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$52 for wheel bearings?! No thanks....
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SouthernYankee
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 11:57 am    Post subject: $52 for wheel bearings?! No thanks.... Reply with quote

Went to my local import shop to get a wheel bearing. Dont know if I need an inner or an outer, just know my wheel is frozen. Have a feeling it's an outer. Anyhow, they said it would be $52 something for the inner and outer. I left there, looked online, sure enough, about $7 is about the going rate per bearing.

Now, dont the watercooled VWs share a front wheel bearing with a 65? I think it's the outer, but I'm not 100% sure.

If anyone can confirm this, that would be great. The local PepBoys has those for about $5 a hit.
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oc63rag
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wolfsburg West has them for $30 each. This should be at the high end for a German one.
http://www.wolfsBURGWEST.COM/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111405625A
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SouthernYankee
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damnation, $30 for a bearing?

Well, what about the outer, are they the same as the A3 Jetta's and Golf's?
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beetle wheel bearings aren't even close in design to any FWD bearing on any car.

Make sure you are comparing similar products, not just price. I bet the $7 bearings are made in China. If so they are JUNK!!!! Get any bearing made in a G8 country.
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k29349@yahoo
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bruce wrote:
Beetle wheel bearings aren't even close in design to any FWD bearing on any car.

Make sure you are comparing similar products, not just price. I bet the $7 bearings are made in China. If so they are JUNK!!!! Get any bearing made in a G8 country.


This is true! Try to get good name brand ones like SKF or FAG or TIMKEN. If your outer is frozen, you need to go ahead and replace both bearings. Don't try to cheat and just replace the bearing and not the race. If you do, you will have to do the job again in no time. You usually get what you pay for when it comes to bearings.
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k29349@yahoo
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lol ! It won't let me say F.A.G.
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bill may
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2004 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i going to ask anyway... have you been driving this car recently? if it has been sitting it is usually rust between drum and brake shoes that wont let wheels turn. if it was sitting take off hubcap and use a hammer to bang on lugnuts like you are driving a nail(not side to side) and see if wheel will turn. otherwise if not this then remove the bearings and races and find the numbers stamped on races and take these numbers to a bearing dealer and have them check numbers.. usually cheaper this way.
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drock
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2004 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ditto to Bill May's post. A good mechanic told me the safest way to hit the lug nuts is with a socket on the nut. That way if you don't hit it square on the head you won't mess up the nut.

Dave
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hsosa1
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 7:11 am    Post subject: Race removal Reply with quote

bill may wrote:
i going to ask anyway... have you been driving this car recently? if it has been sitting it is usually rust between drum and brake shoes that wont let wheels turn. if it was sitting take off hubcap and use a hammer to bang on lugnuts like you are driving a nail(not side to side) and see if wheel will turn. otherwise if not this then remove the bearings and races and find the numbers stamped on races and take these numbers to a bearing dealer and have them check numbers.. usually cheaper this way.
how do you remove the inner race. on the frot drum I go the outer race out with a press. I can't find a driver to get the inner race out thanks
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Busstom
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 2:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Race removal Reply with quote

hsosa1 wrote:
how do you remove the inner race. on the frot drum I go the outer race out with a press. I can't find a driver to get the inner race out thanks

I usually use a drift (drift punch), even though it's not technically a "punch" or designed for such (it's actually designed for aligning bolt or rivet holes). They're made of the same material as a punch, and have the same warnings as a punch, because they know that people will be using it as a punch. Tap a bit on this side, then a bit on that side, then a bit on this side, then a bit on that side, and so on. You can even go round-and-round if the casting will allow such access.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2021 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bill may wrote:
if it was sitting take off hubcap and use a hammer to bang on lugnuts like you are driving a nail(not side to side) and see if wheel will turn.


Much better and lots easier to remove one lug bolt each side of each drum. Then slide a long punch or very large long nail or a steel rod, and hammer that against the spine of the brake shoe. Having directly vibrated each shoe it will pop loose in no time.
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