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GoWesty starter vs. a cheap one.
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Ahwahnee
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SteelB12 wrote:
So swapping out the starter is a pretty simple process??


Well, I wouldn't want my mother-in-law to try it but yeah, pretty straight-forward.

thatvwbusguy wrote:
...You will need an allen socket (6mm I think) for the top bolt, so if you don't have that, a trip to the tool store is going to be necessary...


It's been quite a few years, but I was thinking that it was 8mm (or 5/16" in a pinch). I'd say -- check before buying.
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16CVs Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2014 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spent this morning putting a Diesel starter and adapter in my 2.2 Subaru powered Syncro. 3 hours on a lift ,by the time we pulled the diff lock actuator ,right side drive axle and dash light switch and modified the Servo bracket.
I also opted for a "Thatvwsguy" relay and fuse kit since I had to buy the special solenoid plug from him anyway. He made up a special harness that was plug and play and beautifully done ,looks like Factory VW, that nice ! ! !
All in all a nice upgrade ,I can not imagine doing it on the ground which I have done to a Syncro a few times before.
My advice is to check your ground strap from the transmission nose to the body before doing anything. I have replaced my ground strap as well and now with diesel starter and a soleniod ,this thing pops right up with the tap of a key.
Not a cheap venture ,with all the little pieces to get to the best end ,over $300.00 in parts alone. But as another lister says Syncro starts with $ .

Stacy
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Franagon
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2021 11:19 am    Post subject: Re: GoWesty starter vs. a cheap one. Reply with quote

Hello gang, Thought I would ping this post. Starter itself seems good and the adaptor idea looks straightforward. I like the idea of having support anywhere if the thing pukes for some reason. One main question for this group: How did this starter effect your ignition switch? Does the higher 'power' starter put more juice to the ignition switch? I just don't really know. I have heard, and have a spare, but want to get back going as best as possible without fooling with other issues a starter like this could bring. Also a report out of the longevity to some of you post-ers on this one. Thanks all!
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?Waldo?
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2021 1:59 pm    Post subject: Re: GoWesty starter vs. a cheap one. Reply with quote

The current for the starter motor does *not* pass through the ignition switch. It passes through the high current path of the starter solenoid. The current to activate the solenoid is what passes through the ignition switch and is going to be fairly similar between different starter models regardless of the power requirements of the starter motor itself.

Swapping to the TDI starter with adapter plate will not increase the load on the ignition switch.
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Franagon
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 7:51 am    Post subject: Re: GoWesty starter vs. a cheap one. Reply with quote

Thanks! Good clarification! Thanks for the reply.
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Californio
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 8:56 am    Post subject: Re: GoWesty starter vs. a cheap one. Reply with quote

I converted mine to the TDI starter + adapter plate 10 years ago, no problems since then except once the wire connector broke.
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pdm777
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2021 1:45 pm    Post subject: Re: GoWesty starter vs. a cheap one. Reply with quote

Been running the GoWesty reduction starter since 2014.
NO problems.

Easy install on 2WD. 30 minutes.
Open the engine hatch and it's right there.

Good time to clean all the wiring contacts
and check ground strap.
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2021 4:31 pm    Post subject: Re: GoWesty starter vs. a cheap one. Reply with quote

Quote:
and check ground strap

...for it’s capacity to carry starter current.

A good way to test this is to put a voltmeter from the starter bolt to chassis ground while someone is cranking the starter.

If you find a voltage from starter to chassis that means your ground circuit has resistance under demand. The ground at the front of the transaxle crosses up to five 30-year-old outdoor interfaces that cannot be cleaned. Only the last connection, where the ground strap attaches, can be checked and cleaned.

You’d probe the starter case/ground from inside the engine compartment and you’d need a shiny chassis ground (not the engine). If theres any “volts” your starter ground path is compromised.

It has to be done while cranking for two reasons.

1) the high amperage draw. The ground could be low-resistance while passing voltmeter battery current (milli amps), but high Under 150 amps draw

2) because the transmission shafts are turning. When turning, the bearings are suspended in gear oil and they might not pass enough current to crank the starter strongly, which could show up on the volt meter. Keep in mind that the 150 amps could be grounding thru the R&P, which is not turning.

Anyway if you don’t verify your ground you’re inclined to condemn or even buy a more powerful starter. Which could be fun, but perhaps not the solution you need at the moment. Or worse, it could be pitting your transaxle bearings, causing big hairdos on the drain magnet. Maybe wheel bearings, CVs too, and melting the plastic off yout parking brake cables.

Far better is to add a proper inspectable ground directly from the starter bolt to the chassis like all other vehicles have. ($15)
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Last edited by Sodo on Fri Mar 26, 2021 10:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
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jberger
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2021 8:15 pm    Post subject: Re: GoWesty starter vs. a cheap one. Reply with quote

Having installed the GW Gear reduction starter and others.. I'm not sure why anyone is buying them. There were two different vanagon starters offered.. someone will correct me but the "option" is the higher KW unit at 1.0 or so. This unit has spun my 2.4 with 10.5:1 compression happily for years. YMMV

J
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