Power Window Switch issue

[mrbawkbachgawk]

I've had issues in the past with the passenger window getting stuck in the down position. I noticed water leaked through the switches at one point and I lost the switch lights on all of them. I just replaced 2 switches with new, the passenger switch and the driver's side passenger switch.

A few days ago when I finished installing the passenger window went down slowly and barley went back up. At that time all switches lit up. Today I tried again and the window did not move at all at first, I noticed the driver's side light did not turn on, however it moved driver's window just fine. After a minute or so the light turned on and I tried the passenger window again, it moved really slow and I was barley able to bring it back up. When I was bringing it up, I noticed that the passenger's side switch light was flickering as if it wasn't getting enough power.

With all that said, I'm wondering if it's worth replacing the last switch as perhaps this is the cause within the entire series of switches? Maybe I am overlooking something, maybe a ground wire is loose or something? Any thoughts would be highly appreciated. Thanks!

[kguarnotta]

I'm not sure about these- but have you taken the mechanism apart to lubricate the regulator?

I just redid the drivers side of mine. When researching issues about my window, I stated reading about power windows. I think this issue could burn out motors or switches?
_________________
-Kevin
Lincoln, MA

'86 Triple Knob Syncro w/EJ22
'78 Westy
'69 Single Cab
'65 Kombi - EZ-Camper

[Steve M.]

How are the window seals along the bottom of the window?

"Corrosion X" is a good "sealing" spray that will fill/cover to protect electrical boards or terminals.
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[mrbawkbachgawk]

Thanks Kevin. I have yet to lubricate the regulator. When this issue happened the first time the window went up easily and quick once the switch was given power. I replaced the switch and it worked for a while and then only worked when pressing both the driver's side passenger switch and the passenger switch at the same time. That worked for about a month and then got slow and just stopped. I'm wondering if it's a wiring issue because of this, I feel that because the switch light was flickering it may be lacking power? Perhaps it is struggling because of the regulator though?

[mrbawkbachgawk]

Thanks Steve, I imagine because I've literally seen water leaking through my switches that it's not great. I think once I get the windows working properly that applying the Corrosion X would help. Thanks for the suggestion.

[kguarnotta]

Do you still have the plastic door liner in place? I believe that is supposed to run behind switches to keep water out.
_________________
-Kevin
Lincoln, MA

'86 Triple Knob Syncro w/EJ22
'78 Westy
'69 Single Cab
'65 Kombi - EZ-Camper

[mrbawkbachgawk]

[0to60in6min]

lubricate the mechanism, spray some silicone lubricant on the side felts, check the switch connectors may help.

[Syncronoid]

Move switches to the dash, that's what I did. Original switches are terrible, for many reasons.

https://www.gowesty.com/product/cup-holders/4456/power-window-switch-relocation-kit-
_________________
'90 Syncro Westy w/GW2.5L

[mrbawkbachgawk]

[dabaron]

there are 4 sets of connectors between the driver's side and the passenger's side window switch. if you measure the voltage on the yellow or yellow/black at the passenger side switch, i bet it's below 10 volts. you are seeing the effects of voltage drops.

i disassembled the connectors and used 320 grit to clean the corrosion off. once i verified the correct operation of the windows, i used a dielectric grease on the connectors in the doors.
_________________
1991 Vanagon GL Camper
i had no idea i wanted to be a mechanic
"burnin oil and cookin coils" -- Destructo

BiWerks Design, LLC

[DanHoug]

[mrbawkbachgawk]

[16CVs]

Take your original switches and flush them out with WD40 and try them again. As repeated numerous times in the many window threads that come up.
Start by putting power power directly to the motor at the door panel. The work backwards from there.
Before adding switches to the dash double up some Masking tape and stick it to the dash where you would put the switch and see what a pain it is to reach them from a comfortable driving position.
These windows need maintenance like any other system of your van, with a little patience the factory system works great.
I have new harnesses if you need them.

Stacy
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Triple knob (bastard)
1989 Syncro Tristar Triple knob "Swedish"
2013 Jetta Hybrid a true "Zwitter"
Samba member # 14980
Call anytime number 650 722 4914 .
Keep Your van running and upkept tastefully for the love of the hobby.
Don't let your van end up in an "abortions" thread.

[DuncanS]

[syncro surf]

[dobryan]

Thank you for the link to that replacement switch. Just what I needed!
_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[DuncanS]

S Surf--Sorry, but something wacky is going on with my ability to upload photos to the gallery. Upgraded my Mac OS and now it doesn't like it. Will sort it out and post ASAP.

In the meantime, here is what I did. Three relays per side in the door.

The relays don't have to be in the door. I just happened to have the space and so that's where they went partially because the motor plugs are in the door and it made connections simpler. PS is where the speaker used to be which was relocated for a different reason, but the DS has them at the bottom of the door.

Relay 1 turns power on sending it to the other two relays, but does not activate them. The power passes through the normally closed contacts. The diode blocks power to those relay coils. With the switch in the other position power passes through the diode and activates not only relay 1, the power relay, but the other two as well thus reversing polarity.

The switches. Any SPDT center off momentary will do as the loads are only the relay coils which are low. I used the OG window switches, but in a different form. I used the brown ground wire as the supply. I forget which were the other ones, but using a multimeter to test for continuity can easily show you which to use. I do know that the red wires are normally hot all the time and so they can't be used as they are without clipping the connection between them as they are soldered onto two terminals. As someone already said there are four connectors between the two doors for the pair that runs across. I elected to run entirely new wires with no connectors at all. Connectors may simplify assembly with different parts of the factory harnesses when the car is building built, but that was 31 years ago and no longer a requirement. Directly from the switch plugs on one side to the switch plugs on the other. For window power, I ran new 12 gauge stranded marine wire with each strand tinned before assembly for both the positive and ground. This is the best wire you can get and has far better insulation than regular auto or house wire. I didn't want to rely on the door hinges to provide continuity and I wanted heavy duty current capability.

Duncan

[DuncanS]

I wrote this assuming the diagram would accompany the text.

Diode--A diode of min values of 12v and 1 amp is connected across the output of the switches. I used solar blocking diodes which are cheap and can handle the loads. This allows the switch to send power either to just the power relay 1 blocking the cross connection to keep it from going down the other leg. When pushed the other way, the power can go to all three relays. So in the normally closed positions of relays 2 and 3, the positive goes to one leg of the window motor and the negative/ground goes to the other. When the diode allows all three relays to be activated, relays 2 and 3 trip and reverse the polarity to the motor and thus it's direction. The leads from the switch go separately to relay 1 and the other to 2 and 3.

Hope this is clear enough for you to figure out. Will post the diagram as soon as I can.

[ZsZ]