Looking for Syncro Plug

[pemz0r]

I have been searching for hours and I can't find the OEM plug that would hook into the decoupler switch. Does anyone have photos of the location of the switch?


Gowesty and Van Cafe both have this installation step..

"Hook Up Switch - The pigtail with the plug for the indicator light switch can be found in the large harness bundle along the frame behind the charcoal canister in the driver’s side wheel well. Remove the hose clamp holding the canister to view the area better. Pry out the large red tie wrap holding the harness bundle at the very front of the wheel well. - Find the plug to the fuel tank sender (plugged into the side of the fuel tank behind the spring tower), and follow the wire forward about a foot. Separate the individual harnesses until you find the one with two wires coming out of the 18-inch sheath: one brown and one brown with a black trace. - This one has a rubber hood for the plug on the end. You will have to clean it up and probably dig out the dirt with a wire and compressed air/water. Using a stiff sire and taping the harness plug to it, thread the wire through the frame opening, following the path taken by the fuel line going from the fuel pump to the fuel filter. Plug the harness into the electrical switch on the decoupler. Slide the rubber hood over the contacts."

Thank you.

[MarkWard]

Its buried. I came across mine testing the fuel tank sender. So, follow the fuel tank sender harness forward to the firewall. It's likely covered in dirt and is camouflaged. Sorry no picture.
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[Steve M.]

Look near side of the driver side of the fuel tank down below the sending unit and the filter area. Tucked up into area open spaces. More so at bottom of the tank where wire harnesses are.
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[Sodo]

Easter egg hunt on a Westy?
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'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb

[pemz0r]

I will keep searching... Thanks all

[0to60in6min]

Is this the one you are looking for? I am not sure it's for the decoupler or the diff locker... it's on the passenger side, behind the air filter box, tugged on top of the gas tank... yours may be moved around in that area.... or worse yet some one may cut it because they think it is redundant if that then look for a cut pair of wires (Blue/Red and Brown).

[pemz0r]

Finally Found it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It was buried, I mean burieddddd. It was sorta behind the charcoal canister. There was no way for me to try to route the wire back where it originated from so I had to cut the connector off and fish it the way I wanted via a electrical tape and a steel cable.

I twisted the wires together, pulled the the center knob and boom, the light lit up

I replaced the switch yesterday and it was working great. Pulled the knob and the sender would complete the circuit, via voltage meter. Now that I hooked up the spade connectors to the switch, doesn't close the circuit.. I will have to see what the issue might be, but I am rounding third and it's make me happy.

Next is to replace the switch for the rear locker.. but there's no way I am getting any tools or my hand up in there. Does this switch have to be changed out by dropping the trans?

[MarkWard]

The component needs to physically work for the light to come on. The dash switches only route vacuum. They are not electrical switches. Time to start looking at your vacuum servo motors. Also, it takes time for vacuum to recover when you have a hose off. The servos use vacuum to engage and disengage. A vacuum gauge is helpful and even better is a hand held vacuum pump.
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[pemz0r]

@mark, Correct.
The vacuum engages the decoupler and at the sometime it activates a pin inside the decoupler to trigger the switch. On the switch, there's one wire set to ground and other wire is sent to the light. When the pin engages the switch, the switch closes the circuit and the light should come on.

I had a friend pull in and out the switch inside the cabin so I could watch the pin move back and forth inside the decoupler, and it was working. I had the light working then it stopped, so I think I will need to adjust the switch distance closer to the activation pin, because the switch isn't closing the circuit. Might have to sand down the crush washer a bit to make good contact, but not to sand it down too much so that the switch stays on all the time.

Thanks again for your help!!

How about changing out the rear locker switch. Do you have to drop the trans to replace that one? There's no way for me to get my hands up in there.

[MarkWard]

Someone else is working on the rear locker light. He also thought he couldn't access the switch. I don't remember it being that difficult to access. I have access to a lift though.
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[0to60in6min]

Could it be the vacuum switch at the console has an internal leak?... meaning it delivers enough vacuum to engage the decoupler but not enough to activate the light switch?

[MarkWard]

If the decoupler or locker is engaged, the electrical switch is depressed and "closed". A vacuum leak would likely disable the complete system.
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[pemz0r]

I didn't do any adjustments to the sealing ring but the light comes on a few minutes later.

I took her out in the snow today.. and it blew my mind how well she climbed in deepish snow on a steepish incline.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CKaaZQalP0-/

[pemz0r]

I got both decoupler and rear locker lights to work!!!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CKkp2legMdT/


Removing the rear locker switch and replacing it with a new one was the biggest pain in the rear!! I had to remove the gear shifter, the vacuum mechanism and make a custom tool to fit around the switch because it was so tight to get my hands and any tool up in that area. Since I removed the gear shifter, I ended up purchasing the shifter system overhaul bundle from GW and restored the shifting components, sanding/painting/new grease.

Everything is working well. Very happy.

Now I am going to start collecting parts for a front locker..

[Steve M.]

Okay, glad you got it working.
Now go fix those wires you twisted together with a proper heat shrink with to keep your wires clean.

https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Qibaok-Electrica...&psc=1

Use a good type wire crimper for the butt connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/WGGE-Professional-crimping-...amp;sr=1-8
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This free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

There are seven days in a week. Someday is not one of them.

[Steve M.]

Note that it sometimes takes a few moments for the Rear Locker to engage or disengage due to the pressure on the ring and pinion gears.

If it seems like it is taking too long for the rear locker you can try weaving back and forth to get the rear tires to rotate at different speeds as opposed to them both rotating the same speed by going in a straight line.
_________________
This free advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

There are seven days in a week. Someday is not one of them.

[MarkWard]

[pemz0r]

@Steve, I already took care of the wires, thank you

@Markward, The VC was removed, and I have the stub.

[MarkWard]

Thanks.
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