Plan on cranking engine on ??? break-in oil question

[67 Sunroof]

So I am planning on running standard Brad Penn 10w30 on break-in.
I was at the auto parts store today and noticed the Lucas additive with zddp for older cars. Should I buy some to add on my break-in run?
There is SOOOO much info in the oil topic about additives, break-in oil, etc I’m completely confused at this point. I’m on the east coast and temps are around 50 degrees right now. Hmmm
Do I just “run what I brung” and break it in with the Penn 10w30?

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1776cc, CB crank, CB 2241 cam, CB light lifters, CB H-beam rods, CB light flywheel, Mahle forged pistons, A1 Sidewinder exhaust, Dellorto drla 40’s, Hoover modded case, fully balanced, fully flowed, heads by www.type-emotorsports.com, Air ride suspension by https://www.airkewld.com/?Click=3989

[Glenn]

I still have some of the GM EOS additive and add some for the initial breakin. But once i'm done with the cam, I drain the oil and just refill with nothing extra so the rings breakin.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

[txoval]

If you have Brad Penn Break-in oil, I would not add anything.

However, I have never seen 10W-30 Brad Penn “Break-in” oil. I have only seen/bought 30W Break-In oil

Brad Penn does sell 10W-30 oil, but it’s not break-in oil...

I could be wrong, but even in a google search only 30W Break-in oil appears

[Brian_e]

I have had really good luck with Amsoil straight 30wt break-in, and the provided cam paste. I used to use the Brad Penn break-in with no problems. I never added anything.

Brian
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www.type-emotorsports.com

[67 Sunroof]

I said BP 10w30 oil on break in.
NOT break in oil. It is just the standard oil which makes me think I may need to add something else upon break in.
I actually have a neighbor who is an amsoil rep. Maybe I should just go with the amsoil 30 break in oil for the first run of 20 min.?
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1776cc, CB crank, CB 2241 cam, CB light lifters, CB H-beam rods, CB light flywheel, Mahle forged pistons, A1 Sidewinder exhaust, Dellorto drla 40’s, Hoover modded case, fully balanced, fully flowed, heads by www.type-emotorsports.com, Air ride suspension by https://www.airkewld.com/?Click=3989

[txoval]

Oops, sorry. Obviously read that too fast.

I’d buy the Brad Penn Break-in oil and save regular for the next fill...

Damn, did it again...edit. Yes, if your neighbor can help with Amsoil Break-in, go that route

[Zundfolge1432]

I’ve used this

[67 Sunroof]

Ok shot him a text for 5 quarts then!
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1776cc, CB crank, CB 2241 cam, CB light lifters, CB H-beam rods, CB light flywheel, Mahle forged pistons, A1 Sidewinder exhaust, Dellorto drla 40’s, Hoover modded case, fully balanced, fully flowed, heads by www.type-emotorsports.com, Air ride suspension by https://www.airkewld.com/?Click=3989

[evanfrucht]

I'm honestly thinking of doing the same. I bought a full case of the normal 10w30 BP engine oil, so I figured I'd just use that but now I changed my mind and figure I may as well buy some break oil. I have enough invested might as well not risk botching the job over something silly.

Also, the oil changes never end... so the stuff I already have will get used eventually regardless.

Initially I was a little torn because I thought multi weight oil was superior in general but then someone brought up a good point about detergents. Got me thinking and reading about the fact that having friction modifiers and other additives can be bad for ring seating, etc.

That's just my thinking anyway. I'm no chemist.

BTW I just noticed Joe Gibbs and Motul both sell a few multi-weight break in oils for who ever that may interest.
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1967 Bug ( the daily rod )
1964 Fury Wagon ( the pavement shredder )

[King_vw61]

Test your LM-2 on something before you start your engine. I am having issues with it reading RPM.

It might of been the car I was working on but it would not read when set up like they say. I read several pages in the web saying the amp clamp has been an issue for them.
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1961 Ragtop, Autocraft 2783cc for street/strip 10k miles and counting...230.84 HP to the wheels thru Muffler 13.4 to 1 on E85
https://www.instagram.com/king_vw61/?hl=en

[67 Sunroof]

Awwww maaaaan! I’ll mess with it when I get home from work today. Thanks for the heads up!!!
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1776cc, CB crank, CB 2241 cam, CB light lifters, CB H-beam rods, CB light flywheel, Mahle forged pistons, A1 Sidewinder exhaust, Dellorto drla 40’s, Hoover modded case, fully balanced, fully flowed, heads by www.type-emotorsports.com, Air ride suspension by https://www.airkewld.com/?Click=3989

[c77owen]

Brad Penn (PennGrade) Oil requires no additional additive as it has 1500 PPM ZDDP. Their break in oil is SAE 30Wt. A good point was made by a rep from Penn Grade Hi Performance oil during a webinar that I sat in on: "If you have to buy additive for your oil, then you bought the wrong oil." Also, adding additives to oil can and does throw off the chemical structure of the other "packs" (detergent, friction modifiers, etc) that are engineered into said oil.

[mark tucker]

I would add some of the rislone zddp to the first oil.then none after. I have never used breakin oil. never will.I just use dino oil.lots of it. 4~5 oil& filter changes the first week to get all the cam lube filter cloging& any other dibris out.and not bypas the filter and fuck up the bearings by tring to save a few dollars on oil&filters.

[67 Sunroof]

[Frank Bassman]

I'm with Mark. Maybe add some zinc on the cam breakin and an extra quart to keep the cam submerged and lubricated at all times. Drain and forget about the zinc forever after.

Don't much care for brand, I have used wal mart oil before with the added zinc for the 15 min breakin, it goes bye bye after. Then I use a 15-40 diesel engine oil which shall remain nameless. Yes I am aware it does not have the zinc. Has been great to me.

Clean oil is the best oil. Change filter. Oil changed every 3 k miles. No black magic here.

Daily car. Kind of. Been driving the '73 Dart lately. It also uses the nameless diesel oil. Motorcraft filter for a Ford. Great stuff. I'm no purist.

Maybe those who run insane spring pressures have had issues, I hever have with my normal springs and stockish cams.


I am surprised this isn't locked yet.

-Frank

[67 Sunroof]

Well, we shall leave it at this (in before the lock😂)
I purchased the Amsoil 30wt break in oil and plan on running it 20 minutes at 2,000 rpm’s. Dump that high dollar oil. Let it cool. Do my valves and fill it up with the Brad Penn oil.
We shall see!!
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1776cc, CB crank, CB 2241 cam, CB light lifters, CB H-beam rods, CB light flywheel, Mahle forged pistons, A1 Sidewinder exhaust, Dellorto drla 40’s, Hoover modded case, fully balanced, fully flowed, heads by www.type-emotorsports.com, Air ride suspension by https://www.airkewld.com/?Click=3989

[FreeBug]

I wish I could buy any of the stuff you're mentioning locally...-sigh-

[Tobias Bylund]

@FreeBug; i am in the same situation that you are, i dont have many options available locally in Sweden, but i found ato24.de, they have a huge selection of oil, i bought my Amsoil break in oil from them at a very reasonably cost/quart. and shipping charges were reasonable as well. Just a tip.

[clonebug]

Summit Racing has Penn Grade and shipping is reasonable and fast.
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[Tobias Bylund]

For us poor europeans shipping from US is unfortunately not really an option, i would think 100-120 USD for shipping a box of 12qts to Sweden.

I am very envious of your selection of oils, i dont know how many hours i have scoured the web to try to find good, but still reasonably priced oil here....

I can get Brad Penn here in most viscosities, but they are about 25USD/qt, and with dry sump running 8-10qts it adds up fast