Tutorial for (door buzzer) stereo switch FAQ

[dlreed.uf]

Thanks Telford Dorr. I think I got it. Will give it a try and update.

[vwwestyman]

For '75 and up switches, the power to radio "turn on" is super simple, when you put the key in the ignition, power is provided to that door buzzer wire, which can easily be tapped to tell the radio to turn on.

(Side note: When wiring up a stereo, the wire that is said to be for the clock/memory actually powers everything. The "accessory" wire is just a signal to tell the radio to turn on. So you don't really need to mess with a relay in later bus installs.)

For earlier buses, the key provides a ground signal rather than a power signal. In this case, a relay must be used. You use the key in ground wire to provide the ground side of the relay coil and send power to the radio. See this thread for how I did it in my '73.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=649658

I have had some problems with ignition switches in my '78. I recently replaced it with a "German" one because I was having to wiggle the wires as was mentioned earlier in this thread. With the new switch, the Bus would start with the wire-wiggle method, but the radio didn't turn on anymore!

After some experimenting, I figured out that the key wasn't quite pushing the plunger in the switch far enough to reliably provide power to that wire. I fixed the problem by clipping a bit of plastic off a zip-tie and putting it in the switch, to "preload" the plunger just a bit, and give the key something to push on.
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[ivwshane]

I just found this mod and I have a few questions.

Just for clarity, I put a spade connector on my radios signal wire (mine is yellow I believe), and then I will simply put the spade connector into the buzzer relay module in the slot labeled what? In the OP’s picture I can’t tell where or what wire he’s talking about.
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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[vwwestyman]

Basically you got it.

(Sounds like you're not using the buzzer anymore.)

I don't think the slots are labeled on the fuse box. There are only two of them used for the buzzer. Just use your multimeter or test light to find the one that gets 12v when the key is inserted into the ignition switch.

The other one should get a ground when the door is open.
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[ivwshane]

I am using the buzzer still. Does this mod disable it?
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77 westy 2.0 FI
69 ghia coup 1600dp
70 single cab

[vwwestyman]

Ok..

If you want to use a buzzer, then you can't really use a spade connector on the radio wire. If you pulled the buzzer, then the easy way is a male spade on the wire, plugged into the positive side of the buzzer's female slot.

Though they are often maligned, the easiest way to do what you want, is use one of those side by side wire connectors, and just tap into the wire that goes from the ignition switch to the buzzer somewhere along the way.

There are cleaner ways to tap into the wire, but that would be by far the simplest. No offense, but I'm guessing you don't have the tools to do all that.
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[ivwshane]

[vwwestyman]

Where are you planning to put this pigtail?
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[vwwestyman]

Thinking about this a little more...

You could certainly unplug and remove the female terminal that is in the relay socket. Then, crimp on another female terminal, plus a second pigtail wire with male terminal. And plug it back into the socket. Then you can put a female terminal on the wire to the radio and plug it in. Make sure they are insulated somehow.

BUT, you'll need a female locking terminal for the socket end, otherwise you'll be frustrated when you try to put the buzzer back in, as it'll want to push the terminal out as you insert the buzzer. (You conceivably could just use some needle nose pliers or something to keep the terminal in place while you plug in the buzzer.)

If there were already some disconnect in the wire between the ignition switch and the relay socket, then you can easily put your pigtail in that place. I just don't recall there being one.

I guess you could also cut the wire and crimp in all the connectors necessary, with the pigtail. Lots of options!
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[Hamrhead]

Ok...So, I understand the hot wire stays as is. Does the switched wire also stay connected and the new wire from the buzzer terminal get spliced in to that? Reason I ask is when I first tried, I ran the switch wire straight from the buzzer terminal to the radio. It only worked with the key in and not on. As soon as I turned the key to start, the power went off. Should it? I guess my concern is with having the switch wire on fuse 11 and spliced in to the buzzer terminal wire makes fuse 11 hot with just key in the ignition. Not sure if that is how this is supposed to work?
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'78 Westfalia Deluxe - Dakota Beige
2.0 FI Converted to Carb. (for now)

[vwwestyman]

I can't tell you which fuse is involved off the top of my head.

But, on a '78, I can tell you that the hot signal should be there any time that the key is inserted into the ignition switch. In fact, as soon as the two little metal bits are separated by something (the key, end of a screw driver, popsicle stick, whatever) it should be enough to provide the 12v to the buzzer (and in this case, turn on the radio). This is the case any time the key is in there, whether the car is on or off.

If you're losing power when you turn the key, then there is probably something worn out in the switch.
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[Hamrhead]

Thank you. I thought it odd that power would drop from the buzzer when started as well and couldn’t find anything indicating whether it should or shouldn’t. I’ll add this to the winter project list.
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'78 Westfalia Deluxe - Dakota Beige
2.0 FI Converted to Carb. (for now)

[vwwestyman]

For when you get the replacement ignition switch:

I tried bunches of them and most didn't really work well/very long in the crank position, though the other functions did work. I could start the Bus by turnnig the key, while reaching under and putting some sideways pressure on the wires/plug. Of course, this was annoying.

Finally got a better quality switch so the bus starts properly again. However, the buzzer/radio switch portion didn't quite work. Seems like you had to put a little more pressure on the key to get the radio to come on, and it might not stay.

I solved that issue by snipping the end off of a zip tie, and stuck that inside the switch to sort of "pre-load" this contact and now it works perfect. It's a sort of spring-loaded plunger that is pushed by the slotted part of the ignition lock when the key is inserted.

In fact, that might solve the problem you describe. Also, perhaps a little bit of contact cleaner sprayed in there might get it working again.

The spring loaded contact is just inside of the sort of "D" shaped hole visible in these pics. (Stolen from gallery) So my fix was to just poke the piece of plastic snipped from the zip tie in that hole so that it laid flat inside.

_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing