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andrewschumi Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2021 Posts: 13 Location: Cyprus
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Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2021 7:53 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Hi guys,
I have a twisted throttle shaft from a German solex 31pict3
Is a shaft from a German 34pict3 suitable replacement?
Here is the damaged shaft
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VeeDubWolf Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2010 Posts: 656 Location: Yakima, WA
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Posted: Fri Apr 02, 2021 8:59 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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As long as the dimensions are the same, I don't see why not.
Just gotta transfer over the parts bolted onto the end of the shaft.
How'd it get all twisted? _________________ Two Bugs-
'70 rust-bucket sunroof sedan
'69 PO hack-job special
-Plus a wide assortment of various parts'n'junk |
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andrewschumi Samba Member
Joined: March 28, 2021 Posts: 13 Location: Cyprus
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Posted: Sat Apr 03, 2021 12:15 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Four years sitting in a garage!
WD40 didn't help much. I have it soaked in oil for a day. I hope it will get unstuck. |
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VeeDubWolf Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2010 Posts: 656 Location: Yakima, WA
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Posted: Sat Apr 03, 2021 2:27 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Ouch, that was really stuck!
If you have the means to do it, boiling it in oil (or water, surprisingly) may help free it up. _________________ Two Bugs-
'70 rust-bucket sunroof sedan
'69 PO hack-job special
-Plus a wide assortment of various parts'n'junk |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5446 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 2:52 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Why is Copper the metal in many thread anti-seize products? I know it works but was hoping to understand why it works. Almost every other metal in common use sacrificially corrodes over copper. Then we use it on exhaust hardware that is steel and often Zinc plated steel!
I replaced the pea shooters this morning and I used it on those 6mm bolts on the clamps. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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67rustavenger Samba Member
Joined: February 24, 2015 Posts: 9665 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 3:35 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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EVfun wrote: |
Why is Copper the metal in many thread anti-seize products? I know it works but was hoping to understand why it works. Almost every other metal in common use sacrificially corrodes over copper. Then we use it on exhaust hardware that is steel and often Zinc plated steel!
I replaced the pea shooters this morning and I used it on those 6mm bolts on the clamps. |
This sounds like a question that Ray Greenwood could field.
Problem is. I don't think he checks the "stupid question" thread.
I use the copper anti-seize stuff too. It's messy, but I have not had any issues with frozen exhaust nuts. _________________ I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!
There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo! |
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AirHead1966 Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2019 Posts: 561 Location: Triad Area NC
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Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 3:45 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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EVfun wrote: |
Why is Copper the metal in many thread anti-seize products? I know it works but was hoping to understand why it works. Almost every other metal in common use sacrificially corrodes over copper. Then we use it on exhaust hardware that is steel and often Zinc plated steel!
I replaced the pea shooters this morning and I used it on those 6mm bolts on the clamps. |
The purpose of using anti-seize compound is to coat the threads with something that would prevent corrosion and adhesion between the thread and the fastener. Copper works for that purpose. The steel threads get coated with copper and don't corrode and fuse together. |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5446 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 5:30 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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AirHead1966 wrote: |
The purpose of using anti-seize compound is to coat the threads with something that would prevent corrosion and adhesion between the thread and the fastener. Copper works for that purpose. The steel threads get coated with copper and don't corrode and fuse together. |
That cuts to the heart of my question... Why does copper prevent corrosion? Between any 2 metals you have a battery. We put Zinc on Iron because that Zinc plating sacrifices itself to prevent the Iron from rusting. The Zinc is more electronegative. Zinc anodes are used on ships to sacrifice that over the steel hull. Yet, we use Copper in anti-seize. It is more positive than many metals we use and so tends to be the one that does not corrode, even while increasing the tendency of metals it touches to corrode.
I agree with you that it works. I use it too -- but using copper for this seems (to me) counterintuitive. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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AirHead1966 Samba Member
Joined: October 17, 2019 Posts: 561 Location: Triad Area NC
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Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 7:14 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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EVfun wrote: |
We put Zinc on Iron because that Zinc plating sacrifices itself to prevent the Iron from rusting. The Zinc is more electronegative. Zinc anodes are used on ships to sacrifice that over the steel hull. Yet, we use Copper in anti-seize. It is more positive than many metals we use and so tends to be the one that does not corrode, even while increasing the tendency of metals it touches to corrode. |
I think copper is preferred because it can withstand higher temperatures while maintaining its antiseize property. Copper antiseize is effective until up to 1800 C degrees where as zinc antiseize is effective until 750 degrees C. |
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bergfan Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2007 Posts: 150 Location: NewZealand
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Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2021 10:52 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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And to make it more interesting, there is a silver anti - seize for stainless fasteners to stop the threads from galling |
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kirk1015 Samba Member
Joined: June 15, 2015 Posts: 281 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2021 8:32 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I have an off brand "Yellow" coil in my car now. Acel is the brand name I believe.
