the nut/plate on the tab, only the end of the cable does.

Somebody throw up a photo of how it's supposed to be at the flaps rod please.
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[malcolm2]

OK here is a thought. I will heat the Stat and attach the cable with the TAB straight up and the Stat fully extended.
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My Toys: '75 Porsche 914, '92 Ski Nautique and now a 1972 VW Transporter Deluxe (punch list fixing)

[busdaddy]

I meant the lower of the 2 parts of the cable on the upper clamp/lever, the one that does the pulling (not the free end) looks limp. Maybe it's just due to a stiff cable?, or clamped on a funny angle?

Bottom line is that lever has to be vertical when hot, try your warm thermostat adjustment theory. Or unbolt the thermostat in it's bracket and pull the cable tight when the lever is vertical and clamp it, then pull the thermostat forward and install the hold down bolt. the flaps may not end up fully shut, but when warm they will be fully open that's what matters.
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[udidwht]

If this is an Awesome Powdercoat T stat it will 'begin' to move open at 185F-194F (not full open) So the adjustment side should not be vertical at that specific temp.

At what temperature does the thermostat open?

German stat for type IV carb and FI engines, and 4 cylinder Porsche 912 and 914 engines, starts to open at 85-90C (185-194F)

Do you have the small spring on the adjustment end?
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[Vanapplebomb]

You may also want to check and see if the crossbar is twisted. Remove the front half of the blower housing to confirm the flaps are where they should be hot and cold.

When cold, the 1/2 side flap should be down against a small boss cast in the blower housing which keeps the flap from completely closing. The 3/4 side should be up to the upper cooling tin which the lower edge of the flap nearly touching the blower housing.

When hot, the 1/3 side should be fully open. The 3/4 side should be fully down against the oil cooler tin.

Bend/twist the bar to synchronize this operation if it is out of whack.
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http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

[nogoodwithusernames]

[malcolm2]

SUCCESS. I think I HAD the cable wrapped incorrectly. Same goes for the TIV in my 914. There is a curved "ramp" on the flap rod at the pinch point for the cable. If you wrap the cable UNDER the pinch bolt, the cable rides on the ramp.

You can see the use of the RAMP in this picture. I am calling this correct. Why else would they put the ramp there? I think it keeps from having a sharp bend in the cable and gives it longer life. As if 45 years was not long enough.

HERE IS A SHOT OF THE SPRING. Looks right to me. IIRC when installing the spring, there is only one way to go. Either it is too loose, just right, or you can't quite make it go any tighter. Brilliant.

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My Toys: '75 Porsche 914, '92 Ski Nautique and now a 1972 VW Transporter Deluxe (punch list fixing)

[malcolm2]

This is my 914. Started her up to get her warm.... I have the cable wrapped wrong here too. But the tab is pointed straight up when hot.

HOT.... Flaps open fully

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My Toys: '75 Porsche 914, '92 Ski Nautique and now a 1972 VW Transporter Deluxe (punch list fixing)

[busdaddy]

Much better!
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[dawie]

With a running engine, air pressure probably helps combined with spring pressure to open flaps when thermostat starts to open.

[raygreenwood]

Also....a lot of people never notice this....but on the flap rod....about 1 foot to the left of the clamp for the thermostat cable (when you are standing on the fan end of the engine)...there is a "cranked" section of the flap rod right near the distributor...right before it goes int the nylon bearing and teh left hand flap housing.

When you are setting the thermostat cable up....this "cranked" section of flap rod is you "third hand". Simply rotate the flap rod to full closed and insert a simple wooden or plastic wedge into the cranked area between teh rod and and the cooling shroud.

This keeps the flaps tightly closed while you use both hands to install and tighten the T-stat cable.

Ray

[udidwht]

[raygreenwood]