Should I replace a full flow filter/pump for a regular oil pump?

[NRAgunnut1993]

Howdy y’all! I purchased a 1966 Beetle with a 1300cc engine about 3 months ago. Not long after I bought it I did the first oil change I noticed it had an EMPI Full Flow Filter Oil Pump (of course it’s aftermarket). I had heard from a video on YouTube they don’t do that good of a job filtering the oil and it’s not recommended to use em. I found an EMPI oil pump on Jbugs (witch I will link) that’s saids it will work on my engine and even looks like it’ll be easy to install.

My question is, should i replace the full flow filter/pump during my next oil change? Or since it’s already there should I just leave it?

Here is the link: https://www.jbugs.com/product/31-2935.html?rrec=true

[Cusser]

I have oil pump/filter units on both my VWs, one for 4 decades now, the other for 4 years, and I like them a ton.

Mine are from CB Performance, but if I were you, I'd stay with what you already have.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Eric&Barb]

CB Maxi 2 oil filter pumps are the best aftermarket one made today. Only possible better one is the made in Mexico VW factory one, which was stock for the VWs made there.

The EMPI version is not quality, so if you come across one of the above varieties for a good price you might consider upgrading. Just make sure if you go that way you get one that will work with the cam you have.

Oil filter pumps are a must for the bearings to keep crud especially metal in the oil from scoring them up.

Got a free 40 HP engine from a friend who was upgrading to a 1600cc. One of the pistons had been replaced due to having a hole blown thru it, but the replacement had not been balanced to the rest of the pistons. This resulted in a lot more engine vibration, so much so that if one did not tighten down engine tin screws every 500 miles or less the screws and even small tin pieces would vanish. Tore it down to short block to balance the all the pistons together, and went ahead to replace the rod bearings that had some 30,000 miles on them. The old rod bearings were scored up. Put the engine back together and got another 10,000 miles before the crankshaft broke due to having been ground incorrectly with sharp 90 degree angle instead of 1/8" radius where the bearing journals met at the crank webs. While stripping down the engine, found the rod bearing with 10,000 miles with the oil filter pump had no debris damage. Matter of fact they still looked like new except for ever so slight of polish on the hearing halves in the pull/push direction of the pistons.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[TheRide]

I have heard it said that the motor runs hotter because the drivers side cylinder head heats the filter up, but I don't have one so I don't know if this is true.

[Eric&Barb]

[TheRide]

[Tvättbjörn]