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glb914
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2020 11:09 am    Post subject: Bent Valve Reply with quote

I’m a longtime owner of a 1972 914. Recently, I pulled the engine to address some oil leaks and clean it up. New pushrod tubes and seals and aluminum pushrods to replace the steel ones. Everything back together and engine installed, went for a test drive, got a backfire at high rpm, not over revved. Carbs were syncronized when I started it before driving but now getting no reading on snail gauge from number three cylinder. Compression test, no compression. Pulled valve cover and the adjusting nut and valve keeper and one elephant foot were rattling around inside. I dropped the engine and pulled the head to find the exaust valve was bent and had put a small dent in the piston. The elephant foot was from the intake valve which was fine but the rocker arm was totally loose. I can’t figure out what caused this as it would help me to determine my next step.

The engine is a type 4 which started as a 1.7. In the early 70’s I had it modified with NPR 96mm P&C and 74mm stroker crank with Weber 44idfs. Valve sizes remained the same at 39 x 33. The NPR set was slip in and was installed without head gaskets, so cylinder surface to head is very small which caused them to slightly dig into the heads to seal. Aproximately 20,000 miles on the engine now.

So, here’s the dilemma. Many new choices for heads with many valve combinations, but only for 1.8 or 2.0 which would mean new P&C also. Or have my heads rebuilt with larger valves and keep my P&C (cheapest option).

Anyone have an idea of what went wrong? The valve adjusting nut not tightened, or weak valve spring, or lighter pushrods, bad timing, what about the broken elephant foot on the intake valve, or…

Thanks for any help or advice.
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Ohio Tom
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2020 1:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

I have had similar happen.
the adjuster gets loose, or something falls apart. The pushrod falls out, but not all the way.
for one or 2 cycles, the pushrod rides on a high spot on the rocker and over lifts the valve once or twice causing collision with the piston.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2020 2:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

Ohio Tom wrote:
I have had similar happen.
the adjuster gets loose, or something falls apart. The pushrod falls out, but not all the way.
for one or 2 cycles, the pushrod rides on a high spot on the rocker and over lifts the valve once or twice causing collision with the piston.


Yep.....think you nailed it.

But why did this happen?.....

Well......So when you went to a stroker crank...and probably new cam.....and different cylinder/piston height withoit shim and head hasket.....what did you do to rectify the valve/pushrod geometry?

I can guarantee you that with those changes.....the stock pushrods would not be correct and shims would not be ideal.....because....type 4 rockers are already 1.25 and 1.3:1 ratio (IIRC).....and this creates angle issues with the pushrod tips in the rocker arm cup....when valve geometry is too far out.

And......its almost a MUST that unless your geometry is perfect on a type 4 engine.....you shoule be using solid rocker spacers.

What happens.....like Ohio Tom laid out...... is that if your geometry is off and your pushrod angle is overly acute.......and after a little pushrod tip wear.... if the rocker shifts sideways on ots shaft......the pushrod falls out of the cup for a split second.....you bend a valve ....and it pops back in on the next stroke.

Likewise....another possible problem......is if you used aftermarket pushrods.....that are aluminum.....but not as thick as type 4 PRs...and/or do not have the same ball radius.....I have sen this very problem happen. If so either way.....you will probably find one bent pushrod.
Ray
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Wreck
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2020 3:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

could it be also caused by valve float , if you have a weak spring ? the pushrod riding up on the cup of the rocker arm . A long shot because you didn't have any issues with the steel pushrods . just throwing ideas out there.
I take it the pushrods were made the same length ?

whether you just replace the valve ,get a valve grind etc (cheapest option ) or get bigger valves and the heads slightly ported to match . Or just get a new set of heads from AA .
On a performance level the best choice would be their 2lt 914 heads with valves size to suit your cam/RPM choice . problems are ,you could most likely get spacers made to locate the 1700 size cylinders and you would also have to drill the cylinder tin for the different spark plug location .

If you don't want to drill the tin for new spark plug locations then the type 4 round port heads will work well .

double check that your 1700 heads haven't been opened up to suit 1800/2000 cylinders already . Slip in may have meant in the case .

all depends on budget .
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glb914
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2020 5:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

Yes, pushrods were the same length as original ones (not original to 1.7 but sized for the cam and stroker). 20,000 miles no problems. Engine was professional build but 70’s technology. Shims between cylinder and case to compensate for stroker crank. I’m thinking either a weak spring or I didn’t tighten the adjusting nut enough. The top of the keeper has a pretty deep divot on one side and it popped off the valve so both rockers were flopping around in there, slight hole in the valve cover. Spring wasn’t broken.

Kind of thinking 1.8 heads with 44mm x 36mm and Keith Black 96mm P&C, just wish I knew what went wrong so it doesn’t happen with the new parts.

