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My air-cooled to 1.8t build
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2020 7:57 pm    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

Hey Revolution: way to go! Nice looking install. Thanks for posting details like Gates hose numbers and stuff.

What did you build for an engine carrier?

edit: looks like you did an under oil pan carrier?

Does the center of the 1.8T crank sit much lower to body than the air cooled crank?

I've been toying with the idea of a 1.8T

Neil.
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metropoj
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2020 4:45 am    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

revolution337 wrote:


Thats awesome, thanks for taking the time to upload those. I was able to find the diagrams elsewhere on the internet and got my wiring done. Those photos will hopefully prove to be very useful for any others looking to do this swap though!


No problem.

I did however find out after comparing some earlier pinout work I started that the AEB Audi and Passat use different connectors at the coloured connector t10 side. These are the 4 big plug ins that are on the body side of the harness.

I have 1 Passat harness ( connectors Yel, Red, Brn and blk ) and 2 A4 harnesses here ( Org/Red, Brn, Blk, Org ). I wasn't expecting that ! So I guess I should find the A4 AEB wiring diagrams if I choose that harness over the other.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 6:19 am    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

Rev, I read you used the KEP Clutch / P Plate.

Did you choose the std type pressure plate and clutch scenario or something more beefed up ?

I asked because I recently purchased a used FAS kit that came with a KEP stage 2. I was planning to just use a std 228mm Vanagon Clutch and PP. I know some use the VR6 Pressure Plate and probably others.
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revolution337
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 9:47 am    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

metropoj wrote:
Rev, I read you used the KEP Clutch / P Plate.

Did you choose the std type pressure plate and clutch scenario or something more beefed up ?

I asked because I recently purchased a used FAS kit that came with a KEP stage 2. I was planning to just use a std 228mm Vanagon Clutch and PP. I know some use the VR6 Pressure Plate and probably others.


I used the Kennedy “stage 2” clutch and pressure plate, with single mass flywheel. I was told by KEP that the standard clutch would have been fine for my engine application, however I wanted to “future proof” the setup in case I get a chip tune for the engine in the future.

As far as it’s driveability is concerned, it still feels and operates buttery smooth. Feels like a stock clutch, in both pedal feel and engagement.
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metropoj
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 10:31 am    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

OK good to know.

I already have the Weddle clutch cross shaft when I did my current conversion and all that.

I have that new Sachs stock Clutch disc. Maybe I'll combine that with my KEP St2 Pressure Plate and see how it goes on during assembly.

Thx.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 11:51 am    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

I have a question about an 82 Vanagon. Is it worth having one? Truly I am a 40 year old single mom who's child just left for college and i really want something where i can go off for the weekend without having to worry about getting a mote etc..

I found one that i am going to go look at in Portland area for a fair price with lots of upkeep and "new".

I own a 67 beetle as well so just really need advice on what to look for and what things i should be asking specifically to the integrity of the Van.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 1:01 pm    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

delia515 wrote:
I have a question about an 82 Vanagon. Is it worth having one? Truly I am a 40 year old single mom who's child just left for college and i really want something where i can go off for the weekend without having to worry about getting a mote etc..

I found one that i am going to go look at in Portland area for a fair price with lots of upkeep and "new".

I own a 67 beetle as well so just really need advice on what to look for and what things i should be asking specifically to the integrity of the Van.


Place separate post. Many will help you out. Put as much info as possible about the van. Pictures always good.
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tristessa
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 5:15 pm    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

metropoj wrote:
I have that new Sachs stock Clutch disc. Maybe I'll combine that with my KEP St2 Pressure Plate and see how it goes on during assembly.

The Sachs discs seem to still be OK but some of the PP's are maybe suspect. Buddy of mine just replaced the 200MM Sachs PP in his '69 Westy when it failed after 3.5-4 years .. and one of those years (a full year!) the Bus was at a body shop for a nose replacement after an accident. He put in a St1 KEP PP and new Sachs disc and so far so good.
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metropoj
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 5:31 am    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

hey Rev: Just to backtrack as I go through your pics.

You mentioned you had an Auto AEB. I see you added an extension onto the crank end to mimic the nosecone portion of a manual transmission. Did you make that piece or purchase it somewhere ?

Did you end up using the V6 Pilot Bearing, put in backwards and cut the end cap off it ? I read that in a posting somewhere of what people had been doing. I have gone down this route but I like the little nose you put on the end of yours Smile ...
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metropoj
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2020 7:05 am    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

tristessa wrote:
[ He put in a St1 KEP PP and new Sachs disc and so far so good.


Ok, that's good to know, thx for this !

My load of seals and goodies just arrived from various sources to start reassembly of this motor and start all the wiring and fun.
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revolution337
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2020 12:43 pm    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

metropoj wrote:
hey Rev: Just to backtrack as I go through your pics.

You mentioned you had an Auto AEB. I see you added an extension onto the crank end to mimic the nosecone portion of a manual transmission. Did you make that piece or purchase it somewhere ?

Did you end up using the V6 Pilot Bearing, put in backwards and cut the end cap off it ? I read that in a posting somewhere of what people had been doing. I have gone down this route but I like the little nose you put on the end of yours Smile ...


I purchased it from a guy on Audizine that makes them for 5 speed swaps in B5s.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/8803...nual-Swap)

He shipped it with an OE 1.8t pilot bearing already installed into the piece. He also provided a short piece of round stock that is the exact diameter to drive out the old automatic torque converter bushing. You simply use the same technique as you would removing a pilot bearing.....pack it full of grease and hammer away on the rod. Installation was as easy as finding an appropriately sized large socket to fit over the whole piece, then hammer it in until it is flush. Piece of cake, highly recommend it. Saved a bunch of headaches.

edit: photo of adapter added.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Last edited by revolution337 on Thu Oct 08, 2020 8:17 am; edited 1 time in total
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metropoj
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2020 4:33 am    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

Awesome thanks for the link to that guy, I'll check it out.

