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tidybol
Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2020
Posts: 62
Location: CA
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 Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2020 6:36 pm Post subject: Engine break-in |
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I asked this question in the early bug thread but was recommended to ask it here:
Just about to start up my 1600 DP and I was wanting some additional advice. For the most part I'm following the break-in procedure from https://www.aircooled.net/vw-engine-break-in-procedure/
After cam break-in(I'll change the oil and adjust the valves cold after) I'm not sure if I should go straight to piston ring break-in or drive it around normal for a 100 miles? I also have a hilly area right next to me for piston ring break-in or I'm wondering if I should tow it to a flat and level road so I can do a couple full throttle pulls to seat the rings?
I'm also wondering if there's a way to statically adjust timing with my Pertronix distributor(SVDA Flamethrower model) before initial start up?
My specs as follows:
1600 dp
CB cheater cam
Valves set to .006 IN and EX
Pertronix flamethrower distibutor
Bosch coil
Pict34 carb
Bugpack exhaust
Maxima 10w30 break-in zinc oil
No thermostat
Stock oil screen |
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UK Luke 72
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Joined: September 07, 2011
Posts: 2867
Location: Little Britain
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bsairhead
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2008
Posts: 3560
Location: viroqua wi.
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| Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 4:58 am Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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| As far as static time, I would eye ball your rotor as to point to your #1 cap wire. Exact timing on a engine with no load is not so critical. When it fires up go to your 2000 rpm mark let warm up. 5 minutes would be enough then go to 3500 rpm or all advance in to set your timing, 28-30 degrees btdc. Go back to 2000 rpm for the rest of your break in, 20 minutes total. Cool over night check valve clearance. Fire up varying rpm,s. Throttle on uphill throttle off downhill. I think 20 minutes is enough. Check timing and carb adjustments while hot. Change oil done. |
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Ohio Tom
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Joined: February 09, 2006
Posts: 1660
Location: Marshallville Ohio
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| Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 6:42 am Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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After cam break-in, just run/drive it..
DRag motors get broken in at the race track at 7,500rpm... |
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tidybol
Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2020
Posts: 62
Location: CA
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| Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 6:07 pm Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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| Ok I think I'm going to keep the mineral oil in it until after the piston rings are broken in and then drop the oil. |
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vwracerdave
Samba Member
Joined: November 11, 2004
Posts: 15303
Location: Deep in the 405
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| Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 6:53 pm Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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After the 20-25 minute cam break in you need to change the oil and adjust the valves. You would not believe how dirty the oil is and how much junk is inside a new engine no matter how much you clean everything before assemble. After the break-in you must allow the engine to cool 10-12 hrs to normalize. This is also an important part of the initial break in that very few people mention. After 300 miles change oil & adjust valves, and again at 1000.
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2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63
Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos |
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Glenn 
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 76902
Location: Sneaking up behind you
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| Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2020 6:55 pm Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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Dave,
I do (2) 20 minute cam breakins along with oil change and valve adjust after each.
Then drive it like you stole it.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
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tidybol
Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2020
Posts: 62
Location: CA
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| Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2020 3:01 pm Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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| vwracerdave wrote: |
| After the 20-25 minute cam break in you need to change the oil and adjust the valves. You would not believe how dirty the oil is and how much junk is inside a new engine no matter how much you clean everything before assemble. After the break-in you must allow the engine to cool 10-12 hrs to normalize. This is also an important part of the initial break in that very few people mention. After 300 miles change oil & adjust valves, and again at 1000. |
Can I add regular oil instead of break-in mineral oil for the piston ring break-in and 300 miles after? |
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vwracerdave
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Joined: November 11, 2004
Posts: 15303
Location: Deep in the 405
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| Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2020 3:06 pm Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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yes
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2017 Street Comp Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble, OK
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63
Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos |
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Glenn
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 76902
Location: Sneaking up behind you
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tidybol
Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2020
Posts: 62
Location: CA
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2020 1:12 pm Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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| ok thanks guys |
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mikedjames
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Joined: July 02, 2012
Posts: 2736
Location: Hamble, Hampshire, UK
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2020 2:18 pm Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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For static timing the Ignitor II type adaptive dwell units, it is quite tricky.
What you have to do is move the distributor back and forwards rapidly with the engine set at 8 degrees BTDC, with a 12 volt light connected to the black wire on the distributor, and the ignition feed on the coil.
Eventually you will get an idea of where the points 'open' and that is where you set the distributor.
Better still, to complete break in without possibly failing to start, or running too slow initially, swap to points and condenser for the break in and go back to the electronic unit when it has completed the cam break in.
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Ancient vehicles and vessels
1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.
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74 Thing
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Posts: 7390
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2020 2:46 pm Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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| It is good to change the oil and filter (if you have one) a few times in the first few hundred miles to get all the crap out of the engine. It is cheap insurance. |
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tidybol
Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2020
Posts: 62
Location: CA
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2020 6:50 pm Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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| mikedjames wrote: |
For static timing the Ignitor II type adaptive dwell units, it is quite tricky.
What you have to do is move the distributor back and forwards rapidly with the engine set at 8 degrees BTDC, with a 12 volt light connected to the black wire on the distributor, and the ignition feed on the coil.
Eventually you will get an idea of where the points 'open' and that is where you set the distributor.
Better still, to complete break in without possibly failing to start, or running too slow initially, swap to points and condenser for the break in and go back to the electronic unit when it has completed the cam break in. |
We've considered this since we have the old distributor (009) with points but it will also need adjustment before starting. I found this video(by accident actually) and she happens to have the same distributor we have. I'm pretty confident we can get the Pertronix close enough to get it started. For my set up, I was going to go for 7.5 BTDC and 30-32 for full advance with the engine running at higher revs. I've also read that you need to be careful not to 'cook' the distributor by leaving the ignition on for more than 30 secs. I'm planning on leaving it on for about 10-15 seconds at a time to get the static timing on the mark.
https://youtu.be/h0v3uTfIW-g?t=1196 |
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rugblaster
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Joined: March 31, 2016
Posts: 1170
Location: San Angelo, Texas
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| Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2020 7:14 pm Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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These guys have killer break-in oil and a really good 5w40. They have it formulated to their specs. Probably the best race engine builder in the country, year in year out.
https://rehermorrison.com/
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volksworld
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Joined: November 26, 2011
Posts: 2529
Location: formerly NY currently NC
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| Posted: Fri Dec 18, 2020 7:46 am Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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| i always static time with a 009 to get the engine running...then after everythings done and carbs are adjusted switch to the electronic...on new engines with 2 out of the box carbs its just so much easier to know timings in the ballpark while you're trying to get the thing to run well enough to break in the cam |
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tidybol
Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2020
Posts: 62
Location: CA
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| Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2020 12:16 pm Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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| Break in went pretty well although the engine stalled a couple times. Dropped the oil and it was gray–mostly due to the white assembly grease I imagine. I set the valves to .004 IN and .006 EX (before they were .006 and .006). After the break in they were all within .001 and didn't change much from the original setting. However I'm still having some trouble gettin the timing right. Full advance it's about 30 degrees but at idle it's 12. It wants to stall if I retard it further at idle. I think most of these issues are carb related(Pict-34 Bocar) as it also hesitates if I stab the throttle at all instead of a steady increase. Thoughts? |
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UK Luke 72
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txoval
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Joined: January 23, 2004
Posts: 3552
Location: The Woodlands, TX
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| Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2020 12:40 pm Post subject: Re: Engine break-in |
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| Set it to 30* at 2800-3000 rpms and let the idle timing be what it is |
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tidybol
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