Dropping engine/trans--now shift rod set screw no longer stuck

[brownbus2]

Silly question of the day:

When removing the engine/trans as a whole, is it required to remove
the starter?

Or just the wiring to the starter?
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formerly known as Brown_Bus
1976 FI Marino Yellow Westy

[airschooled]

I do it because it makes the 15mm transmission carrier bolts easier to access on a late bay. It’s also easier to eyeball center and balance on a floor jack, if you use one to remove the combo.

Robbie
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[brownbus2]

gotcha! As this is my first drop, accessing the carrier bolts in an easier way is a plus.

The starter needs some cleaning anyway.

Using an atv jack to drop them both.

Thanks!
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formerly known as Brown_Bus
1976 FI Marino Yellow Westy

[Wildthings]

I always remove the starter as I almost always pull the engine without the tranny, it's just one more fastener to remove before the engine pull so only takes seconds to do.

Maybe take a picture of the wires on the solenoid and get a count of the number of wires on the big lug so everything goes back together as smoothly as possible.

[brownbus2]

any trick to getting that top bolt off (the one accessed from the engine compartment). The nut is stuck. I cant see the bolt end as it is above the starter to but a wrench on that end.

I guess I can squirt some PB blaster on it.

At this point it may be easier to just feel my way to the carrier bolts with the starter on.

who here has left the starter on when removing the combo? Any tips? other than removing the starter:)
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formerly known as Brown_Bus
1976 FI Marino Yellow Westy

[pioneer1]

The top bolt has a nut on the engine side . Remove that and push the bolt thru
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"Always waiting for tomorrow ruined everything"

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[Wildthings]

[brownbus2]

got it out!

I was able to wedge the head of that bolt somehow on the starter side.

As long as the bolt doesnt push back out of the engine compartment while you are loosening, it will stay wedged allowing the nut to come off and now spin with the bolt.

Seeing how much more accessible the carrier bolts will now be, I am glad I stuck it out and removed the starter.

Speaking of starters. mine has a part # that isnt one of the three referenced in the Bentley.

0 001 211 221
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formerly known as Brown_Bus
1976 FI Marino Yellow Westy

[kreemoweet]

Bosch #0 001 211 221 is the starter used with 091 trans:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8521758#8521758
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[Wildthings]

[brownbus2]

That clutch cable wingnut will not budge. Ratwell says not to let the cable twist. It is twisting if I try to get it off. with some pliers I gripped the non-threaded area to try to hold it straight, but still wing-nut no move.

It does not have the slot for a screw driver. liquid-wrenched it...letting it sit for a bit.

The simplest parts have been the hardest with this
_________________
formerly known as Brown_Bus
1976 FI Marino Yellow Westy

[Wildthings]

[Abscate]

10-15 seconds of a small propane flame , then let it cool off.

That will get things moving.
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.ssS!

[aeromech]

I always use some small vise grips to hold the cable from turning while adjusting the wing nut. This is on the forward side of the lever. Not actually on any threads
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[busdaddy]

The nut has wedges on it's taper that hold it from turning in the lever, sure you aren't feeling that?, the first few turns sort of go bump bump bump in a springy way until the cable loosens up.

Vise grips on the smooth part of the cable end and maybe a second pair on the nut's wings if it's stuck to the threads. Worst case scenario cut the cable, but keep both 1/2's so you can make sure the new one is the correct length.
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[brownbus2]

I just cut it.

Surprised how the cables get frayed seeing how it took the big tin snips to cut it.

Morning chores done...time to drop the combo. wish me luck.
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formerly known as Brown_Bus
1976 FI Marino Yellow Westy

[Wildthings]

Before ordering a new cable make sure the little lever on the front end of the cable doesn't need to be replaced (they vary by year as does the cable) and that the bowden tube is in good enough shape to reuse. Take a picture of the little lever before removing it from its shaft. As its orientation isn't all that intuitive.

As mentioned keep the pieces of your old cable so that you can compare it to the new one.

[brownbus2]

The squarehead set screw will not come out.

Ratwell says use a 10mm socket. 10mm is too big on mine 8 is too small as is 9mm...very odd.

Is there a trick to this? do I have a PO hack? I did cut the wire.

_________________
formerly known as Brown_Bus
1976 FI Marino Yellow Westy

[busdaddy]

Use a 8mm or 5/16" open end wrench from the side.
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[brownbus2]

gotcha! I actually did think of trying 5/16'' in case a PO had used a sae screw.

How much 'pressure' can I put on it while wrenching it before damaging the rod?

A lot of these bolts on this job were really stuck. As you can see in the images, its been a while since its been removed or cleaned etc.



Does it need to be in 3rd to removed the bolt?

and 2nd to disconnect the coupling form the inner rod?

Thanks!
_________________
formerly known as Brown_Bus
1976 FI Marino Yellow Westy