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Hazard Switch Fix
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CarterWohl
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2020 12:41 pm    Post subject: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

When I first bought the car the turn signals and hazards did not work and the dash indicator turned a solid green. I began taking apart the turn signals and have redone the wiring of the light bulbs. The fuse kept blowing but I moved onto the hazard switch. The top was popped off and I have taken it out now. I’m not sure where the ball and spring goes as well if I’m missing any pieces. Can anyone let me know if I need a new switch or how to put it together? Thanks!
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2020 9:54 am    Post subject: Re: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

Sadly you are missing one of the metal bars with the 2 bumps on them from the middle slot, the ball and spring went under it.
If you do find it a zip tie around the switch will keep it from coming apart again.
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gt1953
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2020 10:18 am    Post subject: Re: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

Most of the time the switches are loose do to the small crimps. You have to tighten the crimps to keep the switch together. Yes a tie wrap will work as well. Not the emergency flasher switch but all of them.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2020 10:44 am    Post subject: Re: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

I found a thread where they took the E-Flasher switch apart. It has good pics. You may have all the pieces. It looks like there are more springs below one of the contact plates. Maybe you can still put your switch back together.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=638691&start=53
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Lew
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2020 9:35 am    Post subject: Re: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

My 72 has a properly wired flasher switch per the wiring diagram. MY turn signals work just fine and the flashers work without the knob screwed in place. If I screw the knob in the flashers stop working. Any idea as to the problem...I have tried two different knobs that are good, and the same still happens.
No knob the flashers work just fine. Knob in place no flashers.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 10, 2020 2:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

Sounds like a problem with the bulb inside the knob. Without the knob the illumination circuit is open and causes no problems. When you screw the knob on something is shorting.

See the thread two posts up. The OP had a problem with the spring that maintained connectivity to the bulb was blowing the fuse because it was grounding and blowing the fuse. Maybe yours is doing something similar.
With the knob installed, check if any of the terminals has a low resistance path to the body of the switch or the ground (31) terminal.

Also, if it is a short, check that your fuses have not blown.
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Lew
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2020 1:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply. When I first started trying figure out what was wrong, I tried to test the bulb by putting 12 volts to the knob. The Shaft was with my lead ground and the other lead touched the threaded part of the knob and it blew a fuse. Today I removed the bulb from the switch and the problem still exist. So without a bulb the flashers should work in a normal condition correct?
Hope I am making myself clear. All fuses are good.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2020 4:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

Here is a pic from the above thread showing how the knob+shaft are powered:
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It shows the clip at the bottom which grounds to the case of the switch. The small contact at the left end of the knob-shaft is the other contact. With the bulb removed there should be no continuity between these two contact. But if you check these two contacts and find there is zero resistance between the two it suggests there is a short between the two even with the bulb removed.
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Lew
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2020 11:53 am    Post subject: Re: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

After taking a much closer look at the end of my threaded knob I see there is a insulator between the treads and the contacting tip. If testing now with my multimeter on the contacting tip and not touching the threads like before, and with the other lead touching the knobs shaft there is no continuity with the bulb removed. I know now why I blew a fuse trying to put 2 volts on the knob. I created a short by touching the knob shaft and the other to the threads.
If possible you think maybe we could chat on the phone about my problem?

I can be reached at my cell # 912 222 5376

Lew
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2020 8:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

The thread above goes into greater detail than I have experience with. I've not taken the E-Flasher switch apart before.

It looks like that ball and spring in your picture are not electrical and are there to produce the detent to hold the switch in the ON/OFF positions.
But there are additional pieces under the 6-sided shaped brass conductor.

I'd recommend you review the above thread and carefully re-assemble the switch. Once you have everything back together without the knob, test that none of the terminals have zero resistance to the case body or the #31 terminal. Install the knob; pull the switch to the ON position; remove the knob; retest. Again, none of the terminals should have a zero resistance path to the case or the #31 terminal.
Install the knob and retest in both the ON and OFF positions. I suspect there will be a high resistance path now as the bulb in the knob provides a path to ground. But it should still not be zero resistance. Any resistance less than 1.7ohms will blow an 8A fuse. If at anytime you measured less than 1.7ohms you will blow the fuse.


To confirm the E-Flasher switch is functioning:
E-Flasher OFF:
    #15 connected to #49
    #30, #49a, L and R... not connected to anything

E-Flasher ON:
    #15 not connected to anything
    #30 connected to #49
    #49a, L and R cross connected together
    #49a to bulb and then to ground. This means a high resistance path between #49a and #31.

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'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
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DesignBuild
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2020 8:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

One thing I see a problem with is that there is no resistor between the terminals on the top of the switch. Does the reverse side of the switch have VW pat numbers along with the VW stamping?

If it has no part numbers or the VW stamping, then you have a reproduction switch and they are junk. The link Ashman40 provided is to the long discussion we had as well as all the pictures I took of the inside of the switch. The spring under the ball on one of my switches was grounded, over heated and fried the switch internals. Some of the switch knobs coming from Brazil are not insulated inside the shaft of the knob; they also pull apart very easily. The old style knobs were used on Porsche cars too. The long shaft knob was used on cars with the crash pad and the short shaft knob was used on cars without the padded dash.

Ashman40 came up with a replacement for the emergency switch. it is here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=60
I don't think he ever built it. I was going to build it and I may but it will have to be next month. I am still recuperating with my new hip.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2020 8:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

DesignBuild wrote:
One thing I see a problem with is that there is no resistor between the terminals on the top of the switch. ?

The resistor is only found on 73 or 74+ units (whenever the DOT mandated it had to glow with the dash lights), earlier switches lack that feature, even genuine ones.
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Michael Ambrozik
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2020 3:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

A new switch cost about $26.00. You can find it at Cip1, Wolfsburg west, JBugs.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2020 4:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Hazard Switch Fix Reply with quote

Careful, many sellers say the switch they sell fits earlier models, not all do, confirm they have the same terminal count and same numbering on the terminals before ordering. Most don't work with combined stop and signal bulbs, only for separate signal bulb systems.
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Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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