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Doktor Brezel
Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2004
Posts: 53
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 Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2021 5:49 am Post subject: Removing alu dash board trim |
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Hi all,
Since you can only ruin the dash trim (of a split that isn't even mine) once, i figured It'd be better to ask my questions to the experts first.
Are the tabs of the alu dash trim prone to cracking (because of work hardening) when bending the tabs open?
If so... Do you need to anneal the tabs before bending them open? How did you do it? Would it be possible to use a soldering iron for the annealing? (has anyone ever tried it?)
Thanks in advance! 
_________________
Jan '51 Split // 11C // Medium Brown |
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ZENVWDRIVER
Samba Member
Joined: November 07, 2008
Posts: 3340
Location: N.E. Oklahoma
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| Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2021 9:20 am Post subject: Re: Removing alu dash board trim |
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that's A L U M I N U M...
_________________
5/50, pastel green 11G - SOLD
8/50, gray 11A Beetle
6/52, pastel green 11C - SOLD
11/4/52, black Zwitter - SOLD to my little bro.
1954 Porsche, pre A, with VW 36 horse- SOLD
1/54, black 11C Beetle - TRADED
2/55 Iceland green Beetle, on a 1965 pan
3/55 113 Beetle, stratos silver
1955 Messerschmitt KR175 - SOLD, sadly
1960 single cab
1962 SO33, with SO 42 interior
9/63 Pacific blue, Ghia
'87 Toyota MR2
'02 WestFORDia E-150, GAVE TO OUR SON
All super-heroes, wear a MASK |
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KTPhil 
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006
Posts: 34002
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2021 10:25 am Post subject: Re: Removing alu dash board trim |
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Or is it A L U M I N I U M ?
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Martin Southwell
Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2010
Posts: 984
Location: Bath, England
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| Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2021 10:26 am Post subject: Re: Removing alu dash board trim |
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I'm not surprised that nobody has attempted to answer this question. Putting on my old aircraft engineer's hat, I can tell you that this is a mighty complex subject, with some of it sounding like undertaking practical witchcraft. For example, see this link:
https://www.tinmantech.com/education/articles/aluminum-alloys-annealing.php
Thre is no simple answer, but I can assure you that a normal soldering iron isn't going to provide the level of heat required to anneal or work harden any aluminum alloy that I'm aware of.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Work_hardening |
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Hacksaw-BoB
Samba Member
Joined: March 12, 2009
Posts: 778
Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2021 3:03 pm Post subject: Re: Removing alu dash board trim |
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Or is it M U N I M U L A (spelled backwards) 
_________________
Hacksaw BoB 
http://www.VintageVolkswagenModels.com
Collector of Vintage VW Toys
BoB's Restor-Version Shop |
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FarmerBill
Samba Member
Joined: July 25, 2017
Posts: 766
Location: New England
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| Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2021 4:34 pm Post subject: Re: Removing alu dash board trim |
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Annealing aluminum takes about 550F and 750F depending on the alloy. Some alloys never seem to soften though. A good soldering iron will get you to 900-1000F. The problem is if you try to heat just one portion of an aluminum part the rest of the part that you are not heating will be pulling the heat away. Because of this it may be difficult to get the area you want to soften up to the temp you need.
Maybe you could carefully remove the trim and anneal it before you reinstall? I don't know. |
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Doktor Brezel
Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2004
Posts: 53
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| Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2021 5:02 am Post subject: Re: Removing alu dash board trim |
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| ZENVWDRIVER wrote: |
| that's A L U M I N U M... |
| KTPhil wrote: |
Or is it A L U M I N I U M ?
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To avoid rubbing people the wrong way I decided to just omit the controversial bit and call it alu, but everybody knows the correct spelling is aluminium of course!
| Martin Southwell wrote: |
| I'm not surprised that nobody has attempted to answer this question. Putting on my old aircraft engineer's hat, I can tell you that this is a mighty complex subject, with some of it sounding like undertaking practical witchcraft. |
I come from an engineering background as well, so I'm familiar with basic metallurgy. I decided to post my question here to gather more "real life" experiences from other people. I'd rather hear about someone elses failures than experience them myself. If the tabs aren't very prone to breaking than it isn't worth the hassle trying to anneal them.
| Martin Southwell wrote: |
| There is no simple answer, but I can assure you that a normal soldering iron isn't going to provide the level of heat required to anneal or work harden any aluminum alloy that I'm aware of. |
Too be honest. I did not think it would work either. Firstly because of the output power of such and iron and secondly because of the contact resistance of the iron. There's always an air gap that decreases heat transfer between the iron and the aluminium.
But...
I am pleased to tell that all dashboard trim came out without any snapped tabs. Because at first no one replied I decided to better be safe than sorry and bought myself a little butane torch lighter (or cigar lighter). Those little things create a surprising amount of heat.
I tried to use the old coachbuilder/panel beater trick of covering the alu with soot with a candle. When the soot disappears during the heating the alu has reached a high enough temperature. But that didn't really work that well.
I ended up just 'guesstimating' the amount of heat required. At first I was a bit careful, but the entire dash is quite a heat sink so it could take more heat than I thought. After the "heat treatment" I used a big flat screwdriver as an anvil to push against the back of the tab (to roll the tab onto when prying it open) and a little screwdriver to pry the tab open.
Mission accomplished, without snapping a tab, but I can't tell you whether that's because of or in spite of the heating.
_________________
Jan '51 Split // 11C // Medium Brown |
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ZENVWDRIVER
Samba Member
Joined: November 07, 2008
Posts: 3340
Location: N.E. Oklahoma
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| Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2021 9:50 am Post subject: Re: Removing alu dash board trim |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
Or is it A L U M I N I U M ?
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Aluminum is the American and Canadian spelling for the silver-white metallic element (number 13 on the periodic table) abundant in the earth’s crust
. Aluminium is the preferred spelling outside North America. Neither term is superior to the other, and both are etymologically and logically justifiable.
I learn the darndist things on thesamba
Also learned, back in the'70s, to just leave that deluxe-pod trim alone and in place - I have just painted the dashes and taped the trim - if never removed - it is no issue - glad it all worked-out for you - z
_________________
5/50, pastel green 11G - SOLD
8/50, gray 11A Beetle
6/52, pastel green 11C - SOLD
11/4/52, black Zwitter - SOLD to my little bro.
1954 Porsche, pre A, with VW 36 horse- SOLD
1/54, black 11C Beetle - TRADED
2/55 Iceland green Beetle, on a 1965 pan
3/55 113 Beetle, stratos silver
1955 Messerschmitt KR175 - SOLD, sadly
1960 single cab
1962 SO33, with SO 42 interior
9/63 Pacific blue, Ghia
'87 Toyota MR2
'02 WestFORDia E-150, GAVE TO OUR SON
All super-heroes, wear a MASK |
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| Back to top |
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