Also have a blue coil in my basement that I have yet to install. There is nothing wrong with the one I have. I want to change it because of looks. Trying to get back to the original look as possible.
I searched the classifieds and found this one.
Anyone ever used this one and should it be ok for my stock 1600DP Super?
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2404790 _________________ Jim Douglas....I am Not. |
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bergfan Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2007 Posts: 150 Location: NewZealand
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Posted: Wed Apr 14, 2021 11:54 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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I there any way of swapping out the push rod tube seals without removing the cyl. Heads |
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31270 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 7:28 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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bergfan wrote: |
I there any way of swapping out the push rod tube seals without removing the cyl. Heads |
Two ways:
1. Tap the cylinder heads away an inch - keeping the cylinders in place on the case - and install new pushrod seals (stretch the tubes a little).
2. Install spring-loaded pushrod tubes. Get a high quality set, metal, not plastic. Easier. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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Toasty Samba Member
Joined: November 06, 2020 Posts: 11 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Sat Apr 17, 2021 11:50 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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are wires supposed to run behind the firwall insulation? Asking for a ......well you know. |
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31270 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2021 6:52 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Toasty wrote: |
are wires supposed to run behind the firwall insulation? Asking for a ......well you know. |
Wires for the tail light assemblies and license plate light? Yes, under the tar boards. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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kpf Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2017 Posts: 847 Location: California, US
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Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2021 7:58 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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kirk1015 wrote: |
I have an off brand "Yellow" coil in my car now. Acel is the brand name I believe.
Also have a blue coil in my basement that I have yet to install. There is nothing wrong with the one I have. I want to change it because of looks. Trying to get back to the original look as possible.
I searched the classifieds and found this one.
Anyone ever used this one and should it be ok for my stock 1600DP Super?
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2404790 |
Thank you for pointing that out. I didn’t know about that coil.
Another option would be to simply paint yours black. Use satin or maybe matte black. _________________ 1971 Super Beetle |
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RockabillyFrankyDaisuke Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2021 Posts: 1 Location: SoCal
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Posted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 8:05 am Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Hi everyone I have a 69 & well I really like close up pictures of a oem under the front bonnet wiring to the gauge + center knobs. Thanks gentleman |
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mclumber1 Samba Member
Joined: June 22, 2008 Posts: 313 Location: Henderson, NV
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Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2021 5:23 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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So I have a new (reproduction) steering wheel/horn button and a new turn signal cancelling ring. I see how they are supposed to attach together using 3 screws, but I can't figure out what that screw size should be. Unfortunately, the steering wheel and the cancelling ring didn't come with these screws. Does anyone know what size screws I need? _________________ 1968 Beetle |
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GumboSlice Samba Member
Joined: April 25, 2021 Posts: 3
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Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2021 6:47 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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Whenever I'm turning over the pulley by hand it sticks pretty hard at a certain point in the rotation. Maybe 3/4 of the way to TDC. I can figure out exactly where it is if need be.
Should it be this way?
I'm turning the alternator. Sometimes it slips as well. |
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VeeDubWolf Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2010 Posts: 656 Location: Yakima, WA
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Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2021 8:15 pm Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread |
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mclumber1 wrote: |
So I have a new (reproduction) steering wheel/horn button and a new turn signal cancelling ring. I see how they are supposed to attach together using 3 screws, but I can't figure out what that screw size should be. Unfortunately, the steering wheel and the cancelling ring didn't come with these screws. Does anyone know what size screws I need? |
3.5mm fine-pitch thread, maybe 1.00? (that's if I grabbed the right screw)
GumboSlice wrote: |
Whenever I'm turning over the pulley by hand it sticks pretty hard at a certain point in the rotation. Maybe 3/4 of the way to TDC. I can figure out exactly where it is if need be.
Should it be this way?
I'm turning the alternator. Sometimes it slips as well. |
Does the tight spot go away if you remove the plugs?
If not, that doesn't sound good, as there shouldn't be significant binding going on. _________________ Two Bugs-
'70 rust-bucket sunroof sedan
'69 PO hack-job special
-Plus a wide assortment of various parts'n'junk |
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