Pulling engine and trans 70 bus, what maintenance should I do

tristanblue · Samba Member Joined: May 30, 2019 Posts: 294

I pulled the engine on my new 70 bus to do the gas tank. I noticed the CV boots were bad so decided to do those while engine was out. I also decided that I should probably just do the differential side seals while I am at it ( I am sure then have never been done).

I think I will just pull the trans to do all of this, easier on a bench and I can clean her up as well. While the trans is out I thought maybe I should do some other stuff too. So I am here looking for tips on items I should address, replace service while I have all of this out of the bus. Here are some things I thought of.

-transmission main seal and front shift rod seal, as well I hear there is a plastic shift ball to check?
-transmission of course the differential side seals
-transmission nose mount. Do these go bad? Do you need to pull the trans to replace this?
-shifter, rod and tube tube bushings etc, I am guessing you can only remove the shift rod when the trans is out (like a split bus)?? Never did a bay bus one before, what is there that needs addressed.

Anything else I should address or check on while engine and trans are out? Like I mentioned I pulled and cleaned the tank and installed all new hoses for that already.

Thanks[/quote]

halfassleatherworks

check everything you can get at, seals on trans clutch and pressure plate, flywheel seal, crank end play, heater box controls and so on.
_________________
Halfass Leatherworks*****GOT LEATHER Made to order Leather crafts, you can find us on that face book thing

Belts, wallets, mouse pads, drink coasters, Engraving, most things made in leather.

personal items if you want it in leather in Reno Nv, *****

hazetguy

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338

The transmission output shaft seals are not that hard to do with the transmission and engine installed and are likely not very old, so I wouldn't skip doing them. The flywheel seal, gland nut, and tranny input shaft seal would definitely get replaced along with the clutch disc if it looks anything less than perfect. Anymore I don't just replace the throwout bearing and clutch cover unless they are pretty rotten looking as new replacements aren't always the best.

Check how much end play the engine has, don't expect it to be within spec, but if you have 0.050" or something else extreme, now might be the time to split the case and address it.

tristanblue · Samba Member Joined: May 30, 2019 Posts: 294

So I pulled the trans in the `70 bus tonight and had an interesting discovery. Looks like a 6 rib trans.

I know these were in 76-79 2.0 liter buses, This bus had would seems to be a nice, healthy stock looking dual port in it. Would this trans had to have been modified with a later bell housing, input shaft and nose cone? Everything seemed to work fine the once or twice I drove her around the block.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338

It looks like on early starter so it must be an early bellhousing, which will work with any Bay engine up through 1975., the input shaft appears like it is correct for a Type 1 engine as well. The transmission is leaking from the case to bellhousing seam, and maybe from the output shaft seals as well.

How does your shifter line up fore and aft? If the stick it too far rearward, now would be the time to correct the length of the shift rod.

tristanblue · Samba Member Joined: May 30, 2019 Posts: 294

We drove the bus twice, once when we bought and once at home. Nothing seemed strange with the shifter position. My dad drove it and he is an old school bus guy owned many, many.

I would think if someone went to the trouble of changing the bell housing and input shaft that the shifter would probably be taken care of as well but I could be wrong. How or what do I look for to see if the shiter has been modified or not already.

We do have a good `71 bus 3 rib trans here as well in same condition. Wondering if i should use this one or the correct 3 rib. I hear the gear ratio is quite high on these 6 ribs, Maybe I should yank the bell housing and check what ring and pinion are in this or is there a way (serial number) to check what this might have inside?

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338

tristanblue · Samba Member Joined: May 30, 2019 Posts: 294

How can I tell if nose cone is early?

Also problem is this bus COULD have a bigger engine but not sure. I bought it from a VW guy who bought it years ago from college kid who moved to Ann Arbor from New Orleans. The engine is a new case, dual port and is tight and looks done right though does have miles and dirty. Similar to the trans. I am guessing the drivetrain was completely redone at one time by somebody. Installing and doing the mods to a 6 rib would take someone with a bit of knowledge and access to some good spare parts.

I am really thinking about pulling the bell housing and checking the R-P to see what it is or if that has been moded as well.

While we are at it and everything is out...should I pull the shifter rod and parts and inspect? I hear the repop bushings are garbage and only to use them as a last resort.

Wildthings · Samba Member Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338

.
The appearance of the cone where the shaft seal mounts is different.

002 Transaxle

091 Transaxle

tristanblue · Samba Member Joined: May 30, 2019 Posts: 294

I realized the mount is completely different right after I asked. Yeah this has all early stuff on it.

tristanblue · Samba Member Joined: May 30, 2019 Posts: 294


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

	Forum Index -> Bay Window Bus	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page 1 of 1