I haven't physically installed my V6 bearing yet but cut the end off so it's ready for install.

I ended up using the old smushed up bread trick to drive the bushing out of the crankshaft end. I worked like a charm !

Thanks for your postings as well on your progress.
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revolution337
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 03, 2022 4:43 pm    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

Well after almost 2 years and about 2500 miles, I had my first hiccup with the 1.8t.

With the van all packed up and about to take off Saturday morning for a quick weekend camping trip, I went to fire up the van and it didn't start. It ran fine the day before when I drove it to the gas station to fuel up, and nothing else really changed since I parked it. It would crank and crank, but not fire off. First thing I did was go back to the rear of the van to take of the engine cover and start inspecting. During this time, I noticed a strong fuel smell coming from the exhaust. I knew that the engine was getting fuel, but I had no ignition, clearly on any cylinders. Knowing that the ICM was a common point of failure on these engines, that was my first suspect. I quickly was able to swap it out with another spare unit that I keep in the van. Tried again, and boom it fired to life! Luckily it was a quick and easy fix, and we were still able to go camping that weekend. Van ran fine the rest of the trip.

With this failure in mind, I thought it would be a good time to invest in performing an ICM delete. That way I can utilize the newer (cheaper) and more powerful ignition coils from later TSI/FSI engines, and get rid of the ICM altogether.

There are various was to perform this. You can chop up the old engine harness and wire in a new section that accepts the newer 4 pin ignition coils. Various methods of that are explained across the web.

https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/615999-AEB-ICM-delete-amp-AWP-upgrade-DIY

https://www.passatworld.com/threads/1998-volkswagen-passat-1-8t-aeb-icm-delete-diy.333953/

There are also a few companies that sell adapter harness kits that require no cutting our splicing of the original harness. This is the method I chose to pursue, for a few reasons. Obviously it is a much quicker and easier install, but the main reason for me was the fact that in doing it this way, the conversion is easily reversible. I can do back to the stock setup with the ICM in the future, if required.

There are a few companies that offer this harness conversion kit, such as 034 Motorsport.

https://www.034motorsport.com/coil-conversion-icm-delete-kit-early-1-8t-to-2-0t-fsi-coils.html

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The FSI coils are a good bit taller than the factory AEB bolt down coils. When you use the newer style FSI coils on an older style valve cover, you need to install come sort of spacer to fill in the gap of this space, and also to help cover the spark plug hole to keep debris out. Most of these companies sell super nice anodized spacers that bolt down to the valve cove. Although these are great, they are a bit pricy, anywhere from $50 to over $120 depending on the brand.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After doing some research, I found that many people had good results using a factory VW part. It is from the early gen Touaregs, and they are plastic pieces that simply push down into the bolt holes. For less than $5 a piece, I figured I would try them out as well. VW part number 077 905 390

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Onward to the install. This is what it looked like starting out. You can see the ICM zip tied to the air intake boot in the lower left of the photo, with the heat sink attached to it. In the factory setup in the Passat, the ICM is installed in the clean air side of the airbox, to help provide airflow and cooling across the heat sink. Clearly mine was not placed in an ideal location when compared to the factory, and this placement could have definitely played a part in its failure.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I removed the old bolt down coils, and the ICM unit itself. I then test fit one of the Touareg coil adapters. It was a tight fit, but snapped into place perfectly. You can also see one of the coil harness adapters installed.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


ICM removed and the "jumper" harness installed in its place.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I then installed the remaining spacers, coils, and harnesses. I routed the wiring as neatly as possbile. When it was all finished up, it looked like this. (Note the red coils, bling bling points)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


With fingers crossed, I went up and fired up the van. It started right up and ran just as smooth as I could ask for. No warning lights, no faults. I have't had a chance to take the van out for a drive yet, but I do not anticipate any issues. Overall I am very pleased with the results. Also, I updated my "spare parts" bag by removing the old spare ICM and bolt down coil, and adding one of the new FSI coils.
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revolution337
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2022 5:44 pm    Post subject: Re: My air-cooled to 1.8t build Reply with quote

Finally got around to finishing up the Slaughterhouse Customs EPS kit. I posted a few pictures and information about it on another thread, but figured I would also add it here.

Had to trim a good bit off the lower left portion of the heater box to allow room for the EPS motor. Filled the void back in with some scrap foam, and seems to be sealed just fine, no air leaks from the heater box. Although some other users reported no issues bolting the EPS column right up, I had to trim a small section from the lower edge of the dash to allow proper fitment. No biggie, its all hidden behind the column trim.

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I've had the unit up and running for several weeks now, and boy what an improvement, especially at low speed turning (such as in parking lots, or tight camp spaces).

The kit came supplied with nice trim covers for both the EPS motor, and the lower portion of the steering column trim. I had to trim about half of the lower column trim piece off, and then riveted the supplied cloth to the smaller upper portion. This is one of those "measure twice, cut once" moments. I also had to think hard when riveting the cloth, as to make sure I installed it inside out so that when the was folded back into proper position, the rivets were hidden. The whole unit is certainly a bit bigger than stock, and even with the covers it does look a bit odd. But I'm sure I will get used to it, and I feel the benefit of the system outweighs the cons.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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Previous owner of the van apparently had gauges installed in the heater box trim at some point, as you can see from the large hole on the outer edge. It's been bothering me for some time, and I need to find something to cover it up. Maybe a cool sticker or patch.
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1982 Westfalia AEB 1.8t
2017 VW Golf Sportwagen
2001 Audi A4 4.2 V8 swapped
2000 BMW Z3 roadster
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