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The Stupid Question Thread
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andrewschumi
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2021 7:53 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hi guys,
I have a twisted throttle shaft from a German solex 31pict3
Is a shaft from a German 34pict3 suitable replacement?
Here is the damaged shaft
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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VeeDubWolf
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 8:59 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

As long as the dimensions are the same, I don't see why not.
Just gotta transfer over the parts bolted onto the end of the shaft.
How'd it get all twisted? Shocked
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andrewschumi
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2021 12:15 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Four years sitting in a garage!
WD40 didn't help much. I have it soaked in oil for a day. I hope it will get unstuck.
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VeeDubWolf
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2021 2:27 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Ouch, that was really stuck!
If you have the means to do it, boiling it in oil (or water, surprisingly) may help free it up.
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 2:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Why is Copper the metal in many thread anti-seize products? I know it works but was hoping to understand why it works. Almost every other metal in common use sacrificially corrodes over copper. Then we use it on exhaust hardware that is steel and often Zinc plated steel!

I replaced the pea shooters this morning and I used it on those 6mm bolts on the clamps.
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67rustavenger Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 3:35 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

EVfun wrote:
Why is Copper the metal in many thread anti-seize products? I know it works but was hoping to understand why it works. Almost every other metal in common use sacrificially corrodes over copper. Then we use it on exhaust hardware that is steel and often Zinc plated steel!

I replaced the pea shooters this morning and I used it on those 6mm bolts on the clamps.

This sounds like a question that Ray Greenwood could field.
Problem is. I don't think he checks the "stupid question" thread.

I use the copper anti-seize stuff too. It's messy, but I have not had any issues with frozen exhaust nuts.
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AirHead1966
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 3:45 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

EVfun wrote:
Why is Copper the metal in many thread anti-seize products? I know it works but was hoping to understand why it works. Almost every other metal in common use sacrificially corrodes over copper. Then we use it on exhaust hardware that is steel and often Zinc plated steel!

I replaced the pea shooters this morning and I used it on those 6mm bolts on the clamps.


The purpose of using anti-seize compound is to coat the threads with something that would prevent corrosion and adhesion between the thread and the fastener. Copper works for that purpose. The steel threads get coated with copper and don't corrode and fuse together.
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EVfun
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 5:30 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

AirHead1966 wrote:
The purpose of using anti-seize compound is to coat the threads with something that would prevent corrosion and adhesion between the thread and the fastener. Copper works for that purpose. The steel threads get coated with copper and don't corrode and fuse together.

That cuts to the heart of my question... Why does copper prevent corrosion? Between any 2 metals you have a battery. We put Zinc on Iron because that Zinc plating sacrifices itself to prevent the Iron from rusting. The Zinc is more electronegative. Zinc anodes are used on ships to sacrifice that over the steel hull. Yet, we use Copper in anti-seize. It is more positive than many metals we use and so tends to be the one that does not corrode, even while increasing the tendency of metals it touches to corrode.

I agree with you that it works. I use it too -- but using copper for this seems (to me) counterintuitive.
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AirHead1966
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 7:14 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

EVfun wrote:


We put Zinc on Iron because that Zinc plating sacrifices itself to prevent the Iron from rusting. The Zinc is more electronegative. Zinc anodes are used on ships to sacrifice that over the steel hull. Yet, we use Copper in anti-seize. It is more positive than many metals we use and so tends to be the one that does not corrode, even while increasing the tendency of metals it touches to corrode.


I think copper is preferred because it can withstand higher temperatures while maintaining its antiseize property. Copper antiseize is effective until up to 1800 C degrees where as zinc antiseize is effective until 750 degrees C.
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bergfan
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 10:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

And to make it more interesting, there is a silver anti - seize for stainless fasteners to stop the threads from galling
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kirk1015
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 13, 2021 8:32 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I have an off brand "Yellow" coil in my car now. Acel is the brand name I believe.
Also have a blue coil in my basement that I have yet to install. There is nothing wrong with the one I have. I want to change it because of looks. Trying to get back to the original look as possible.

I searched the classifieds and found this one.
Anyone ever used this one and should it be ok for my stock 1600DP Super?


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2404790
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bergfan
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 14, 2021 11:54 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

I there any way of swapping out the push rod tube seals without removing the cyl. Heads
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 7:28 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

bergfan wrote:
I there any way of swapping out the push rod tube seals without removing the cyl. Heads


Two ways:
1. Tap the cylinder heads away an inch - keeping the cylinders in place on the case - and install new pushrod seals (stretch the tubes a little).

2. Install spring-loaded pushrod tubes. Get a high quality set, metal, not plastic. Easier.
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Toasty
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2021 11:50 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

are wires supposed to run behind the firwall insulation? Asking for a ......well you know.
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2021 6:52 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Toasty wrote:
are wires supposed to run behind the firwall insulation? Asking for a ......well you know.

Wires for the tail light assemblies and license plate light? Yes, under the tar boards.
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kpf
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2021 7:58 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

kirk1015 wrote:
I have an off brand "Yellow" coil in my car now. Acel is the brand name I believe.
Also have a blue coil in my basement that I have yet to install. There is nothing wrong with the one I have. I want to change it because of looks. Trying to get back to the original look as possible.

I searched the classifieds and found this one.
Anyone ever used this one and should it be ok for my stock 1600DP Super?


https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2404790

Thank you for pointing that out. I didn’t know about that coil.

Another option would be to simply paint yours black. Use satin or maybe matte black.
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RockabillyFrankyDaisuke
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 8:05 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Hi everyone I have a 69 & well I really like close up pictures of a oem under the front bonnet wiring to the gauge + center knobs. Thanks gentleman
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2021 5:23 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

So I have a new (reproduction) steering wheel/horn button and a new turn signal cancelling ring. I see how they are supposed to attach together using 3 screws, but I can't figure out what that screw size should be. Unfortunately, the steering wheel and the cancelling ring didn't come with these screws. Does anyone know what size screws I need?
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2021 6:47 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Whenever I'm turning over the pulley by hand it sticks pretty hard at a certain point in the rotation. Maybe 3/4 of the way to TDC. I can figure out exactly where it is if need be.

Should it be this way?

I'm turning the alternator. Sometimes it slips as well.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2021 8:15 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

mclumber1 wrote:
So I have a new (reproduction) steering wheel/horn button and a new turn signal cancelling ring. I see how they are supposed to attach together using 3 screws, but I can't figure out what that screw size should be. Unfortunately, the steering wheel and the cancelling ring didn't come with these screws. Does anyone know what size screws I need?

3.5mm fine-pitch thread, maybe 1.00? (that's if I grabbed the right screw)

GumboSlice wrote:
Whenever I'm turning over the pulley by hand it sticks pretty hard at a certain point in the rotation. Maybe 3/4 of the way to TDC. I can figure out exactly where it is if need be.

Should it be this way?

I'm turning the alternator. Sometimes it slips as well.

Does the tight spot go away if you remove the plugs?
If not, that doesn't sound good, as there shouldn't be significant binding going on.
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