Anyone know a good machine shop for aircooled heads near Cleveland Ohio?
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2020 5:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

glb914 wrote:
Yes, pushrods were the same length as original ones (not original to 1.7 but sized for the cam and stroker). 20,000 miles no problems. Engine was professional build but 70’s technology. Shims between cylinder and case to compensate for stroker crank. I’m thinking either a weak spring or I didn’t tighten the adjusting nut enough. The top of the keeper has a pretty deep divot on one side and it popped off the valve so both rockers were flopping around in there, slight hole in the valve cover. Spring wasn’t broken.

Kind of thinking 1.8 heads with 44mm x 36mm and Keith Black 96mm P&C, just wish I knew what went wrong so it doesn’t happen with the new parts.

Anyone know a good machine shop for aircooled heads near Cleveland Ohio?


The PR's were the same length as stock....but not original?........whose pushrods did you use and what were they made of?

I find it hard to believe you could have anywhere near correct geometry....with that many parts changed....with stock length.

Ray
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glb914
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2020 6:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

No, not the same length as original 1.7 pushrod but same length as pushrods which were sized for the modified engine, 2143cc. Just wanted to replace the steel with aluminum to quiet it down a little.
No, original equipment length would be way too short.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2020 9:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

glb914 wrote:
No, not the same length as original 1.7 pushrod but same length as pushrods which were sized for the modified engine, 2143cc. Just wanted to replace the steel with aluminum to quiet it down a little.
No, original equipment length would be way too short.


Yep...got that now.

But...the original pushrods were ALUMINUM....should have been about 11.5 to 12mm in diameter.

If they were in some way "steel"....those were never original equipment on the 1.7L.

The only type 4 engines that came with steel pushrods were late model bus engines with hydraulic lifters.

But if they were steel....which is a normal upgrade to type 4...because the chromoly PR;s are actually smaller and lighter than the stock aluminum and stiffer.....that would have been good.

Unless you used some HIGH end aluminum aftermarket pushrods......chances are they were bending/flexing. I have had it happen in one type 4 engine....and that was just slightly hotter than stock. I bent two valves when teh PR's flexed and popped out of the socket.

The issue is cross section....OD versus ID and aluminum type. Along with the geometry ......there are enough differences that the factory used fat pushrods on the type 4 instead of just using type 1 pushrods.

Yes...it could have been an adjusting screw that came loose and backed out. It could have been a handful of things. It could also have been the pushrods.

Who built it? There are only a handful of shops in the country I would trust with type 4. Ray

Yes...could be several things caused this
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2020 6:45 am    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

I had this when I was stupid enough to use stock wavy washers and clips to hold the rockers in place with elephants feet. The whole thing fell off the valve tip with the engine at full power climbing a hill around 55mph , chewed the valve tip slightly and wrecked the adjuster, made the engine backfire, shook the 4 dowel flywheel loose.

Went over to solid rockers, but in the end that valve gave way.
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udidwht
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 12:26 am    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

Very well could be an adjuster screw not snugged down during valve lash check also. Or a less than stellar elephant foot (quality wise).
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 7:21 am    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

udidwht wrote:
Very well could be an adjuster screw not snugged down during valve lash check also. Or a less than stellar elephant foot (quality wise).



Yes....."possible".....but understand. Its type 4.

The only difference that fact makes.....is that I know for a fact.....that in order for ANY of the brands of swivel feet from cheezy half ball, to Fird/Mazda to actual Porsche or Mahle/Wizeman product......on a type 4......it would have to back out so far in order to let the pushrod ball tip escape the rocker arm cup......that it literally would have been beating on the valve cover for hours if not days.....and can/will eventually tear a hole in it.

A more "possible" version of what could have happened.....excessive valve lash clearance theory wise......would be a rocker stud nut coming off.

Yes....the effect of either of these factors can be "multiplied" if stock springs are used between the rockers instead of solid spacers.

Also.....another TWO problems that are the greatest multipliers of unwanted/unplanned....valve lash gap.......causing a pushrod to fall out of the cup on a type 4 engine.....remembering that it also should have pushrod tube retaining wires in place that actually help prevent this a little............are......

1. Using the wrong pushrods. The type 4 pushrods have a different shape/radius than common aftermarket type 1. And.....this is not usually a big issue.....unless.....

2. The cam is very high lift....and along with the greater than 1:1 factory rocker ratio.....the PR angle becomes to acute. The PR can pop right out of the rocker arm socket.

With the two problems listed above....some of the "little" problems listed previously by everyone here......any excessive lash and/or the lack of solid spacers between rocker arms......can cause enough axial and lateral shift to allow the PR to pop out.

So my question....still......is what pushrods were being used.....and .....what cam?

And a follow up question......did you have solid rocker spacers? Going without solid spacers on anything greater than a stock engine with a type 4.....is kind of a no-no. Even late model stock hydraulics got solid spacdrs to cut down on lateral rocker movement.

So.....my point being......I don't think the OP is .... YET.....at the stage of deciding what heads he wants to move on to........until he figures out WHY this happened.

Its far too easy to do the same thing again. Ray
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glb914
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 1:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

ACN Heavy Duty Aluminum Pushrods, .410 lift cam, stock spacers, elephant feet adjusters from ACN (USA), Rocker studs were tight.
Nut came off exhaust valve, elephant foot off intake valve. Valve cover damaged inside).
Only time of running engine was to sync carbs and 2 mile test drive. I think I may not have tightened the adjusting nut enough.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 2:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

glb914 wrote:
ACN Heavy Duty Aluminum Pushrods, .410 lift cam, stock spacers, elephant feet adjusters from ACN (USA), Rocker studs were tight.
Nut came off exhaust valve, elephant foot off intake valve. Valve cover damaged inside).
Only time of running engine was to sync carbs and 2 mile test drive. I think I may not have tightened the adjusting nut enough.



Ok...thanks!

So which valve adjuster screws from ACN did you use

These?.....

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Porsche-Valve-Adjusting-Screw-Each-901-105-370-02-p/901-105-370-02.htm

Or these?

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/SCAT-Swivel-Ball-Style-Valve-Adjusters-20118-p/20118.htm

I am still not 100% sure which pushrods you used from ACN....as I have not found ANY on the site that are .410" and all of both the chromoly and aluminum are 3/8".

Anyway.....yep....you may be hitting it n the head that an adjuster nut simply came loose or you forgot to tighten....because that IS the characteristic.....it can back out pretty quick...like in minutes. In fact....its actually quicker at lower rpm than running rpm.

But it beats up the inside of the valve cover.

And....if you used teh second style of "elephant feet"....the ball type...those are actually notorious for causing this problem when a ball gets flips while adjusting.

It causes you to adjust with the adjusting screw some .065"+ outward which beats on teh valve cover....and it will either shatter the adjusting screw cup or the ball will flip and now you have like .065" to .080" lash....and the PR falls out.

Ray
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 3:45 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

.410 lift cam.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/ACN-Heavy-Duty-Alumin...p;CartID=0

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Elephant-s-Feet-Valve-Adjusters-8-p/adj-elephants-ft-8.htm

Very high quality pushrods, not damaged at all.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 6:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

glb914 wrote:
.410 lift cam.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/ACN-Heavy-Duty-Alumin...p;CartID=0

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Elephant-s-Feet-Valve-Adjusters-8-p/adj-elephants-ft-8.htm

Very high quality pushrods, not damaged at all.



Laughing ...sorry...reading without my glasses....missed the punctuation!

Also...are those the exact pushrods you used? I think those are type 1 and 3.

The type 4 pushrods of the same quality (which I agree are very high quality)....are these

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/ACN-HD-Aluminum-Pushr...-solid.htm

The type 4 has a slightly different ball profile. As I noted....on low or stock lift, the difference is not a big deal....but it can cause issues.

The Mantons they sell at AC.net....will fit either type 1 or type 4.

So before you get too deep into a new engine....take close look at the pushrod tips.

The type 4 tips have a longer nose and angled flanks because the stock type 4 rockers have a higher ratio and therefore rotational angle than stock type 1. The type 1 tips are more hemispherical with straight shank sides.

Aftermarket tips for both type 1 and 4 ...which you may have......have a full "ball" type radius because its likely that non-stock builds use a higher rocker ratio as well.


And yes...good adjusting screws!
Ray
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txoval
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 7:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

Those are CB style elephant feet adjusters, $39 for 8.

The authentic Porsche are about $30 each x 8

There is a difference in quality
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 9:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

txoval wrote:
Those are CB style elephant feet adjusters, $39 for 8.

The authentic Porsche are about $30 each x 8

There is a difference in quality



Yes...totally agree!

However...unless you see a break through in the cup or a ball snapped off (which is part of the difference in quality).....I don't think the quality level of the adjusters is the problem with this one.

Ray
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 10:58 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

I’ve over 25,000km on those ACN pushrods with cams of similar or slightly more lift , so far no issues with adverse wear of the rocker cups .

It may be a simple thing of not tweaking the lock nut tight enough . Easy to do , recently I didn’t tighten an inner nut properly , no idea I why I missed it ,on #1 rocker shaft and caused some adverse wear on the intake valve stem and adjuster . These things happen .
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 11, 2020 11:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

Wreck wrote:
I’ve over 25,000km on those ACN pushrods with cams of similar or slightly more lift , so far no issues with adverse wear of the rocker cups .

It may be a simple thing of not tweaking the lock nut tight enough . Easy to do , recently I didn’t tighten an inner nut properly , no idea I why I missed it ,on #1 rocker shaft and caused some adverse wear on the intake valve stem and adjuster . These things happen .


Yep...agree. I think this is probably what happened.

However...its not the quality or strength of ACN's pushrods I am asking about. Its whether the correct ones were used.

There is a difference in regular type 1 pushrod tips and type 4. However...if they are the ball type....it should fit either type 1 or 4 based engines.

Ray
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 12, 2020 1:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Bent Valve Reply with quote

Pushrod photos

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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